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Engine dies between shifts

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graf703

15+ Year Contributor
97
0
Sep 5, 2004
Minneapolis, Minnesota
So a couple of weeks ago I clutch in as i'm pulling up to a light and the car died immediately after the clutch disengaged. It dies at idle after it has been driven a little while. But on startup it'll idle for 15 mins without dying. So I reset the ecu and it helped for about 10 miles and then the same thing?? Any help?
 
mine did this for a couple of days right after i just installed some new belts, also your alternator could be going bad...
 
I had a 91 Talon AWD that did the same thing. It was caused by a bad coil in the ISC. The ISC coil resistances would test good when cold. However, if you warmed up the ISC by driving the car or heating it with a hair dryer, one the coils would test open circuit. You might want to test ISC coil resistances after the car is warmed up and stalling. Resistances between the two center pins and the pins on either sides should be 28-32 ohns when cold. However, after warmup, the resistances will be a bit higher. If one of the 4 resistances is very high (open circuit), the ISC is bad.
 
Not venting to the atmosphere.

Now I have a 2g is there anything different about the ISC in my car compared to yours? I also read about one guy that unplugged his ISC and it worked fine on a 1g.

I know that I'm supposed to check for boost leaks but everything as far as the emissions hoses check out. I haven't had the car long enough to have a base point to listen to the engine for a sucking noise. It seems to be making a lot of air noise, but it seems like its coming right from the middle of the intake. But the aftermarket boost gauge reads fine for vacuum.
 
my car did the same thing because of a weak dying battery. Changed the battery and I was back in business!!!
 
graf703 said:
Not venting to the atmosphere.

Now I have a 2g is there anything different about the ISC in my car compared to yours? I also read about one guy that unplugged his ISC and it worked fine on a 1g.

The ISC in the 1 @ 2 G cars are the same and are interchangable, except for the 1990, which is somewhat different.
 
I'm looking at parts for the ISC and all autozone is showing on the website is an idle control valve for 190.00!!! Is this the same thing or do i need to order from satan? Thanks!

It shouldn't be the battery its brand new.
 
went home and switched the iac motors from my old engine to the new one and it was dead too. We checked all the pins according to the manual. One pin was open on the 1st one and on the 2nd one there was one really high resistance pin. ### thats an expensive part!
 
graf703 said:
went home and switched the iac motors from my old engine to the new one and it was dead too. We checked all the pins according to the manual. One pin was open on the 1st one and on the 2nd one there was one really high resistance pin. ### thats an expensive part!

If you have two bad IAC motors, you can probably swap coils in them to produce one IAC which works. Total cost $0.00 Each IAC has two coils. If one of these coils is bad, the IAC won't work. If you open the IACs up, by removing three screws, you will see the two coils. They are held in place by the souldered wires. You can remove the coils by melting the soulder. Remove the bad coil from one IAC and replace it with a good coil from the other IAC. I have repaired several IACs this way, with good results. When you reassemble the IAC, test it thoroughly to be sure that none of the coil wires touch the metal body of IAC, since a short will damage your ECU. The attached photo shows an IAC which been opened and the wires unsouldered. The top coil has been pulled out a bit to show it better.
 

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