The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

NEED HELP! Car dies between between shifts and rpms lower with clutch in

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jhonny5

Probationary Member
23
0
Jul 9, 2011
bloomington, Illinois
I'm new to this tuning troubleshooting area.

Car dies between shifts and rpms lower with clutch in. Have had a new thrust bearing installed (crankwalk)

Big 16g 272 cams
Regular maf
Recirculated bov
97 eclipse

Using apexi afcii

Info limited right now as I am at work

Help would be very much appreciated
 
I've already searched the forum there is one question like mine but the guy is using dsm link. Doesn't help me much as I can't change those settings with my controller.

Any one had any ideas??
 
So you previously had too much endplay in the crank and you replaced only the thrust bearing? When my engine walked, the crank was also junk. You probably need to replace the crank. You need to check endplay in the crank again I think.
 
The crank had been machined down a little bit by the person who had it before me. Not sure what that does performance wise. The end play was checked after bearing replacement and is fine now.

I'm pretty sure the mechanic said the crank was fine I'll double check Monday. I searched the forums and a guy had the same problem and was fixed with some settings changes in ecmlink
 
Fidanza aluminum flywheel
Act clutch 2100 I believe

A guy I'm thinking of buying ecmlink v2 from said that some timing and fuel trim tweaking could fix that. What do you guys think?
 
I raised my idle about 500 rpms and it still just drops all the way to zero between shifts. I mean I know I can keep it alive giving it gas and all but something is not right LOL it shouldn't do tht
 
Question are you still running the stock intercooling pipes or aftermarket?? reason i'm asking you may experiencing boost leak.
 
No I have A big greddy fmic. It builds boost nicely idk if I have any leaks. What's a quick way to check? I don't have the tool for it.
 
The way I tested mine was cheap but it worked. Get a PVC cap that will fit into your inlet coupler nice and snug. Drill a hole in it to put either an air coupler or other such device to insert air. In my case I drilled a hole and used a standard air nozzle the squeeze kind. If you go to autozone or advanced they carry the adjustable air pressure regulators for under $10. Set it at the desired level typically whatever your boost is set at and pressurize the system and listen for leaks. Good luck!
 
Boost leak testing is easy, but you need a compressor (or an air tank) and you have to make or buy a tester that clamps to the turbo compressor inlet. Search and you will find about the tester...pretty easy. Then look for boost leak testing threads for where leaks typically occur.
 
My 97 spyder was doing the same thing dying between shifts and when in neutral Turns out I had a torn coupler
 
Thanks guys I'll have to try those out. I'll give my couplers a look first. Honestly I don't think I'll have the time to boost leak check it myself I work everyday ridiculous hours and dnt have resources to a compressor n shit like that. The military can be a bi*** LOL. How much do mechanics charge for that?

V8 reaper - really? Cause I mean as soon as I shift Rpms drop quicker then shit it's so weird. I have a bit of idle surge also. Hopefully that's all it is. You replaced a coupler and it was all good?
 
My toms would drop from 4k to 0 almost like you cut the key off. After I replaced the coupler she runs fine but I'm looking into rebuilding the turbo due to shaft play

*rpms

Basically the mass air tells the ecu that there's x amount of air coming in so add y amount of fuel. Well it wasn't getting x amount of air but was getting y amount of fuel so fuel mileage sucked ass and it didn't run worth a damn
 
Yup same shit mine is doing I'm gna check that first an ill let you know tomorrow. Thanks everyone for the tips. Hopefully it's as simple as yours was v8 reaper thatd be a good day haha

Yup same shit mine is doing I'm gna check that first an ill let you know tomorrow. Thanks everyone for the tips. Hopefully it's as simple as yours was v8 reaper thatd be a good day haha

I have a question for you guys.

Could any mishaps in installation of the new thrust bearing cause any of these symptoms ? The car did not do this before the new bearing.
 
Ok so no boost leaks. What to do. Still same shit. I need some goooooooood trouble shooters LOL
 
Do a few right turns and see if it dies.

Incorrect its left turns not right.


Listen go and drive when you shift and change from your gear to neutral don't use the clutch just slowly let off the gas and slowly pull it to neutral if your car still dies its not clutch related.

If it doesn't die start checking for play in your harmonic balanced you may have crank walk. Same thing just happened to my 2g.


The information for testing it was not created by me someone posted a link I can't find since I'm on my phone. Credits given where its due.


Armin
 
Have someone keep the car running at around 1k rpms and check for a vacuum leak. Also check fuel pressure if possible. Possible loose coupler or hole in your intake after the MAF? Try the little stuff first and see if it's minor would be my suggestion
 
Have someone keep the car running at around 1k rpms and check for a vacuum leak. Also check fuel pressure if possible. Possible loose coupler or hole in your intake after the MAF? Try the little stuff first and see if it's minor would be my suggestion

Could be but this would be a consistant rise or drop in rpms not only when the clutch is pushed in. Air flow and fuel aren't effected by whether the clutch is pushed in or not unless im mistaken.
 
@ hypergenesis

The cars Rpms drop rapidly all the way to 0 (unless I give it gas) when I push the clutch in. Like rapid rapid not normal decel. I've had a new thrust bearing put in and there is no longer play on the crank. So I'm really lost right now. It's like it doesnt want to hold any idle between shifts.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top