bad ticking noise when reving

[Archer Fabrications]

it has been confirmed by me that the broken piece and raddling noise was my 3rd-4th slider. shattered into 7 rather large pieces, pix to come! bearings lookd tits.

shep stage 3 here i come!

 

[YZFR1]

An oil change is not going to tell you if you have shavings in the oil pan you would need to drop the pan

On a side note, is there any reason your timing numbers are negative? I'm still getting used to ecmlink so maybe there is something i'm still missing but does your exhaust glow red or do you have high EGT's by any chance?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

timing is low because i run alot of boost and im still getting it tweekedn i also have a 9.2:1 compression, no my manifold and turbine housing dont glow red, the turbo is huge and flows alot of cold air. i dont have an EGT gauge but i dont see knock spark plugs look good, turbine fins look good. egts arent excessive.

An oil change is not going to tell you if you have shavings in the oil pan you would need to drop the pan

On a side note, is there any reason your timing numbers are negative? I'm still getting used to ecmlink so maybe there is something i'm still missing but does your exhaust glow red or do you have high EGT's by any chance?

if you didnt read, its not engine related, its the 3rd 4th slider in the trans.

 

[YZFR1]

Oh ok, yeah i didn't read the 2nd page..

It's alright to lower timing numbers to battle knock when needed but running super low values (especially negative) you could be torching your exhaust valves and even the turbine blade. You can get one of those cheap heat lasers at Harbour Freight and point it anywhere on the exhaust manifold and find out where you stand with that. But in general, you don't want to have negative values anywhere you plan on being on the map.

As timing gets retarded, your combustion temperatures go down, however, your egt's go up because the mixture is now starting to burn in the exhaust.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

pix of the shattered 3rd 4th slider

 

[Archer Fabrications]

thought id update as i just now 15 minutes ago got off the phone with tevor at shep trans. sadly my center diff housing and gears are totally FKCD, my output shaft is also worn, so that needs replaced, so.. all in all, my ticking noise was the center diff going out or being chewed up, and my 3rd 4th slider/sleeve has been confirmed to have been shattered as suspected. they offered to weld the center diff for cheaper as the most cost effective option, but since my car is my daily driver it needs the 4 spyder, so instead of just buying 2 more spyder gears to add to the current stock ones, i need to buy 4 all new spyder gears as well as the center diff case itself now im broke again, i love my car

oh and for all of you that sugguested rod knock, i had the oil pan off and everything looks perfect in the motor.

 

[ed1380]

I'm going through the same thing right now......... I'm scared. Only 45 miles on wastegate pressure.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I'm going through the same thing right now......... I'm scared. Only 45 miles on wastegate pressure.

have you dropped the trans or taken off the top part of the case to it? thats how i found out the slider was bad, i had NO idea about the center diff... now this trans is costing me 3049 bucks at least i get the evo3 input shaft and 1st gear. had to NIX the double synchro 3-4

in all honesty its gonna be so worth it going down the strip and not having to worry though. he said as long as i keep the rev max around 8500-9k i should be fine without double synchro 3-4th, also says that the hardened gears are stronger then the ones they need to use with the double synchros.

 

[ed1380]

The trans also has 45 miles since I rebuilt it. I put 1g internals in there with the stronger 3rd gear hub. And it's been at 10psi, never past 6500rpm.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

The trans also has 45 miles since I rebuilt it. I put 1g internals in there with the stronger 3rd gear hub. And it's been at 10psi, never past 6500rpm.

Feel free to take over this thread, i was just about to mark it as resolved. after all shep figured out the total damage and is repairing it so im all good. have at it ed. start a new OP in here if you want.

 

[ed1380]

Did emissions and tag today. Currently at 70 miles and it still hasn't gotten louder.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Did emissions and tag today. Currently at 70 miles and it still hasn't gotten louder.

mine didnt get louder until it was too late.. it was a consistant, engine SPEED varient sound. ticking for me was most likely the spyder gears hitting the housing everytime i free reved. are you thinking yours is 100% tranny related?

