Altered Mental Status (1G AWD 5spd)

[CrackedDSM]

That was me, the glory was short lived. It was a rapidly diminishing problem down to the car barely starting and running like crap for the first minute or so. I'm near positive it's because the injector(s) were not closing all the way and it became more exaggerated as time went on. I put in other 2150s from my hoard but they were gunked up and the car didn't run. I am currently in the process of DIY cleaning injectors so there's no updates yet on the car as that's been my side project.

Pressure testing the system to verify the fuel was rising 1:1 had the vacuum lines leak hella bad, and at ~40 psi they blew off the solenoid like a cartoon. I'm not against the solenoid, but the plastic nipples on the solenoid arent even barbed, it's just not designed for higher than stock boost. The connection there would need some serious work for me to try it again. Unlike other vacuum lines, if that pops off, your FPR isn't rising 1:1, and that's a game over problem.

Phew, I'm convinced. Nevermind on that one.


So, no fix as of yet? If I cycle the key on and off and few times before I start it(I have ECMLink enabled fuel pump for a few seconds after key on), it'll fire up. I wonder if I just need to increase the CrankingFuelAdj in the 176* and 190* spots. It only happens after an extended drive in operating temps.

 

[Stapl3]

No, no fix yet. I do have the injectors fully cleaned, I think anyways, but have not put them in to see the results. What I do know is the injectors I put in that were gunked up and wouldn't fire, when I pulled them days later there was a ton of fuel pouring out of the rail as expected. On the set that had me pulling my hair out this summer, I'd pull them and there would be nothing in the rail. Not much to add there aside of I saw the problem progress in real time.

If you find yourself cycling the key a few times before starting, just raise the seconds the pump primes in 'link.

 

[CrackedDSM]

No, no fix yet. I do have the injectors fully cleaned, I think anyways, but have not put them in to see the results. What I do know is the injectors I put in that were gunked up and wouldn't fire, when I pulled them days later there was a ton of fuel pouring out of the rail as expected. On the set that had me pulling my hair out this summer, I'd pull them and there would be nothing in the rail. Not much to add there aside of I saw the problem progress in real time.

If you find yourself cycling the key a few times before starting, just raise the seconds the pump primes in 'link.

This is why you make the big bucks. I swear for some reason I thought it was just a check box that couldn't be changed. Duuuuuh.

 

[curt-s]

Hey @curt-s , was it you that was having hot start issues and replacing the stock fuel pressure solenoid was the fix? I think I might need to do that same thing but I can't remember who recently was advocating putting that back in.

No, I've never used a FPS and my current one dumps the vac canister on the cyclone. Sorry bud

 

[CrackedDSM]

Drove it home. The extra 3 seconds of fuel pump priming made the difference. Also: car didn’t die at all on me either. Just had to up the coastingFC back to where it was. I got overzealous and lowered the hell out of it and nah.


Also gonna take the MBC back out. I made a 3rd gear pull to 6500RPM and had to back out because it went pig rich and started to bog. Because the boost crept up to almost 20lbs. not cool for the clutch I’m trying to break in on wastegate pressure.

But yeah. I’ll post the log later today if anyone’s curious. I hit 30lbs a min of flow. It was 14-15lbs for most of that and the last 1500RPM was super rich and low timing. Not bad honestly.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Also gonna take the MBC back out. I made a 3rd gear pull to 6500RPM and had to back out because it went pig rich and started to bog. Because the boost crept up to almost 20lbs. not cool for the clutch I’m trying to break in on wastegate pressure

One night of a couple launches will break that clutch in just riiiggghhhtt

 

[CrackedDSM]

One night of a couple launches will break that clutch in just riiiggghhhtt

Don't tempt me more than I already am! After that accidental "quick start" at 4000RPM, I want to stutterbox 5500RPM it...



But, here's the log incase anyone is curious. Gonna get a new log tonight because fueling up top was changed(obviously it needed to).

I also added more CoastingFC, enabled hot start enrichment, and added 3 seconds to the Key On Fuel Pump Prime box(was previously at 2 seconds) and it completely solved all the issues yesterday. It died once because of my own fault(too low of RPMs and too quick of clutch release), but it started right back up. No issues with dying at lights or when putting it in neutral while coasting. It's back to being a pleasure to drive again without me having to focus 110% on keeping it running. Which is nice.


