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Battery relocation [Merged 3-8]

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boostedinaz said:
Pehaps a little track in your area, but if the track is an NHRA certified track then they should be checking for it. It is in the NHRA rules. IF you were to go a sanctioned event you would be left in tech for no kill switch. They need a way to kill ALL power from the outside of the car if something happens.

Is this for all cars? or just one with battery reloc. or is it for cars over a certin amount of hp? i never heard of this before?

does it concern daily drivers that go to the track on weekends?
 
Crazed Modder said:
Is this for all cars? or just one with battery reloc. or is it for cars over a certin amount of hp? i never heard of this before?

does it concern daily drivers that go to the track on weekends?

If you move the battery from the stock location. It concerns any car that has the battery moved from stock location no matter how much HP or what time it runs.
 
So, does anybody have any ideas on how to mount the battery box in the trunk of a 2g without taking out the spare tire? Also, would it be legal to make your own battery box or does it have to go through some inspections before it passes. The box that came with the taylor kit is just huge.
 
96whgsx said:
So, does anybody have any ideas on how to mount the battery box in the trunk of a 2g without taking out the spare tire? Also, would it be legal to make your own battery box or does it have to go through some inspections before it passes. The box that came with the taylor kit is just huge.

industrial strength velcro? LOL

buy an optima or something similar, sealed battery>stupid box.
 
CyberEye said:
industrial strength velcro? LOL

buy an optima or something similar, sealed battery>stupid box.


Actually, I was thinking of a few pieces of scotch tape. :p

Doing some research on batteries, I was thinking of buying the smaller odyssey battery or the baker precision battery. The only downside is the CCA ratings, around 280 for the odyssey and maybe 500 for the baker. I would rather have the odyssey mainly because it is a couple of inches smaller than the baker, is a little cheaper, and looks to have better life-span.

Regarding the rules on making your own metal box, I found this quote from the NHRA rulebooks:

In lieu of rear firewall, battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch-steel, .032-inch-aluminum, or NHRA-accepted poly box

I'm taking it that I can have ANY metal box within the confines of the thickness OR the NHRA-accepted poly box (basically the moroso one, still too big though). Somebody correct me if I'm wrong about this.
 
I bought a GST a couple weeks back and the owner before hand just put on a new alternator b/c the battery was draining...so I got it, re did the relocation wiring b/c the wire had been burnt though where he had originally ran it....and then put in a new battery...well the first two days it started fine, no problem...I only let it run for like a min. both days and didn't drive it b/c I'm swapping out some stuff....but today I go to start it and nothing..I tried jumping it but still nothing...lights and everything else worked fine...it did bump it just barely one time while I was trying to get it cranked....I'm not sure if I have something wired wrong with the relocation or something...Any help is appreciated..I need to get this thing on the streets :thumb:
 
I'd check the connections feeding the starter - most starters have fairly direct connections to the battery, whether the positive or ground side, the other side being isolated by a contact closure solenoid (a BIG relay) - I'm not sure which side is which on your car as I haven't looked at the electrical diagram, but it'd be the first thing I'd look at: weak juice to the starter.
 
Hmmm I'll have to check that out tomorrow...If anyone has a diagram they could throw up it would be apreciated thanks
 
I have been out there most of the day looking everything over and still no avail....I wish my service manual would hurry up and get here...I want to get this thing out on the road....I didn't find the relay you were talking about either...I know on the 2gs it is behind the radio...but I didn't find anything there...Thanks for the help
 
Is this the starter relay??? :confused:
 

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DSM2GNT95 said:
...I didn't find the relay you were talking about either...

Well, there are two different components you're interested in:

1) Any sort of starter relay that's in the starting circuit, perhaps behind the dash as you suggest

2) the "starter solenoid," a big, honking cylinder that sits on top of and attached to the starter motor assembly itself.

Also, I'm looking at the electrical diagram for the starting circuit now and the clutch pedal switch must also be closed for the starter relay to receive power, so there's another thing for you to look at if you have an MTX.

The diagram also indicates that it is the positive lead that runs straight from the battery to a contact on the starter and that the relay, clutch switch and solenoid are all used to ground out the motor to allow current to flow through it. So you should be able to check for positive voltage at the starter that should be "live" at all times. I would suggest checking this first.

HTH
- SK
 
skelly said:
Well, there are two different components you're interested in:

1) Any sort of starter relay that's in the starting circuit, perhaps behind the dash as you suggest

2) the "starter solenoid," a big, honking cylinder that sits on top of and attached to the starter motor assembly itself.

Also, I'm looking at the electrical diagram for the starting circuit now and the clutch pedal switch must also be closed for the starter relay to receive power, so there's another thing for you to look at if you have an MTX.

