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Car dies between shifts.. Possible alternator problem

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crazyquik22023

10+ Year Contributor
641
6
Sep 14, 2008
Akron, Ohio
I am having a problem where my car wants to die between shifts. If i shift and let off the gas for more than a second the car will die. The car idles perfect, ISC is good and no leaks anywhere. I just replaced the alternator a few days ago and the belt could possibly be a little bit loose but would this cause the car to die between shifts? The alternator also isn't charging the battery past 12.5 volts. I am hoping its because the belt is loose. I haven't been driving the car and I'm going to tighten the belt tomorrow, I'm just wondering if you think that a loose belt or bad charging alternator would cause the car to die between shifts. I think its a good chance that's the problem what do you guys think? Thanks
 
Take the ground off the battery during idle..If the car dies then it's a alternator problem..A battery should in theory only charge to 12.2 volts If I remember corectly..So 12.5 isn't that much overcharged..On a load the battery charges at over 14 volts, which is normal..So try that and post back up when you get the results..
 
Take the ground off the battery during idle..If the car dies then it's a alternator problem..A battery should in theory only charge to 12.2 volts If I remember corectly..So 12.5 isn't that much overcharged..On a load the battery charges at over 14 volts, which is normal..So try that and post back up when you get the results..

The battery will only charge to 12.5 volts while under a load. I know that my alternator belt is loose and not charging the battery as much as it should as stated above. I'm not trying to find out if my alternator is bad all I'm wondering is if a bad charging alternator for whatever the reason, will cause the car to die between shifts. Also you disconnect the + battery terminal when doing this test not the ground wire. :nono:
 
Also you disconnect the + battery terminal when doing this test not the ground wire. :nono:

Everytime someone says undo this terminal someone else undo the other one..It's crazy..

Yes the battery only charges to 12.5 but doesn't the charge system show +14 volts..

You aren't running non recirculated bov are you..That should help narrow it down..
 
Everytime someone says undo this terminal someone else undo the other one..It's crazy..

Yes the battery only charges to 12.5 but doesn't the charge system show +14 volts..

You aren't running non recirculated bov are you..That should help narrow it down..

Yes my bov is recirculated and this happens all of the time. The engine has less than 100 miles on it, the car idles fine and has no leaks. I just replaced the ISC and o-ring, both TB gaskets, BISS screw & o-ring. The ECU is also very new. I got it from ECMTuning about 1 year ago. I also have Dsmlink v3. Also I haven't tested the voltage from the alternator yet, but I did have the alternator tested right before I put it on and it tested fine.
 
Sounds to me that you are running too rich between shifts. If the alternator wasnt charging to its full potential the car would not shut off between shifts unless the battery was bad. If that was the case then the car would not start back up without a jump or charged battery.
 
Damm, so what the hell could it be then..Have you double checked your connections just to make sure there all tight..I'd be pretty sick of the car dying all the time..

ya all of the connections are tight, again I'm not trying to really figure out why my car is dying yet. I'm just wondering if it could be the alternator not charging causing it do die between shifts. If this is the problem I will be able to fix it easily, if not then ill start searching for what the actual problem is. Thanks for the input though
 
ya all of the connections are tight, again I'm not trying to really figure out why my car is dying yet. I'm just wondering if it could be the alternator not charging causing it do die between shifts. If this is the problem I will be able to fix it easily, if not then ill start searching for what the actual problem is. Thanks for the input though

Not the alternator would not cause this.
 
does it happen if you're at a standstill idling, rev up and let it drop down? Or, only when there's a load?
 
Do you have a MAFT? Do you have an aftermarket MAF? Where did you get the altinator? My car used to die while driving w/ the clutch in due to a bad NEW altinator that was less than a week old. It's very common for DSM's to have bad diodes in our rebuilt altinators. They will test good, but won't charge properly. Possibly a bad battery as cars tend to under rev when you let off the gas or push in the clutch and the altinator doesn't charge enough to help the car get back up to idol. But first things first, tighten the belt up and check to see why your getting a plug #3 misfire code. Get back at me with any details and good luck!!!!!
 
Do you have a MAFT? Do you have an aftermarket MAF? Where did you get the altinator? My car used to die while driving w/ the clutch in due to a bad NEW altinator that was less than a week old. It's very common for DSM's to have bad diodes in our rebuilt altinators. They will test good, but won't charge properly. Possibly a bad battery as cars tend to under rev when you let off the gas or push in the clutch and the altinator doesn't charge enough to help the car get back up to idol. But first things first, tighten the belt up and check to see why your getting a plug #3 misfire code. Get back at me with any details and good luck!!!!!

Heh weird, that's the first time I've heard of an alternator causing a stall between shifts :idontknow:.
 
It really sounds like the MAF is having problems measuring the actual airflow.
I agree. It might not necessarily mean the MAF is bad either, is there any chance you've got a FP 4" intake on the car?

:dsm:
 
I am using a Dejon 4" intake with a 2g MAF. I don't have a MAFT. The alternator is a used OEM alternator w/ 60k miles on it, never rebuilt, tested good, battery is brand new, tested good. Im going to tighten the belt up and post back.
 
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