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Archer Bros. Racing Talon Resurrection

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schemauer said:
Yes, I was there. I had to turn the boost down to try to make the car work on the tight track...it's set up more for open track events, but it was fun. That Evo was really fast, I would have liked to have had my GSX out there as well.

I have looked and looked through everything I could find about that car and could not see whether that car was FWD or AWD. I'm guessing FWD because as I walked past it once I looked at the rear suspension from the side and it didn't look like an AWD setup.

The Evo is quick. It's all stock except the wheels (1/2" wider than stock) and the tires are 255/40R17 Victoracers. It's a fun car.
 
You could weigh the car in at a station, thats what I did with my car. Most truck places have them.

There is another car forsale? Could you Pm me the info on this if you dont mind.
 
Hey Scott, is there anyway you can take some photos of your tranny cooler setup? There's some discussion going on here regarding your cooler and I'd especially like to see the what for... :)
 
Greg-

If you look in the first post of this thread (with the pics of the car) you'll see the tranny cooler. In the second picture, with the front bumper off, you'll see it mounted in the front driver's side corner of the car. The lines from the tranny snake across the front of the car, in front of the radiator to the cooler. There is some ducting that routes air from the corner bumper cutout to the cooler. (You'll also see the oil cooler mounted more towards the passenger side of the car.)

To accomodate the cooler the tranny is modified with two female fittings, welded to the tranny, that mate to the male ends of the -6 lines used. One fitting (send) is located on the passenger side of the tranny at it's lowest point, pointing towards the passenger side of the car. The line is routed from there, just above the axle, to an area right behind the passenger side of the tranny where the fluid passes through a filter and then goes through the firewall to the pump. The second fitting (return) is located at the top of the tranny.

Essentially there is a Tilton tranny fluid pump mounted inside the car in the passenger side footwell with a switch on the dash. The pump pulls fluid from the bottom of the tranny, through an in-line filter, through the pump, through the cooler in the front of the car, and back into the tranny.

I generally will switch the pump on after the warmup lap to first get some heat into the fluid. I have no idea the temp drop that I might see with the system - it is simply the setup that the Archer's used in the car in '93!

Let me know if you need further pics of the setup and I can get them taken.

Scott
 
I'd be interested in seeing the connections to the tranny and a photo of the pump and filter. So there's no sump in-line? When changing your fluid are you just disconnecting the lines?
 
I'll get some pics tomorrow. The filter is a screen-type canister filter. You remove the lines to clean the filter.

I'm not sure where the cores came from - they were the original ones that came with the car.

If you go to pegasusautoracing.com.......the filter is like part #3217 and the Tilton pump is part #1239.
 
I have some pics that I'll send to Greg to reduce and post tomorrow. I can't get a pic of the core however, as it is not fully visible with the car assembled. You can judge the size by viewing the picture of it next to the radiator in the first post of this thread.

To clarify - The system maintains the stock fill and drain plug. There are two male fittings (-8) welded to the tranny for the system. They sytem draws fluid from the passenger side of the bottom of the tranny, up through a canister-type filter near the firewall. The line then goes through the firewall to the pump which is mounted to the firewall on the passenger side (inside) of the car. The fluid is then routed through the cooler core in the front of the car and back into the top of the tranny.

For the system you'll simply need a Tilton pump, dash mount switch, -8 fittings and lines and a Setrab or similar core, probably at least 12x12. Not too complicated; just make sure it is plumbed in the order mentioned above......filter before pump - core after pump. The trick would be to weld the fittings onto the tranny while it is removed and disassembled. I don't know how you would install the fittings with the tranny in the car. In that case you may need to utilize the drain and fill plugs for send/return.
 
schemauer said:
I have some pics that I'll send to Greg to reduce and post tomorrow. I can't get a pic of the core however, as it is not fully visible with the car assembled. You can judge the size by viewing the picture of it next to the radiator in the first post of this thread.

