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Aluminum Rods for a Daily Driver.

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Over the past 3 years I have built 3 R&R aluminum rod motors. All 3 motors are still running without ever opening them up. And these are not normal cars one is a 2g auto car with 30 low 9 sec runs and one 8.9et. One is a daily driver 1g auto that runs mid 10s. And the 3rd was my personal motor that I made 500hp with on a mustang dyno and daily drove for 2 years summer and winter. That motor was sold as a long block and is now in a friends car making 800hp in a 2g. That motor is also on 21mm pins and runs great.
 
Over the past 3 years I have built 3 R&R aluminum rod motors. All 3 motors are still running without ever opening them up. And these are not normal cars one is a 2g auto car with 30 low 9 sec runs and one 8.9et. One is a daily driver 1g auto that runs mid 10s. And the 3rd was my personal motor that I made 500hp with on a mustang dyno and daily drove for 2 years summer and winter. That motor was sold as a long block and is now in a friends car making 800hp in a 2g. That motor is also on 21mm pins and runs great.

Thanks a lot for the personal input and advice. Just what I was looking for to help me decide!

Also that's what my pins look like so I'm pretty sure they're hd. Thanks for the pic
 
My previous setup(s) have all ran stock 6-bolt wrist pins.. last combo ran as much as 67lbs/min, upper 30s boost and 9250 redline. Same engine thats in the new chassis with the S3 cams and HX52.. saw 31psi and 9k on friday night during testing.
 
My previous setup(s) have all ran stock 6-bolt wrist pins.. last combo ran as much as 67lbs/min, upper 30s boost and 9250 redline. Same engine thats in the new chassis with the S3 cams and HX52.. saw 31psi and 9k on friday night during testing.

Glad to hear all of this positive feedback about these pins. Im planning on either groden or R&R rods with this custom wiseco setup. Hoping all goes well in the end!!! Next thing to tackle will be tuning this setup:p
 
I guess it might be possible, but the amount of clearancing is probably huge. Probably have to get rid of the bearing cap bridges, and all of the ridge and maybe more in the balance shaft area. 2.4L block should require a little less. Someone was talking about it further back in this post.

Oh, and p.s.- drove her through about 6" of snow, 0*F when I left work. Still going strong at 20k+ miles.
 
Only about 3500 miles over the past few years on my Grodens with JE pistons and whatever 22mm pins came with them. This is in a 6 bolt 2.4L which has seen 45psi and 9300rpm and also driven in snow, daily for a week or so at a time, anything really. Groden is gone but I wouldn't buy another set anyway because of the bolt issue that some have had. My next engine will have R&R
 
On the same subject I'm considering aluminum rods and after seeing ffwd s Vader aluminum rods I'm considering going that route. But I haven't seen their rods brought up in this thread so does anyone have any experience with them?
 
On the same subject I'm considering aluminum rods and after seeing ffwd s Vader aluminum rods I'm considering going that route. But I haven't seen their rods brought up in this thread so does anyone have any experience with them?
First off Darren from FFWD is a great guy to deal with. My fiancé delt with him a lot when she bought me a set of Vader Rods for Christmas. I haven't installed them yet but I will say these things are light and works of art.Darren is always willing to answer any questions and give advice plus makes a great product. Kevin with the blue 1g rwd talon ran 7's with these rods.
I will check back when I have these rods installed and running, I have high hopes for them.
 

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I've got close too 10000-12000 miles on my R&R alum rod 2.0. They're not for everybody but are certainly streetable IMO. I get some heat into them before I lean on it. I've tore the motor down 3 times for post season inspection and rod and mains looks prestine. This summer I had my machine shop freshen up the short block, and the rods checked out, they checked out good so they went back in for another couple summers.

I do beat on the car alot, it see's 70+lbs/min and 10000rpm shift a lot and never misses a beat. I'm quite happy with this 2.0LR setup and will build another someday.
 
Does anyone with aluminum rods have specific clearances they'd like to share when it comes to a DD shooting for 8.5k to 9k rev limit? I have a set of groden rods that I've been sitting on and like to use them in my build but have been a little intimidated as to what clearances I should be running since they do need a lot more space for when they expand/stretch under heat/load. I have an idea of what clearances to run based off BMEs website but the thing is I'll be running these rods on a sub 500hp turbo and am wondering if these clearances that are recommended will be a tad too large?

Any input is much appreciated
 
The extra clearance is more for the thermal expansion of aluminum and not to do with HP. Stick with what the manufacturer calls for. The rods need a minimum of .060" from anything inside the block they come close to. Example main caps, bottom of the cyl walls, ect. Choosing the right machine shop is critical IMO In order to live.
 
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