Car dies between shifts.. Possible alternator problem

[crazyquik22023]

I am having a problem where my car wants to die between shifts. If i shift and let off the gas for more than a second the car will die. The car idles perfect, ISC is good and no leaks anywhere. I just replaced the alternator a few days ago and the belt could possibly be a little bit loose but would this cause the car to die between shifts? The alternator also isn't charging the battery past 12.5 volts. I am hoping its because the belt is loose. I haven't been driving the car and I'm going to tighten the belt tomorrow, I'm just wondering if you think that a loose belt or bad charging alternator would cause the car to die between shifts. I think its a good chance that's the problem what do you guys think? Thanks

 

[STLskater92]

Any updates??? Fixed the problem or not???

 

[crazyquik22023]

Ok, bringing a thread back from the dead. So I never found the solution to my problem. Couldn't get Airflowperrevs stable, idle horrible, dies when revved, etc.. So I was working on it tonight and it wouldn't hold idle for shit, jumping from 1800-2500. So I unplugged the MAF while it was idling like this and the car magically held idle perfectly at 1100 rpms with the MAF unplugged. I tried revving it to about 2500 which is all it would rev to with no MAF plugged in obviously, and it didn't die and held idle perfect. So I am getting a new MAF this week sometime. Just can't decide between a GM 3" or another 2g. I am hoping that a new MAF will fix my issue.

 

[slow4g6392tsi]

Take the ground off the battery during idle..If the car dies then it's a alternator problem..A battery should in theory only charge to 12.2 volts If I remember corectly..So 12.5 isn't that much overcharged..On a load the battery charges at over 14 volts, which is normal..So try that and post back up when you get the results..

Even when a regular battery is not hooked up, if still charged it should read no lower than 12.6 volts. Come on guys, 1.1 volts per cell, 6 cells. I have had a bad battery read still read 12.6 volts.

Ok, bringing a thread back from the dead. So I never found the solution to my problem. Couldn't get Airflowperrevs stable, idle horrible, dies when revved, etc.. So I was working on it tonight and it wouldn't hold idle for shit, jumping from 1800-2500. So I unplugged the MAF while it was idling like this and the car magically held idle perfectly at 1100 rpms with the MAF unplugged. I tried revving it to about 2500 which is all it would rev to with no MAF plugged in obviously, and it didn't die and held idle perfect. So I am getting a new MAF this week sometime. Just can't decide between a GM 3" or another 2g. I am hoping that a new MAF will fix my issue.

Oh, didn't see that. Sounds like you solved your problem

 

[jen_cairo]

Ok, bringing a thread back from the dead. So I never found the solution to my problem. Couldn't get Airflowperrevs stable, idle horrible, dies when revved, etc.. So I was working on it tonight and it wouldn't hold idle for shit, jumping from 1800-2500. So I unplugged the MAF while it was idling like this and the car magically held idle perfectly at 1100 rpms with the MAF unplugged. I tried revving it to about 2500 which is all it would rev to with no MAF plugged in obviously, and it didn't die and held idle perfect. So I am getting a new MAF this week sometime. Just can't decide between a GM 3" or another 2g. I am hoping that a new MAF will fix my issue.

Good luck!! Thats exactly what I did and no change...I tried 2 known good mafs..But I did find I had a vacuum leak at my jpipe and tightened it down, changes my biss oring and adjusted the throttle cable, all my clamps, changed my IACV even though I checked it with a volt meter and tested good, I also bought new TB gaskets and now it idles at 1100rpm and dont die...

Now my only problem is I cant get it to come down to 750rpm to hook a vacuum gauge up to time it properly...

BUt you may want to go over everything again, It took me about 2 times.
With a bottle of disaronno

 

[crazyquik22023]

Ya so my problem is not solved. I put in the new MAF today which is good. It held idle good where it should be for about 2 min at 1000 rpms. Airflowperrevs were at around 31-32. Then the car just died. I started it again and the airflowperrevs were around .19. When I changed the 50-100hz sliders in the MAFcomp nothing changed. It would not move from .19. The car would still die when you let off the gas. I couldn't even drive it back home. I had to unplug the MAF and "creep" home under 2000 rpms. With the maf unplugged the car idles and drives perfect. I'm lost as to what my problem can be. I'm going to try another BLT just for the hell of it.

UPDATE: So I got it so it doesn't die when I'm driving but it still won't idle. It will idle for about 30 seconds then die. This first log is a log of it dying right after I start it. My wideband also goes all the way lean after I let off the gas at anytime and it just stays all the way lean until I give it more gas.

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Also I should ad everytime I start the car whether hot or cold it will start idle for about 5 seconds and then die if I don't give it gas. If I give it gas for about 20 seconds or so and hold it around 2000 rpms then it will idle at 1000-1100 good. I don't know if I ever mentioned this but I also did the FIAV mod a while ago, so my car should idle at 1100 all the time, aka no high idle on cold start.

 

[boostdawd]

Dam that sucks bro!Hope you get if working good soon.My issue was very similar and I was leaning towards a bad maf but took it in to a shop instead before i lost my mind and blow it up.Tech said my caps were bad on my ecu.Ecu replaced and good as new.

 

[crazyquik22023]

In case anyone is still following this thread, my issue is finally solved. The problem turned out to me a bad MAF, small boost leak that came about while I was trying to figure out the problem, and my MAF comp needed to be adjusted. Also I was having a cylinder 3 misfire. The reason was I forgot I now have a 1g CAS, and I forgot to uncheck the cylinder misfire detection in the DTC tab. Thanks to everyone for their help especially Gofer.

 

[eclipsechris]

ive tried all that too!
still wont help
my vaccum at idle is -17
AFR is PERFECT.
if i rev to high, it drop to like 200 rpm then come to normal again,
or sometime just die.
also does that while driving, if i give it gas, then put the clutch in it stalls.
or if i dont put it in gear quick enough between shifts.

 

[LOLVTEC]

Check your bov the diaphragm could have gone bad.
Also boost leak test!

 

[bstaley]

ive tried all that too!
still wont help
my vaccum at idle is -17
AFR is PERFECT.
if i rev to high, it drop to like 200 rpm then come to normal again,
or sometime just die.
also does that while driving, if i give it gas, then put the clutch in it stalls.
or if i dont put it in gear quick enough between shifts.

Have you checked the voltage on your isc?