Car dies between shifts.. Possible alternator problem

[crazyquik22023]

I am having a problem where my car wants to die between shifts. If i shift and let off the gas for more than a second the car will die. The car idles perfect, ISC is good and no leaks anywhere. I just replaced the alternator a few days ago and the belt could possibly be a little bit loose but would this cause the car to die between shifts? The alternator also isn't charging the battery past 12.5 volts. I am hoping its because the belt is loose. I haven't been driving the car and I'm going to tighten the belt tomorrow, I'm just wondering if you think that a loose belt or bad charging alternator would cause the car to die between shifts. I think its a good chance that's the problem what do you guys think? Thanks

 

[gofer]

@crazyquik Who cares if its bad!!! Upgrades are never frowned upon

Upgrades may not be frowned upon but spending money when it isn't necessary is a waste.

Crazyquik, post a 3 minute log of your car idling once it gets up to operating temp. The Idle Clamp feature only works as good as your tune, if you MAFComp sliders aren't properly adjusted then its not going to be very effective. I want to see your CombinedFT and AirflowPerRev readings at idle...

 

[ExpresS]

Damnit i'm waiting for my 1g MAF terminal to come in so i can hook up my GM-MAF-T. I think my 2g MAF was causing the same problem as yours. Tommorow i should have it.

 

[crazyquik22023]

Gofer, I will post a 3 min log of idle. I've tried to adjust the MAF Comp sliders to get an airflowperrev of .25gm/rev. I've adjusted the 0 & 50hz sliders down but I still can't get my airflowperrevs to .25. They are higher. I think I need to do an ECU-Reset Fuel Trims. I'll post a log back soon.

Here is a 3 min idle log... kind of.... my throttle position would not go to 0%. When it does go to 0% my car wants to die. My throttle cable is not too tight. Anyway here is this messed up log. If anybody has any ideas let me know..

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[crazyquik22023]

Any ideas?

 

[yoshi_tony]

you should ask a friend or someone near you with a MAF that you can test or borrow see if yours is good =] i think i saw about a year ago what are the volts/ohmn of the maf should be and from the hardness see if i can find the link

 

[crazyquik22023]

Honestly I don't see any signs or any reason (minus my car running like crap) to lead me to believe my MAF is bad. I'm looking more now for advice on tuning the MAF. My airflowperrevs are much too high, and my CombinedFT's are just not correct at all. I know the correct way to compensate the MAF for the high airflow numbers but it doesn't seem to be working so I'm looking for some tuning advice in case I'm missing something.

 

[yoshi_tony]

oh alright sorry couldnt help im still learning the tuning part...goodluck hope gofer can help

 

[crazyquik22023]

Ya I'm waiting for gofer to hopefully see this post.

 

[gofer]

Sorry, I was on vacation over the weekend and only had 3G network access from my phone and couldn't check logs.

Your MAFRaw value at idle is roughly 60Hz, meaning you'd have to LOWER the 50Hz and 100Hz MAFComp sliders a considerable amount to get it to hover around 0.25 gm/rev. Once you get it at 0.25 - 0.26 gm/rev then look at your CombinedFT values being logged, adjust injector deadtimes to get them around 0%. If AirflowPerRev won't move with big MAFComp slider adjustments you need to do another BLT... I'm currently leaking air from my TB shaft seals when I check for boost leaks and still have a good 0.25 gm/rev at idle. To inflate it and making it not adjustable takes a very noticeable boost leak.

I'm not sure who tuned your fuel or timing sliders but they don't make sense, why are you pulling fuel at 2k RPM or advancing timing? You must have a fast ass spooling turbo.

 

[crazyquik22023]

I adjusted the fuel and timing sliders a while ago I don't remember why. And no I have a 6262 t4 so very slow spooling actually . I will zero the fuel and timing sliders out at the lower rpm range. I will try adjusting the MAF sliders at the 50 & 100hz levels. I definitely don't have any kind of huge boost leaks. Possibly something minimal like shaft seals, etc, but that shouldn't make a difference like you said. Thanks for the reply I will check back sometime soon.

 

[ExpresS]

How's your tps %? Are you getting any DTC's?

 

[crazyquik22023]

How's your tps %? Are you getting any DTC's?

No DTC's the throttle position you can see from my last log. I haven't changed anything since then. I am going to try some things tom. morning and I will post a new log.

 

[crazyquik22023]

Here is a log. I'm getting really pissed off. I can't figure out what the problem is with thing. If anybody has any ideas I can pay pal you some money for some serious help. The car ran fine before I got my new engine. The engine is the same type of engine. 2.0 L. The only thing that was changed after the engine was put in was a 1g T.B. and 1g intake manifold. Everything else is the exact same. I don't know I'm lost. Here's the log. Car idles like crap Combined FT's are at like +20%, car still dies when revved and I let off the throttle.

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[gofer]

I'm assuming you have an ECMLink account, try reading through the thread below and see if you can find something you haven't tried yet?
Car dies when revs drop from 3k or higher

Once again, I'm at work so I can't look at your log but I can't remember ever having you verify if you had your idle switch signal simulated or not in ECMLink?

 

[crazyquik22023]

I'm assuming you have an ECMLink account, try reading through the thread below and see if you can find something you haven't tried yet?
Car dies when revs drop from 3k or higher

Once again, I'm at work so I can't look at your log but I can't remember ever having you verify if you had your idle switch signal simulated or not in ECMLink?