 

[ed1380]

I'm thinking lifter, because it sounds like it's coming from the head. I'll be doing an oil change next week, and I'll pop off the oil pan *fingers crossed*

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I'm thinking lifter, because it sounds like it's coming from the head. I'll be doing an oil change next week, and I'll pop off the oil pan *fingers crossed*

thats alot of crap to take off for being so unure, id poke around with a stethiscope, if its lifters you will directly hear it in the valve cover. how ever if you are paranoid dropping hte pan always is a good confirmation. i had suspected mine was trans related from almost from the get go because it would go away when the clutch was pressed in, i dont know if that has anything to do with the center diff moving freely or not, but thats what was going on, noise when free rev, no noise when clutch rev.

 

[ed1380]

Dropping the pan won't be that hard. It's already going on the lift for an oil change.

This is also the reason I went with aluminum bearings over tri-metal. If any shavings get past the oil filter, they get embedded into the softer bearings and if caught early enough cause little to no damage to the crank. If that happened in my case, then it's just $45 for new bearings and hopefully that's the limit of the damage.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Dropping the pan won't be that hard. It's already going on the lift for an oil change.

This is also the reason I went with aluminum bearings over tri-metal. If any shavings get past the oil filter, they get embedded into the softer bearings and if caught early enough cause little to no damage to the crank. If that happened in my case, then it's just $45 for new bearings and hopefully that's the limit of the damage.

like i siad, its alot to take off, down pipe, subframe and T case. if you even suspect lifters... but like i said if your paranoid then go for it , im running hte trimetals and when my pan was off everything still looked tits. maybe if you were running trimetals in the first place you wouldent be worried about the bearings. just kinda seems dumb to buy a bearing because when it fails it wont do as much damage, id rather get a bearing that is less likely to fail at all.

 

[ed1380]

You're misunderstanding me. The aluminum ones are not weaker or more likely to fail. I pressure washed all the oil galleys in the block/head/crank, and I know that they will never be 100% clean. I also deleted the oil cooler. yes I am paranoid of debris in my oil. Especially since 6 bolt 2.4 cranks are hard to find. They're just more forgiving if metal debris finds its way into the oil.

With all that's been done, there is a very little chance of that happening. I just checked the records and crank/rods were not out of round. .002 oil clearance on the mains and .003 on the rods.

I also don't see how it can be the lifters. They were all cleaned before installation and everything was fine until the car was parked.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

You're misunderstanding me. The aluminum ones are not weaker or more likely to fail. I pressure washed all the oil galleys in the block/head/crank, and I know that they will never be 100% clean. I also deleted the oil cooler. yes I am paranoid of debris in my oil. Especially since 6 bolt 2.4 cranks are hard to find. They're just more forgiving if metal debris finds its way into the oil.

With all that's been done, there is a very little chance of that happening. I just checked the records and crank/rods were not out of round. .002 oil clearance on the mains and .003 on the rods.

I also don't see how it can be the lifters. They were all cleaned before installation and everything was fine until the car was parked.

do you have stock lifters? or 3g revised? it probably isnt lifters, do you have a video of these sounds?

 

[ed1380]

3g lifters. I'm getting one of these to check it out

Mechanic's Stethoscope

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Long screw driver does the same thing

 

[ed1380]

but this makes me look sophisticated

Even dad confirmed that it's lifter tick, which is weird because it started after 40 miles.

And then I hit 25psi last night just until 4k. Came home to adjust the mbc and the knocking is a good lit louder. I spoke with a friend, and he's having the same noise. Both of us have freshly rebuilt 6 bolt strokers. rebuilt heads. 3g lifters. good oil pressure.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

but this makes me look sophisticated

Even dad confirmed that it's lifter tick, which is weird because it started after 40 miles.

And then I hit 25psi last night just until 4k. Came home to adjust the mbc and the knocking is a good lit louder. I spoke with a friend, and he's having the same noise. Both of us have freshly rebuilt 6 bolt strokers. rebuilt heads. 3g lifters. good oil pressure.

those 3g lifters shouldent tick... what weight oil are you running? im running 20W50 and have no ticking issues and im using topline 3g lifters. get a video of the sound. your explanations arent helping

 

[ed1380]

I'm running 15-40.

This was taken yesterday before it got louder.
4g63 lifter tick? - YouTube

 

[Archer Fabrications]

do you have cams? sounds normal to me.... and i hear what our talking about.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

I'm running 15-40.

This was taken yesterday before it got louder.
4g63 lifter tick? - YouTube

it may be a bad piston or piston wrist pin. they will knock and sound like its from the head as well. Being as this is,a, fresh stroker build it is very possible.