The diagram also indicates that it is the positive lead that runs straight from the battery to a contact on the starter and that the relay, clutch switch and solenoid are all used to ground out the motor to allow current to flow through it. So you should be able to check for positive voltage at the starter that should be "live" at all times. I would suggest checking this first.

HTH
- SK
Well, I disconected the clutch pedal switch to make sure that wasn't causing my problem and still nothing....I'm not sure witch relay it is still...the wiring on this car is terrible...so I'm going to swap a few relays that may be it and check the voltage at the starter tomorrow...But I do know that the starter is conected directly to the battery..Thanks for the help Skelly
 
What do you mean you "disconnected" the clutch switch? The switch is in a normally "open" state until you clutch down all the way at which time it closes. With that switch closed and the ignition key turned to "start", the starter relay will receive power which will close the grounding circuit to the starter solenoid. If you were to "disconnect" the clutch switch, it seems to me that you would not be able to close that starter relay circuit unless you hard-wired the clutch switch contacts which would normally be done as a typical "clutch start bypass" procedure - is this what you've done?

- SK
 
Kinda. I went to ebay and bought a the Odyssey pc680 battery. The thing is like 3x7x7 inches. It really is dwarfed by the any other battery that I've seen. I would have put in the passenger side of the trunk but my amp is there and I would have to extend its wires if I were to relocate it elsewhere. So I'm thinking of putting it on the driver's side of the trunk, flat and cut out a chunk of the plastic body panel that is hiding the left rear strut. The project is on hold because I need to find somebody who will make me a sheet metal box and I need to figure out how to hold down the battery. I was thinking of using some really thick metal strips, hammering them to hold the battery over and drilling holes in them to mount the bolts to the body. The box that came in the summit kit was WAY too large. I'll have some pics up in a few minutes.

PS: thanks for asking, I almost forgot about it. :thumb:
 

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96whgsx said:
Odyssey pc680 battery.:
Whoa that thing looks like it weighs about ten pounds NICE! :rocks:
96whgsx said:
I was thinking of using some really thick metal strips, hammering them to hold the battery over and drilling holes in them to mount the bolts to the body.:
You should try some L-braket's instead of strips and wedge the battery between the two L-brakets(drilled onto trunk floor)then two bolts front and back of it should be steady.
Heres my sketch :coy:
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96whgsx said:
PS: thanks for asking, I almost forgot about it. :thumb:
im gonna do this during this weekend finally just gonna swing by Sears,Kmart to find me lawnmower battery. Theres a few out there that are like seven pound OMG
BTW is that your riding partner in those pics :tease:
 

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Here what I was thinking: The straps will be bent to hold the battery down and then bolted to the car. The strap that goes in between the two terminals will just wrap around the battery without any bolts. On its opposite side, it will be bolted down to the car. Here are a couple of crappy sketches to help explain it. Oh, how I love pics. The second pic is a side view.
 

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esi-slowboy said:
Eggs-cellent :thumb:
Im on that! Take pics when your done. Tell how everything went
BTW were those pics done on a CAD program LOL!

It will be a while.
 
Ok, here is an update on what I'm doing. Ive decided to use one bracket that holds the whole battery down. Then for the side of the battery that the terminals are located on and the opposite side, I will install these long 90* brackets that will prevent the battery from sliding against it. The battery box is being made now but I have no idea when it will be ready. I also ran the thick power cable except from the battery to the kill switch. I've decided to mount the kill switch on a bracket that will be connected to the center bolt located behind license plate.

Also, I have one more question about the wiring part. Is a circuit breaker/fuse on the power line necessary? I read posts where they say you really should have one but I don't really see the use of it. Also, if it is really needed, should I mount it between the battery and kill switch or somewhere after the kill switch? Thanks.
 
Well, I'm finally done with the whole project but unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures durin the process or after it yet. Everything worked out fine but if somebody is going to try to do the same thing as me, I would suggest getting the box 3 1/2 inches high, 4" will show a lump through the carpet. I'll get some pics up within a few days. I'll also show where I put my kill switch.
 
How did you actually end up running all of it. I am still confused on how to run the kill switch. Right now I have one 2 gauge wire running from the battery, and that is connected to everything in the front of the car. Would I have to ran another wire from the battery to a kill switch and then from the switch to the alternator. I seen the diagram on taboospeedshop.com but now the site is down. Thanks in advance
 
here is mine before the relocation on my RS..ran a circut breaker (any audio shop should have one) ran my ground under my custom false floor and ran the positive from the breaker to the engine bay to where I wired it up to the existing wires...
 

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