To clarify - The system maintains the stock fill and drain plug. There are two male fittings (-8) welded to the tranny for the system. They sytem draws fluid from the passenger side of the bottom of the tranny, up through a canister-type filter near the firewall. The line then goes through the firewall to the pump which is mounted to the firewall on the passenger side (inside) of the car. The fluid is then routed through the cooler core in the front of the car and back into the top of the tranny.

For the system you'll simply need a Tilton pump, dash mount switch, -8 fittings and lines and a Setrab or similar core, probably at least 12x12. Not too complicated; just make sure it is plumbed in the order mentioned above......filter before pump - core after pump. The trick would be to weld the fittings onto the tranny while it is removed and disassembled. I don't know how you would install the fittings with the tranny in the car. In that case you may need to utilize the drain and fill plugs for send/return.

Hey Scott, the photo reducer is ready to go...:D
 
Scott sent me the photos of the FWD tranny cooler setup for upload. Amazingly simple install other then the tranny welds. What a great idea for more cooling capabilities...
 

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Ya know I bet if there wasn't alot of pressure in those lines you could even jb weld the fittings to the tranny if you had to. Welding cast aluminum has got to be a total PITA.
 
Or maybe just JB weld the top return fitting - if it failed you would hopefully notice the mess before the tranny totally drained.

For the critical send fitting you might then thread a fitting into the stock tranny drain plug. I don't know if I'd trust the JB weld on the send fitting as a failure would immediately drain the tranny.

The trick would be figuring out how to drill a hole in the casing for the return fitting without shaving dropping into the tranny.
 
I would still appreciate if you could physically count how many rows the engine oil cooler has. I was trying to do that from the picture but it's impossible.
You might be able to tell if you have the full size picture if nothing else.
Thank you.
 
I was joking about the JB. It's not terribly hard even for a novice to take the transmission apart with a decent set of tools. Disassembling the case is probably the only way to guarantee you get nothing in the transmission. I can't think of anywhere where the casting is thick enough to be able to rely on threads alone to seal it up other than the drain/fill plugs themselves. Welding would be about the only option.

From what I've heard though from John Shepherd, welding the tranny housings really sucks because not only is it cast aluminum, but it's also always impregnated with thousands of miles worth of dirty tranny fluid which makes it even tougher. Now if you were to get a brand new transmission from Mitsubishi back in 1990 (as I'm sure the Archer's would have) then you'd be a leg up on the welding ease.
 
TRANNY cooler seems to be the factory engine oil cooler and that's not what I asked for.

What I wanted to know was how manny rows has the ENGINE OIL COOLER, the one that is on the passenger side. Can you see that?
Thanks.
 
mavisky said:
I was joking about the JB. It's not terribly hard even for a novice to take the transmission apart with a decent set of tools. Disassembling the case is probably the only way to guarantee you get nothing in the transmission. I can't think of anywhere where the casting is thick enough to be able to rely on threads alone to seal it up other than the drain/fill plugs themselves. Welding would be about the only option.

From what I've heard though from John Shepherd, welding the tranny housings really sucks because not only is it cast aluminum, but it's also always impregnated with thousands of miles worth of dirty tranny fluid which makes it even tougher. Now if you were to get a brand new transmission from Mitsubishi back in 1990 (as I'm sure the Archer's would have) then you'd be a leg up on the welding ease.


I'm wondering why you couldn't come off the existing fill and drain plugs with the pump. If you had a 1/2 quart sump in line with the pump and cooler you could be adding a lot more fluid in addition to what's in the pipes and cooler itself. You don't need that much pressure to keep things moving??
 
I agree, I think that's the easiest sounding method. I'm sure a call to Tommy or Bobby would straighten things out though. Few racers forget things like why they made a decision like that, and while they may not be able to tell you what they used to do it, they could probably tell you why pretty easily.
 
I wonder if they were thinking about pouring cooled oil onto a critical tranny component, something that would benefit from extra oiling? It looks like the return line is aimed at the front diff, so I wonder what type of front diff they were using? Perhaps they mounted the return line so it would pour oil onto the front diff gear, which then slings it up to the gearsets.
 
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