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Aluminum Rods for a Daily Driver.

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dsmornothing

10+ Year Contributor
604
9
Jul 23, 2009
Ishpeming, Michigan
Alright so I know what kind of answers I will get right off the bat saying no dont do this blah blah. But after doing some reading on several forums including over on the EVO forums I have been reading where people say you CAN in fact daily an aluminum rod. I want to hear from people who have in fact ran aluminum rods for either multiple seasons and or used them for street driving. The more reading I do I am afraid of using an I-beam because of the weight and the damage they do to bearings at the 800 hp levels which I do plan to be at. Any suggestions or experience is appreciated!
 
The weight isn't so much what will kill the bearings as much as the metal distorting at high load and temp and closing in your clearances. A good way to avoid this is to run extra clearance on the rod bearings.
 
Welp I have made the jump. I just got off the phone with R&R and I have ordered a set of aluminum rods. They guarantee that I will see 12,000 miles out of them used for a daily driven car. I will put these rods to the test and check these at the end of each summer. I hope that this may change some things for the DSM world! The rods came to just a touch over 600 with L19 bolts so its already a win win over the I-beams!
 
Are the I beams not good for daily use? Just wondering, dont know much about why go with aluminium over steel
 
Are the I beams not good for daily use? Just wondering, dont know much about why go with aluminium over steel

Usually the aluminum rods are lighter and stronger. However, they have a fatigue aspect to them.
 
Usually the aluminum rods are lighter and stronger. However, they have a fatigue aspect to them.

That is correct. They are also much easier on rod bearings and very good for high revs. They also have a locating pin on them for the bearings that acts like a keeper making spinning a bearing very hard. I guess we will see how this all pans out!
 
Welp I have made the jump. I just got off the phone with R&R and I have ordered a set of aluminum rods. They guarantee that I will see 12,000 miles out of them used for a daily driven car. I will put these rods to the test and check these at the end of each summer. I hope that this may change some things for the DSM world! The rods came to just a touch over 600 with L19 bolts so its already a win win over the I-beams!

Are you going to have to replace the rods after 12,000miles? or just the rod bolts?
 
Are you going to have to replace the rods after 12,000miles? or just the rod bolts?

If the rods still check out I wont be replacing them. I will also check the bolts and keep them if they are still in their limits. I plan to change as little as possible when it comes apart to be checked. I have faith that these will last more than 12k, its just too bad its going to take so long to post the results!
 
If the rods still check out I wont be replacing them. I will also check the bolts and keep them if they are still in their limits. I plan to change as little as possible when it comes apart to be checked. I have faith that these will last more than 12k, its just too bad its going to take so long to post the results!

What did R&R say to check for? check the length of the rod and bolts?
 
Yes. I will be sending rods and bolts in to R&R at the end of every summer to have them check them out.

Sounds like they have a good customer service. I am guessing they won't be charging you for the service. I would love to see the results. Good luck with your build!
 
What are your plans for bottom end build Cory, if you don't mind me asking?

:dsm:

Bottom end will be 6 bolt block 2.0 Long rod
Kiggly main girdle
ARP Main studs
Balanced, polished stock crank
R&R Rods L19 bolts
Manley Custom 10.5:1 Pistons
 
I have ran aluminum rods for about 3-4 years now. My first motor was a groden/mahle combo. That one popped after 16 months of abuse and about 15,000 miles. I now have an RNR/wiseco combo that has been running for another year and a half, maybe two. But this one has not seen as many street miles.

High heat kills aluminum rods, so watch your oil temps and run an oil cooler in the summer. You also have to get the rods up to operating temp. So you oil and coolant temps should be nice and hot before beating on them. This has been discussed over on the link forums in depth.
 
I go completely against what everyone else says. So don't listen to me.

But after 2 years of street abuse ( over 30,000 miles) 1 year at 730whp and 1 year at 800whp my Grp rods are still kicking.

I treat it like a turn key and go car. There are a couple people on here that were around when I had them in my street build. I would fire up and go. Also there are a few who have been to the track with me and watch me pull it off the trailer and go make a pass.


Maybe I'm just lucky but I will be using the same exact rods and bolts next year. Neither measure stretch or signs of stress.
 
If I was running a 2.0, I would run aluminum rods, I've heard nothing but good things about them. There is so much grinding when using them in a stroker I decided to just stick with steel.
 
If I was running a 2.0, I would run aluminum rods, I've heard nothing but good things about them. There is so much grinding when using them in a stroker I decided to just stick with steel.

Yes. I believe there is quite a bit with the 2.0 as well. But a stroker must involve a whole shit ton more!
 
This is why im taking the long rod I beam route

Edit: oops.. just resized how old this was
 
Not to jack your thread, but I've been running R&R aluminum rods in my Galant for almost 4 years now. Have about 15k miles on them. Just pulled the pan a couple weeks ago. Bolt stretch was ok and the torque was still 53-55ft.lbs. I drive it a few days a week, pretty much all year.
 
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