The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Post a Question

2G AWD Conversion/Swap Guys Enter Here - Advanced. [Merged 2-07]

Please Support STM Tuned

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Interesting. Funny no one ever brought that up before. I guess everyone just dismisses it because it's so simple, but it'd be good to add it to your list if you're about to take on the project.

Now that you mention it, I'm not positive which one was longer. I thought it was the FWD, but either way I swapped it out.
 
Well, there's officially one more AWD Spyder lurking the streets. I've just got a loose end or two to tie up yet before it's ready for what the little Evo3 can throw at it. That crossmember in the back is going to be the death of me.

I did observe a properly functioning fuel gage, though, in strict accordance with Paul's wiring diagram. I filled it up today and the gage went straight to full from dead empty. I really think the half tank problem is a result of a sticking float as I mentioned earlier. Were any of you guys able to fix this yet?


P.S. It's nice to finally have a first gear that actually does something.
 
I followed the automotiveforums.com post for the swap and everything is grand except that my fuel gauge doesn't have the resolution the stock one did. It goes to full when its full but I can drive like 30 miles and it drops to 3/4 tank and then I can drive like 100 miles and it drops to 1/2 then I'll drive like 30 miles and it drops to 1/4 and then it goes down slowly until it bottoms out and I still have about another 80 miles left in the tank before I have to refill. These are just estimates of where the gauge drops but I usually get about 340 miles a tank.

I love the AWD. Slinging my car around corners is fun now :)

If anyone has any questions they need answered feel free to PM me, if you can't get any answers anywhere else. I just rarely check the forums but I get an email when I get PM'd. Peace.
 
my gas guage will read perfectly above 1/4 tank, but when the level drops below 1/4 tank, it stops there and i just have to wait for the gas light to come on. kinda weird
 
That sounds like a different type of problem. The wonderful thing about potentiometers is that they're notorious for drifting away from their nominal values over time. I would bet that one or both of your sending units is still varying resistance as it should, but the values have shifted down from the manufacturer's spec. You can do a disconnected resistance check across each of the senders with the tank full and empty, and that should identify the culprit(s).
 
OK so I got my donor completely stripped and understand how this stuff all goes back together.

My problem: The whole rear carrier assembly is a rusted POS. I thought it was all surface rust and could be dealt with easily - I was wrong. The bolts that go through the rubber grommets are rust welded to the inner sleeve. The only option that I see is to cut the bolts and sleeves off and replace with new bolts and a prothane kit. Can I buy a complete bolt kit for the rear end? Where?

Option number two - anyone know where I can pick up a complete 2g rear carrier assembly in good shape?
 
gorf said:
OK so I got my donor completely stripped and understand how this stuff all goes back together.

My problem: The whole rear carrier assembly is a rusted POS. I thought it was all surface rust and could be dealt with easily - I was wrong. The bolts that go through the rubber grommets are rust welded to the inner sleeve. The only option that I see is to cut the bolts and sleeves off and replace with new bolts and a prothane kit. Can I buy a complete bolt kit for the rear end? Where?

Option number two - anyone know where I can pick up a complete 2g rear carrier assembly in good shape?
Click to expand...

Don't go with the prothane. I know a guy who did that and now has to find the metal sleeves for the bushings which is near impossible. Most of the time when they come out they are torn to pieces.
 
I built my awd spyder about 2 years ago and the gas gauge has never worked right. When its full, it reads about 3/4 of a tank but from there on it works normal. I dont let it bother me. I fill it up and wait for the light to come on and fill it up again.
 
im just starting my awd swap and I had 2 questions... probably many more to come...

do the shifter cables line right up for both trannies...
I was told the slave cylinders are different, Im pretty sure they are the same but just wanted to make sure

Im acually just going to swap the front ends of the two cars tomorrow I think its gonna be pretty easy, I can do an AWD clutch in 2-3 hrs
 
samnumba1 said:
im just starting my awd swap and I had 2 questions... probably many more to come...

do the shifter cables line right up for both trannies...
I was told the slave cylinders are different, Im pretty sure they are the same but just wanted to make sure

Im acually just going to swap the front ends of the two cars tomorrow I think its gonna be pretty easy, I can do an AWD clutch in 2-3 hrs
Click to expand...

