best 400awhp-500awhp piston/rod combo

[Phantom DSM]

I wasn't trying to start anything. This was just the third time I've seen him post in a condescending tone of his "knowledge". Im supprised he didn't try to belittle the guy by calling him "jr" also. It just irks me, that's all. Either way I'm ready to drop it.

I personally can't say I've ever had a bad experience with any piston manufacturer, granted I've only run wiseco, mahle, and Manley.Most if not all will hold that power level no problem.

In regards to aluminum rods, they are very streetable as long you don't engine brake and put the motor into vacuum. With that said I'm going with an aluninum RnR or Darrens Vader rods with my spare block that's going to be street driven.

Thanks, I understand what you mean as well man, I have longer experience but i dont have to flaunt it. If he wants to thats fine, I have nothing against him, but i just didnt want misinformation to be spread around because of "1" motor failure.

With proper warm up and oiling, these motors can go on highway runs. Im just so tired of people saying you cannot street an aluminum rod motor.
If people have doubts, call Darren at FFwd connection, he swears by the vader alum rods and ive even spoken to john at Force Engineering and discussed BME rods. The technology has advanced in the field. And if you properly build it, You should not have to drop your oil pan every oil change to check for rod bolt torque spec or stretch Thats just ridiculous.
Lasthope05 i hear great things about RnR, they can make any custom you ask for, let us know, because im strongly leaning towards an awesome Alum rod setup as well.

 

[bastarddsm]

Manley pistons are available as well but don't have all the features of the Wiseco.

I suppose you could call wiseco's cracking skirts, and 0.180" wall pins that fail a feature.

If I was only going to make 500whp tops, I'd be running eagles and mahles. If you run wiseco's, get some better pins.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I run scat and mahle and havent had any issue at 133 mph traps.

I have a buddy 2.3 stroker with mahles and eagles running 42psi on his 35r and no issues. And hes gotta be above 500

 

[boost97gst]

Damn man, one of my Mahles went on me after ~4500 miles. Only #2, the rest have perfect leakdown and comp numbers. I cant blame Mahle though and never would. Ive only heard good things about their pistons.

 

[bastarddsm]

Thanks, I understand what you mean as well man, I have longer experience but i dont have to flaunt it. If he wants to thats fine, I have nothing against him, but i just didnt want misinformation to be spread around because of "1" motor failure.

With proper warm up and oiling, these motors can go on highway runs. Im just so tired of people saying you cannot street an aluminum rod motor.
If people have doubts, call Darren at FFwd connection, he swears by the vader alum rods and ive even spoken to john at Force Engineering and discussed BME rods. The technology has advanced in the field. And if you properly build it, You should not have to drop your oil pan every oil change to check for rod bolt torque spec or stretch Thats just ridiculous.
Lasthope05 i hear great things about RnR, they can make any custom you ask for, let us know, because im strongly leaning towards an awesome Alum rod setup as well.

Recommending or even talking about aluminum rods for a 500whp car is just asinine. And yes, if you run aluminum rods on the street they will eventually fail, and in a shorter time frame than steel rods. Anyone who tells you otherwise is an idiot.

 

[Phantom DSM]

Recommending or even talking about aluminum rods for a 500whp car is just asinine. And yes, if you run aluminum rods on the street they will eventually fail, and in a shorter time frame than steel rods. Anyone who tells you otherwise is an idiot.

I have already recommended Ross/arias pistons with manley/eagle rods for the OP few posts above. ^^ It just got off topic on a "failure" story from dsmcurse .You have your own opinion and if thats how you feel about Alum then fine. I just didnt feel like hearing a deterring statement that you cant run aluminum rods on a highway for fear of failure, because some shop built it and the owner broke it Does this mean we should never touch these rods for a build, C"mon ! This is the issue on the forum on a topic like this, lots of myths and b.s., and not enough facts. But thats for another thread, this thread is only for 500.

 

[nitrouskris]

Well I have DSM with aluminum rods. Its not a DD just a SS car and 5 years later still in the car. Brother has a EVO with aluminum rods 3 years of DD duty and now a SS car makes over 700HP now with no probelms. Have a shit load of ford guys running aluminum rods at the shop and still running.

<<<<<<<<<<<This is my view and from what I seen /built / tuned >>>>>>>>>

 

[Phantom DSM]

Well I have DSM with aluminum rods. Its not a DD just a SS car and 5 years later still in the car. Brother has a EVO with aluminum rods 3 years of DD duty and now a SS car makes over 700HP now with no probelms. Have a shit load of ford guys running aluminum rods at the shop and still running.

<<<<<<<<<<<This is my view and from what I seen /built / tuned >>>>>>>>>

Thanks for sharing experience firsthand. I know most people with that type of money in a motor would not DD an Alum rod motor, but it can handle highway driving without sudden failure myth stories. I have been doing a lot of research and having input from owners with these rods is much more helpful on durability debate.

 

[JacksonAuto]

I suppose you could call wiseco's cracking skirts, and 0.180" wall pins that fail a feature.

If I was only going to make 500whp tops, I'd be running eagles and mahles. If you run wiseco's, get some better pins.

I've seen the threads regarding cracked Wisecos. If I'm not mistaken, the number one anti-wiseco member of this forum (who instigated that thread) admitted to not pin-fitting the pistons. You cannot assemble an engine with improper clearances, experience a failure then blame the piston. When used in the proper application, Wiseco pistons do the job reliably.


Regarding aluminum rods, they will fail sooner than a steel rod. Period. Its a product of the fatigue characteristics of steel vs. aluminum. In our V8 drag engines they get replaced after 200 runs. When the engine is torn down we inspect the rods and the big ends and pin bores are starting to show signs of being out of spec. In a boosted engine the stresses on the rods are a little different so you may get some more life out of them but to say they will last as long as a steel rod is simply not true.

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[gieri002]

I went with Pauter X-Beam rods, they have been great for daily driving and have seen over 700hp on my car. If you haven't heard of them they might be worth looking into.

They are made from MSP220 steel (220,000 psi tensile strength).

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Before the ECU decided it wanted to randomly and intermittently revert to a previous tune in the middle pull for reasons unknown... I suspect a bad ground.. we made near-as-makes-no-difference ~600whp (would be as high as 650-660 on some DynoJet/DynaPack dynos) with my tired short-block before calling it a season and putting it into hibernation yesterday.

I'm a pretty big fan of the 6-bolt rod/piston combo for 500whp. The motor was built in my garage 5 years ago, has survived two chassis, on it's third transmission, and about two dozen hardware combos. (turbo/cam/manifold, etc.)

 

[diambo4life]

For 500whp I would keep the stock shortblock. Run it with the stock head gasket and don't detonate it. It will last years....reliably.