Here's the log. P.S....have I mentioned how utterly amazing the turbo noises and BOV noise is? .

 

[CrackedDSM]

Forgot to include this. I didn’t have to remove the bulb at all, the ebrake connector that tells it if it’s fully down was just loose and dirty. Look at it! No lights!

Really annoys me that the stock water temp and oil pressure gauges don’t work. Have to fix those wires too like I did the Tach but it’s low on the priority list.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Forgot to include this. I didn’t have to remove the bulb at all, the ebrake connector that tells it if it’s fully down was just loose and dirty. Look at it! No lights!

View attachment 746727


Really annoys me that the stock water temp and oil pressure gauges don’t work. Have to fix those wires too like I did the Tach but it’s low on the priority list.

I'm reluctant to point out the low fuel indicator.

 

[Anfurnyy]

I'm reluctant to point out the low fuel indicator.

Means the lights working, Right

 

[CrackedDSM]

I'm reluctant to point out the low fuel indicator.

Yeah the sending unit or wiring or both is suspect. It comes and goes. I’ll eventually dig into the wiring and/or probably just replace the sending unit entirely to make it go away.


So that one doesn’t count. It’s only like half on.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Forgot to include this. I didn’t have to remove the bulb at all, the ebrake connector that tells it if it’s fully down was just loose and dirty. Look at it! No lights!

View attachment 746727


Really annoys me that the stock water temp and oil pressure gauges don’t work. Have to fix those wires too like I did the Tach but it’s low on the priority list.

 

[CrackedDSM]

View attachment 746728

I’m hesitant to admit that during the great speed density struggle of 2024, my fuel was so low the car wouldn’t restart on an incline. Ironically, low fuel light was off for that. So that was part of the drivability problems…

 

[CrackedDSM]

Another glimpse into the past here with something I forgot to post with all the tuning and changes we did Sunday to get the car running, but yeah.

Think these were fouled?


I cleaned them pretty good, but have new ones on the way.

 

[Stapl3]

Get some BR7ES and gap them at ~.025

 

[CrackedDSM]

Get some BR7ES and gap them at ~.025

Yus. That's what's on there currently, and what's currently in the mail to me now to replace them. I have these ones gapped a little tighter, so I'll open it up a bit to 0.25 on the new ones.

 

[Stapl3]

Run the largest gap you can.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Run the largest gap you can.

Really? Why?


(Not arguing, genuinely trying to learn. Teach me, Stapl3-san.)

 

[CrackedDSM]

 

[curt-s]

Mo spark, mo ignition capability

The bigger/longer the spark, the more energy is available to ignite the mixture.

The only thing is, you fight cylinder pressure causing blowout and the ignition system not supplying enough energy to jump the gap. It's a balancing game of opening the gap for your boost level whilst watching for misfire (the lack of ignition kind).

 

[CrackedDSM]

Mo spark mo ignition capability

For some reason my brain thought a slightly tighter gap was stronger spark/less likely to blow out.


Probably wrong. I'll gap 'em according to the great sage and eminent refuses-to-elaborator's instructions. Ain't steered me wrong, yet.

 

[curt-s]

*Edited. Original content was quoted below and was incorrect, was thinking of something else entirely. It's late *

It's the other way around, less energy is required to jump a small gap. The more you open the gap, the more energy is required to make that jump. You also increase the area the spark affects by opening the gap.

..until your ignition system can no longer provide the sufficient energy to jump a large gap to meet the ignition timing event.

Spark plugs are basically electrical shorts. You need a lot more power to short out a longer distance. And when it does, it makes a bigger pop than something half the distance (as an example only)

 

[CrackedDSM]

A tighter gap will be easier to jump and may contain more energy, but it doesn't take much energy to actually ignite. What you need is more opportunity during that jump.

I did a deep dive, and a few people including bastarddsm have stated that a tighter gap lead them to a slight misfire under light cruise conditions and bastard specifically stated he thinks it's bad for power to have them too tight.


Crazy. The more you know.

 

[curt-s]

I did a deep dive, and a few people including bastarddsm have stated that a tighter gap lead them to a slight misfire under light cruise conditions and bastard specifically stated he thinks it's bad for power to have them too tight.


Crazy. The more you know.

Sorry, reread my post i edited. I was considering a different phenomenon.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Sorry, reread my post i edited. I was considering a different phenomenon.

I see. That makes sense. A lot of sense. Thanks for the knowledge!