1G Am i forgetting anything?

[Bigmike4g63t]

So I am finally about to get started with the mods I had been planning. Before I add more hp I ordered everything for the timing belt, pulleys, tensioners, water pump, etc, also pulling the head and taking to machine shop to inspect and put in new valve stem seams at the least, and replacing the front main seal. I have already put a walbro 255 in and rewired the pump. I have ordered 1200cc fuel injectors. After the head and timing are done my next step will be link v3 and add injectors and swap to e85. Then I'm upgrading the clutch and flywheel and replace rear main seal. Then adding a evo 3 big 16g, ported 2g manifold and then fmic. Also somewhere in there swapping for a 2g maf and better bov.

I have been trying to make sure I am replacing whatever I can while parts are off but I'm sure I have forgotten something. The head gasket I ordered is a oem composite and I ordered the cometic complete engine gasket set.

What have I overlooked?

 

[jdxnc]

Skip the 2g MAF and just go right to speed density with Ecmlink. The stock 1g bov is actually quite good and not a big concern but if you go to speed density when I would suggest a Tial Q 50mm.

 

[Bigmike4g63t]

I have no clue how to go about setting up speed density. I will read up on it. What are the benefits?

 

[jdxnc]

I have no clue how to go about setting up speed density. I will read up on it. What are the benefits?

Read the Ecmlink wiki, tons of good info. It just gets rid of the MAF altogether, I personally find it easier to tune, cleaner appearance, less clutter, less restrictive intake. Even if you were to blow a coupler or something the car would still drive fine to get home or deal with it.

 

[curt-s]

I have no clue how to go about setting up speed density. I will read up on it. What are the benefits?

Neither did I when I started but reading a bit gets you most of the way and the rest is just logic with experience. It's literally no more difficult than tweaking the MAF settings, except you now do it in two dimensions instead of one and the intervals are much finer. This means you have more control over the tune. You'll need a 3 bar (at minimum) MAP sensor and the GM IAT sensor, which is basically the standard. You'll have to get a bung welded in your UICP nearish the TB for the temp sensor. The map you can run off one of the ports on your 1g IM. The left fatty is the one I use.

It's not rocket science, don't fret. Beneath the surface you're adding or removing fuel in both absolute pressure and RPM directions instead of just the MAF Hz in one direction. In either case, they both dealing with volumetric efficiency in some way, or how much fresh air can be drawn/forced into the cylinder replacing spent air-fuel mixture, but speed density goes up a level on the principle.
Instead of sliders which are used to correct the MAF reading, you have numbers, and those are dependent on your global fuel at the time. That means if you change global, you scale the table, etc etc etc blah blah.

Anyway, there's lots of documentation, don't be scared of it. It will make sense once you start playing with the table and seeing your WB react. Just be careful when you're in boost, watch that WB as much as you safely can.

 

[Bigmike4g63t]

Any other gaskets that should be changed out while all that is apart that I am not thinking of?

 

[curt-s]

Anything that's leaking. Gaskets aren't generally replaced unless they've failed. If it aren't leaking, you're good to go. If you have to disturb them, replace them.

Check your cam seals and front case seals.
Just take the time to inspect everything, generally.

 

[Bigmike4g63t]

The car is 33 years old. I just wanted to do whatever I could while half the car is apart to freshen it up.

 

[Bigmike4g63t]

Think I may switch from the evo 16g to a 20g....

 

[dwb]

I'd suggest replacing everything on the front case to ensure your fresh timing belt doesn't get oily. Keep in mind to remove the front case it requires that you remove the oil pan so you can remove the oil pickup tube to free the oil pump. You need the balance shaft seal (if you haven't deleted the BS), front main seal, oil pump seal, front case gasket, oil pickup gasket, and castle nut o-ring (can be a PITA if you don't have the tool so maybe you will want to skip it). Oil pan uses RTV instead of a gasket and pay attention to the oil pan bolts that thread into the front case - two are shorter to prevent gouging the timing belt. Cam seals, maybe a valve cover gasket and half moon. Also if you haven't deleted the balance shaft, make sure you replace the balance shaft belt and BS tensioner pulley. Then you need to think about the other sides of the head. Water neck gasket, CAS o-ring, throttle body gaskets, intake mani gasket, exhaust mani gasket. I'm probably forgetting something, but this is a good start.

As far as the MAF upgrade, another option is to use a 3g/EVO MAF if you run ECMLink. You need an adapter for an air filter and the electrical plug adapter, but otherwise directly connects to the stock 1g intake snorkel.

 

[Bigmike4g63t]

Can I do that without pulling the engine?

 

[dwb]

Can I do that without pulling the engine?

Yes, front case no problem. I even managed to pull the front balance shaft, albeit that was not easy.

 

[Bigmike4g63t]

I am keeping the balance shaft. I am replacing the belt and tensioner , and everything else involved with a normal timing belt change.

 

[RamenPride]

Can I do that without pulling the engine?

Not sure on a 1g, but on a 2g you have to lower the engine enough for the balance shaft to clear the frame.