The shifer cables should line up just fine. The mounting locations are the exact same for the two transmissions.

The slave cylinder from the FWD will also work on the AWD. Plan on adjusting the pedal freeplay (duh), but other than that you shouldn't have any problems with it.
 
ok.... so I am doing an AWD conversion, and Im also converting my donor car to FWD so I can sell it!!!! I wanna break even on this... so far Ive stripped down my FWD car and have the AWD car ready to get torn apart.

1)I can see that the subfram bolts have a lot of support in the frme with that long cylinder it goes though and is welded on bolt sides... Am I OK just dropping a short bolt down there or do I need to weld the bolt to both sides.

2)For the AWD gas tank front bolts the one toward the front of the car. Am I ok cutting a hole in the fame slipping a bolt down there and pulling it though the hole to bolt the strap to.

Ok you can see Im parinoid about support I want my car and the donor car to be sold after this is done.


O and I had an inquiry, Instead of taking off the brake line and taking off the ebrake cable I just disasembled it and left it hanging ... This saves SOOOO much time I wont have to bleed the breaks or hunt for the Ebrake cable and unbolt it from inside the car!!!
 
So I finally finished rebuilding the rear end that I bought. Bought an LSD the donor did not have one. and replaced two lower control arms, a number of bolts, sanded, treated and painted.
The next thing I am going to do is get the tranny rebuilt and make sure I have all required parts.

Here is the Question:
In another thread I read that the starter plate from a GST does not work with with the GSX tranny.
Is this true also on 2g's?
I did not get a plate with the shell I bought and can not find it in CAPS. Just exactly what do I need to fit the starter on?

EDIT - FOR CLARIFICATION
The plate mentioned is nothing but a dust cover between the tranny and the engine, the mount holes for the starter are fixed in the bell housing. Remove the dust plate and lay it on your AWD tranny bell housing to see what has to be cut. Not only does one screw hole need to be slotted but the big hole for the starter has to be opened up toward the drive shaft.
You can re-use your FWD starter.
 
Yea i just finished this.. AWD IS AWESOME!!!! O and the starter plate... you can grind the hole closest to the front of the car out and the starter will fit fine... I finished everything and found out i needed the other plate, it was an easy fix. the plate I think is part number MD167356 but dont worry about it grinding it worked perfect!
 
samnumba1 said:
Yea i just finished this.. AWD IS AWESOME!!!! O and the starter plate... you can grind the hole closest to the front of the car out and the starter will fit fine... I finished everything and found out i needed the other plate, it was an easy fix. the plate I think is part number MD167356 but dont worry about it grinding it worked perfect!
Click to expand...


Is the GSX flywheeel smaller or larger than the GST flywheel?
 
I'll be starting this process in the next couple of weeks. We are going to strip everything we need from the parts car on the first day. We'll get everything lined out and hopefully have all the rear end stuff swapped out in a day's time. I picked up a running car (but rusted through shock tower) so I should have everyting ;) I can't imagine what this car is going to be like.
 
ATTN: SPYDER GUYS!

Hopefully this is my last question before I actually start stripping my Spyder.
I have the rear end completely rebuilt and painted, should be getting my awd tranny back from Shep's next week. I still need exhaust and front axles.

So here's the question - I went searching online for axles, according to "thepartsbin.com" AWD & FWD manual turbo axles are the same part number.
anyone tried their original axles?

Other sites have different part number for AWD, FWD and Spyders.
So if there are separate part numbers for Spyders, what axles do I need for an AWD Spyder?
 
Starting my AWD swap in a month or two. Any other little tips and tricks that will speed up the swap?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!

Similar threads

Swap 92 AWD Tranny into 90 car? (Merged)
2 3
Replies
72
Views
3K
Maes
Maes
AWD Conversion
Replies
3
Views
1K
98spydert
AWD conversion
Replies
3
Views
1K
JeepinJoe
AWD Conversion
Replies
16
Views
4K
Taboo
2G AWD Spyder conversion
Replies
3
Views
1K
Doubleot
Doubleot
Boosted Fabrication
ECM Tuning
ExtremePSI
FIBA Motorsport
Fuel Injector Clinic
Innovation Products
Jacks Transmissions
JNZ Tuning
Kiggly Racing
Morrison Fabrications
Rix Racing
RockAuto
STM Tuned
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top