The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

bad ticking noise when reving

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This is what I thought too. But I did notice a familiar sound. It's the same sound I hear when I leave my VC breather port open, it just kind of "putters". Sure enough, the OP's VC port is open. :idontknow:

You talking about the breather on the valve cover? It is going to a Gatorade bottle? it started making this sound after a hard pull a few months ago and im 100% sure its not the motor, my oil in the motor is clean and i change it every 500-750 miles with 20w50. my trans had small flakes of metal in it and the fluid itself looked like metallic BMW paint. (that fine of metal) I already put a stethoscope on the valve cover, it was not that, not lifters i have topline 3g lifters. it was comming from the bottom of the bay by cyl 4. or the clutch/flywheel area. I didn't put the scope on the trans though.

And its not a ticking its a rattling.. it sounds something vibrating on something else.. i dunno the sound is sort of in the back ground of the exhaust.. it happens when i start to rev up then when i rev down. only in neutral with the clutch out.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You talking about the breather on the valve cover? It is going to a Gatorade bottle? it started making this sound after a hard pull a few months ago and im 100% sure its not the motor, my oil in the motor is clean and i change it every 500-750 miles with 20w50. my trans had small flakes of metal in it and the fluid itself looked like metallic BMW paint. (that fine of metal) I already put a stethoscope on the valve cover, it was not that, not lifters i have topline 3g lifters. it was comming from the bottom of the bay by cyl 4. or the clutch/flywheel area. I didn't put the scope on the trans though.

And its not a ticking its a rattling.. it sounds something vibrating on something else.. i dunno the sound is sort of in the back ground of the exhaust.. it happens when i start to rev up then when i rev down. only in neutral with the clutch out.

I'm sorry. If I put my nose to the screen I can detect that the valve cover has a 90* fitting and has a hose on the end. I'm used to just a straight fitting and the video showed what looked like an open barb at first. I also meant to say that I can't truly detect the sound you're trying to show us. Sometimes I think I hear it, but then I'm not so sure.
 
if compression is good and you don't have any misfires then you know you didn't float a valve so maybe you should drop the oil pan and check the bearings .
 
So you stil think it's in the transmission, is that correct? You said there was metal flakes in it, right? Well if it is in the transmission I can't say which part because I don't have the knowledge on it or experience. I'd Google it if I were you and see if anyone else had it, I'm sure TOB will be the first thing but it's probably something else since you changed yours with the clutch, right?

The other thing is to use a cardboard tube like wrapping paper comes in and listen to narrow it down a bit.

"oil in the motor is clean and i change it every 500-750 miles with 20w50"
Wow that is some thick stuff, it slows my car down and it gets poor gas mileage too when I run 20w50, but I am basically stock.

"my trans had small flakes of metal in it and the fluid itself looked like metallic BMW paint"
Yeah it sure sounds like the transmission was running too thin of fluid or got abused or just too many miles..? What fluid was in it do you know? When was tranny oil changed last or do you know? How long and how many miles have you owned it before the 6 bolt swap? Original transmission?:hmm:
 
So you stil think it's in the transmission, is that correct? You said there was metal flakes in it, right? Well if it is in the transmission I can't say which part because I don't have the knowledge on it or experience. I'd Google it if I were you and see if anyone else had it, I'm sure TOB will be the first thing but it's probably something else since you changed yours with the clutch, right?

The other thing is to use a cardboard tube like wrapping paper comes in and listen to narrow it down a bit.

"oil in the motor is clean and i change it every 500-750 miles with 20w50"
Wow that is some thick stuff, it slows my car down and it gets poor gas mileage too when I run 20w50, but I am basically stock.

"my trans had small flakes of metal in it and the fluid itself looked like metallic BMW paint"
Yeah it sure sounds like the transmission was running too thin of fluid or got abused or just too many miles..? What fluid was in it do you know? When was tranny oil changed last or do you know? How long and how many miles have you owned it before the 6 bolt swap? Original transmission?:hmm:



Transmission has redline MT90 in it, and the motor has 5k miles and i just changed the mt90 in the trans again 2 days ago.. Heavy weight shock proof on the Tcase and a new tcae input seal and an axel seal. i have owned it since 115k miles on the body, it has about 130k now. The 6 bolt has 5k on it now i am thinking its something in the clutch since no i didnt change the clutch when i changed the TOB because the whole system only has 4k on it, with the exception of the trans. When the trans was off i didnt get to open it up to check the gears and i didnt open the pressure plate to check out the clutch disk because i just thoguht it was the TOB. The MT90 that was in it before didn't look so good, and it was only 4300 miles old i think it is the origional transmission. maybe time for a shep rebuild?
 
Just tarted my 2g with 6 bolt swap for the first time I have idle at 2k and a noise that is like this too I haven't even driven my car since the swap only started and revved it. It isnt a tick but more of a rattle somewhere inside. My motor is rebuilt i dont know wtf it could be or why it's idling so high.... But that noise wtf is it!!!
 