Gofer, I actually don't have an ecmlink account and yes my idle switch is simulated. One thing I noticed that is weird is I adjust my TPS with the car off and it reads .65v and 0% but when I start it and rev it a few times it stays at like 1-2% and .71-.73 volts when at idle??

 

[gofer]

How can you own ECMLink and not have an account, thats the best part about having the software and chip because the customer service is outstanding. This issue would have been resolved the same day you posted it over there since the guys that engineered it, Tom and Dave, are lurking the forum 12 hours a day.

• Check the spring and throttle cable when it gets stuck from 0.63v to 0.71v like you described, I've seen those throttle plate springs get old and not close all the way. Also, check the tension on the cable itself as you might just need to loosen those (2) 10mm bolts on the IM and loosen it up a bit.
• ZERO your MAFComp sliders.
• Change your injector globals to -55% to reflect a 1000cc injector, I don't care what you found on the Wiki for base injector data.
• Adjust your BISS to get your logged ISCPosition down to 30-.
• Change your OpenLoopMaxOctane DA table to 14.7:1 (stock values) at idle, this shouldn't fix the problem you're having now but whoever changed your idle AFR's did so for no reason. Below you'll notice two highlighted cells in the DA map, those reflect what your ECU's target fuel trims would be if you were in open loop. Why does it make any sense to change these from stock?

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Not sure if you posted the right log here but I see you revving the motor up and the car never dies. Do the above and post another log, preferably with the car dieing when revved up a bit.

 

[crazyquik22023]

How can you own ECMLink and not have an account, thats the best part about having the software and chip because the customer service is outstanding. This issue would have been resolved the same day you posted it over there since the guys that engineered it, Tom and Dave, are lurking the forum 12 hours a day.

• Check the spring and throttle cable when it gets stuck from 0.63v to 0.71v like you described, I've seen those throttle plate springs get old and not close all the way. Also, check the tension on the cable itself as you might just need to loosen those (2) 10mm bolts on the IM and loosen it up a bit.
• Change your injector globals to -55% to reflect a 1000cc injector, I don't care what you found on the Wiki for base injector data.
• Adjust your BISS to get your logged ISCPosition down to 30-.
• Change your OpenLoopMaxOctane DA table to 14.7:1 at idle, this shouldn't fix the problem you're having now but whoever changed your idle AFR's did so for no reason. Below you'll notice two highlighted cells in the DA map, those reflect what your ECU's target fuel trims would be if you were in open loop. Why does it make any sense to change these from stock?

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Not sure if you posted the right log here but I see you revving the motor up and the car never dies.

ya I know I should have a ecmlink account. I requested one when I got my dsmlink but Tom never made me one and I haven't signed up for one yet. I'll get around to it though. The car didn't die because I was giving it gas to keep it from dying. I will change those in the cells in the DA map right now. I also had the global at -55% and just changed it to -51% in this most recent log to see if that would help at all. I changed it back to -55 right after. I can't get my iscposition down to 30 or else my car will die. I should mention too my car has a hard time starting also. I have to give it gas and hold it at 2000rpms for about 20 secs for it to catch idle. If I don't do that the car just dies instantly.

 

[gofer]

ACK! I know what the problem is. Your FIAV spring isn't closing the damn FIAV completely because your coolant temps are so low, allowing in access air through the TB. Follow this write-up and close the FIAV spring, 100% positive the issue will be fixed.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/391977-free-fiav-block.html

 

[crazyquik22023]

ACK! I know what the problem is. Your FIAV spring isn't closing the damn FIAV completely because your coolant temps are so low, allowing in access air through the TB. Follow this write-up and close the FIAV spring, 100% positive the issue will be fixed.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/391977-free-fiav-block.html

Sorry to burst your bubble gofer but I did the FIAV MOD a long time ago. I wish you were right about that being my problem...

 

[jen_cairo]

Whats your vauum when you cold start it...?

And do you have pics of your engine bay currently?

And is that your only code that comes up for your check engine light??

Just trying to figure out whats wrong with mine as well...

 

[crazyquik22023]

I don't get any codes when my engine is running, and my vacuum is around -15 when at idle. I can take a pic of my engine bay if you want.

 

[jen_cairo]

So I changed my oring on my biss screw, tb gaskets, intake manifold gasket, and adjusted biss and throttle cable...still same problem..
..
Then I used soapy water in a spray bottle and noticed I have a big leak at my jpipe gasket. I got my jpipe from vrs speed and the right side is a pita to tighten properly. So I put a stud in and put a nut on top. But it cam loose so I'm gonna tighten it to keep you posted...

My vacuum at idle is 10hg...maybe you have a similar problem...?

 

[gofer]

I got my jpipe from VRS speed and the right side is a pita to tighten properly. So I put a stud in and put a nut on top. But it cam loose so I'm gonna tighten it to keep you posted...

The OP has done multiple BLT's, at least thats what he's told us, so a leak at the j-pipe is more than likely not his issue.

The VRS j-pipe is a HUGE PITA to bolt up to the turbo, I 110% agree. The only way to get the j-pipe leak free is to put it on the turbo with the turbo removed from the car. You can leave the exhaust side of the turbo alone and just pull the CHRA/compressor housing by removing the oil/coolant lines and v-band clamp...

 

[jen_cairo]

Hey thanks for the great tip!

 

[dsmchevyguy]

crazyquik have you tried tightening down all your clamps all the way down from your Intake manifold?