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2G Blown headgasket or something worse.

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Vyrexus

Probationary Member
9
2
Mar 29, 2014
Alcolu, South Carolina
Alright, so my car has done fine for about 11,000 or so miles. I don't drive very much and have owned it for about 2 years or so and just a few weeks ago it became very hard to start and would skip below 1500rpm. Today on the way home it was being sluggish during accelerate. Parked it when I got home and opened the hood. I got a face full of smoke from burning oil or coolant(not good on the smells). I also have no heat and this odd grinding sound that I can't pinpoint. I am going to compression test it and boost leak test it after class tomorrow. Any help would be appreciated.

Mods:
Hard intercooler piping turbo to mani.
Aeromotive fpr
Walboro 255
Egr delete (gotta love S.C.)
Iac delete due to it killing a computer and itself
14b from a 1g (had a blown ebay 16g)
 
Check your gaskets around your turbo and exhaust manifold and check the bolts as well. If you have a large leak you can have low or even no boost situations which will lead to very bad performance and the smoke could be caused by exhaust gas leaking out. I had a VERY small hole in my O2 housing and it smoked like crazy.
 
Smoke and grinding noise, that's not very descriptive.

Did the car run out of coolant
Is it full on oil
Does the oil cap had a milk shake substance on it
Are all of your intercooler pipes connected still
Did the radiator crack at the hose connection

There are so many variables you need to start at the basics, how is the oil, how is the coolant, is everything connected correctly, are there any signs of oil leaks or water leaks

For all we know you hit a possum that is now covered in oil and on fire and making a grinding noise under your hood
 
How long did you not have heat? What was your temps when you noticed it being sluggish? How long did you drive after you start having problems?
 
Smoke and grinding noise, that's not very descriptive.

Did the car run out of coolant
Is it full on oil
Does the oil cap had a milk shake substance on it
Are all of your intercooler pipes connected still
Did the radiator crack at the hose connection

There are so many variables you need to start at the basics, how is the oil, how is the coolant, is everything connected correctly, are there any signs of oil leaks or water leaks

agree. check these and report back. and if you have the ability too, perform a boost leak and compression test also.

For all we know you hit a possum that is now covered in oil and on fire and making a grinding noise under your hood

Is it bad that i hope this is the issue? i would literally die laughing if that happened to me
 
Alright, compression tested 145, 149, 177, and 185. Coolant is fine i had just flushed and burped it. The heat worked very little when i got the car and now i have none at all. Oil is good, no milky looking stuff on the cap/ dipstick. I did find that my oil pressure sending unit is bent back and letting oil drip past at operating temp. Temps were normal when it was being sluggish and about 3 miles back home. It boosts fine and holds steady. Radiator is fine no coolant leaking from anywhere all hose clamps are tight and hoses are connected correctly. Did not check the crank yet, but that is on my list of things for tomorrow.
 
compression is a little off. normally you dont want more than 10-15% max difference between them. when you did this, did you remove the engine relay and have the throttle wide open and let the engine turn over at least 4 times? for all cylinders? was the coolant low before you flushed it, or has it been needing to be topped off while you've owned it?
 
Alright, compression tested 145, 149, 177, and 185.

145 and 149 is low compared to 177 and 185. Were they tested last? Maybe low battery life. Have you tried to add a cap full of oil to those cylinders and retest. You shouldn't have more than 15% difference between cylinders. I personally like 10% or less.
 
I have an analog tester. Coolant was always a little low before because it was pushing most of the coolant into the overflow tank, I replaced the radiator cap and that fixed that. I will try it again and add a little oil to it. the 145 and 149 were first.
 
Re did the compression test and found out that my tester has a leak (my dad came over and helped me with that). they were 170-180 all the way across this time at the top (but leaked down because of the crappy tester). I'm going to pull belts tomorrow to see what's grinding.
 
Re did the compression test and found out that my tester has a leak (my dad came over and helped me with that). they were 170-180 all the way across this time at the top (but leaked down because of the crappy tester). I'm going to pull belts tomorrow to see what's grinding.

It could be the pump. But if it's not overheating it's unlikely. Make sure to check the all pulleys for grinding/binding. Compression numbers were good so it's most likely not a bad head gasket. I'd check the heater core for a clog. Easiest way is to pull the heater hoses off the motor and put a water hose to one and see how it flows. Then check the other one.
 
Just wanted too be clear ... did you flush and burp the coolant system befor this happened, if so how long befor it happened. I have seen alot people try to "Burp" ther system and still leave alot of air in the system and this can cause all kinds of issues ...over heating, and remeber that coolant is the lubricant for the water pump so when ran low it can cause waterpump failure... which is kinda what I am leaning too
 
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