The sound is not rpm dependent, it is engine speed variant, if i hold at 2k rpm and let off, its when it slows down. Thats the sound it makes. Its gotten louder too... No shift problems what so ever though, bearings perhapse?

is your engine sound like this? if it is, then it rod bearing, i hope you dont have that.
:(
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Iu6yXkg_epw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Its not rod bearings my oil is too clean for it
To be that.. its silent when idling and i only hear it with the clutch out i dont hear shit when the clutch is engaged. More
Proof not engine related. With the clutch in i can rev to 7k and not hear anything but cams on lifters. Clutch put and in neutral rattles like a bi***. I think its bearings, center diff bearings intermediate and output shaft bearings and the open roller style bearings that are causing this noise. The center diff doesn't spin with the clutch in correct? So im thinking it could be that... Its gonna be a bit before i crack open the trans for a rebuild though.
 
Last edited:
is your engine sound like this? if it is, then it rod bearing, i hope you dont have that.
:(

no it doesnt sound like that at all. it sounds like the damn video I POSTED...its silent at idle im 100000000000% positive its not rod bearings or anything motor related
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This is starting to sound more and more like a simple TOB but it's as if there's conflicting information.

Could you, precisely and concisely, restate what the problem is in 2-3 sentences?

its all in the first post man, but here i go. I already replaced the TOB 4 days ago or when ever that post says i did it, and put in a competition forged shift fork, OEM TOB. Its not the TOB. Guarinteed. clutch master and slave are new as of 1k miles ago also (about one or two months old)


problem: Rattling noise ONLY when i let the engine slow down after a steady rev, or doing a quick rev to 2k or 3k i hear the noise on engine spin down. i only hear this noise with the clutch out and in neutral. i cant say i have heard this while in gear because i will have the clutch in while in gear and stopped. and reving sounds normal no rattling noises. I notice the same noises if im driving by a wall while in gear though.. SILENT WITH CLUTCH IN i can even make the noise happen in neutral and when i put the clutch in in neutral sound goes away and in a single rev of the throttle i can push the clutch in and out and hear the sound go away and come back.... the 2nd video i post has a perfect sound of what this crap is.

Reason i dont think its engine related: With clutch in i can rev up to 7k as many times as i wont and i will not hear the sound what so ever. or while doing a 2 step with clutch in the sound is not there.


Now my speculation is that is is a bearing or more then one bearing causing this noise inside the transmission, possibly center diff? possibly input/intermediate shaft bearings? or final drive bearings. i don't know cause i haven't cracked open the trans. the Redline MT90 that was in there and was changed 4k miles ago when i did the motor build had turned metallic grey and looked like wet BMW paint. very fine metal powder. so something in the transmission had ground up a bit; could be bearings i don't know. it only grinds a gear going into reverse quickly when trying to back into a parking sport or something like that and it wont grind every time going into reverse. other then that the trans shifts like butter no matter what RPM i shift at....


in all honesty i know the fix for this sound. a shep/jacks/english trans rebuild... but im very very curious what is causing the sounds??!?! i don't plan to rebuild the transmission for a long time because it still shifts fine.. if something seriously goes wrong ill sent it out to get fixed up but as of now its just an annoying noise, and obviously something is going on because of the condition of the trans fluid when i changed it last week. so id still like to hear your input, this is my daily driver car, and for all i know the trans could be original with 131k miles on it:hmm:
 
Yea I got same exact problem, Luckly I got a guy close by me that builds these trans. My trans was already rebuilt and then when installed I get that same noise. It shifts fine and I can drive car but when revving or deaccerating I will get that noise. I am thinking input shaft bearing but will see next week when I pull and take to this guy hes a pro at these.
 
got the trans pulled off, the passenger axel was a bi***. going to send it off to shep when my delivery box gets here and ill post back when i know what they find. im thinking 3-4 shift fork or sleeve, and all of the bearings. i took out the speed sensor and noticed nice thick chunks of metal :thumb: yay for making power! Shep trans stage 3 with 4 spyder center diff, evo3 1st gear, double synchro 1-4 and a shep spec 2nd :)
 
i popped open the top case of the trans and i found what looks like gear bits :S tell me what you guys think. and check out the MT90 with only 100 miles on it. i wasnt able to go past that because i didnt have the proper tools for the larger nuts:banghead: i was really interested to see for myself what the damage was, but shep will have to tell me at this point.

Edit: LOL you can say hi to my buddy sean in the oil reflection, thats my hand takin the pic ha just noticed that.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
LOL oh snap son, breaking shit are we? Nice man well you figured out the wierd noise at least. You will love the sheppard transmission, you can't go wrong with that. Continue to use that MT-90 in the new trans.
 
LOL oh snap son, breaking shit are we? Nice man well you figured out the wierd noise at least. You will love the sheppard transmission, you can't go wrong with that. Continue to use that MT-90 in the new trans.

i think im gonna try the MT90 + MTL combo :) i bought a sprung clutch but i plan on using the same pressure plate and flywheel cause they only have 5500 miles on em, should i cross hatch the contact surfaces? its the same brand 6 puck sprung same material, or will it not matter?

pix. i guess i still had a little bit of material on the clutch left, but im sick of the chunking sounds of the solid 6 puck


the surfaces are smooth on the contact points but they are a little scored. and again, only 5500 miles on all of these parts, daily driven solid 6 puck.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top