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99 RS drag race build stock block 420A

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Just thought I would shair the rods we had made about 2 years ago. Everything for the bottom end is at the shop I work for. But I just have to stay after work to get the bearings drilled for the rods.

775a88e4734011e387960ee8fbc8973c_8.jpg
 
im sure im missing something, especially with this work pc, but....youve already got it zero-decked. can you "stroke" that stock block and mill the head to get that compression up? maybe long duration cam? Those aluminum rods look beautiful BTW.
 
The days of street driving this car are over for the most part 1 gallon fuel cell makes it hard to go any place. So there is no real need for the gauge cluster this is what I built to move the gauges off the A pillar and more into the line of sight.
I started with the stock bezel.
firstclusterpic.jpg

Then cut most of the depth off the back.
cluster2.jpg

Next I glued mold fabric to the back warping around the side.
cluster3moldfab.jpg

After that I applied a pollster resin (fiberglass) sorry no picture of this the next step was to use bondo to smooth it out the bondo set up a little quicker than I was ready for so the finish was really rough but being in collage at the time gave me spare time to sand it in my dorm.
cluster3.jpg

This is after I sanded it down and started to use spotting putty to finish filling the small low spots that were left.
cluster4.jpg

The shootout was there before I had finished it so I painted it and installed it with no gauges. This is the finished product still need to paint it again. I only had one gauge laying around for mock up.
cluster5.jpg

With our APSX WIDEBAND readout installed
cluster6.jpg
 
.060 is ALOT of pth clearance.. ive always ran .010.. which is obviously made in the rod.. never heard of such a high number
 
LOL i fudged that up badddd.. i meant .010 in the hole. i misread and mistyped.. which on most head gaskets would be around .053 pth clearance.. as long as when its warm the quench is around .040 its good
 
So yea would have been around .053 then. I need to mock up this thing some time and check. Or take it into work and measure it with our deck hight gauge . I think its going to end up around 0 deck as I decked the block in school before i had the rods but thay are .010 shorter than stock length.
 
yeah this would be where a taller headgasket would be correctly used.. some people dont understand that a big quench area created when doing that actually promotes detonation more than higher compression LOL . what compression were u going to run?
 
The pistions we have now are only 10.5 I would like to get in the 12 to 13 range with it. We don't want to go too high as me might be putting the bottle to it sometime and not just a 75 shot. Detention shouldn't be an issue with the methanol.
 
nice. sounds like my street car. 11.5 c/r, lots of nitrous. jets in it now are only 60~. once i find the right ratio for e85 and the fuel pressure ill be at then ill jump it up.. whatever it takes to get it over 1000hp
 
We are shooting for 500 if we spray it. I don't think we will be able to make more than that. Because once you fill the plenum there's physical no more room for nitrous. This is well documented in the v8 world especially in the small tire world.
 
We are changing to some real coolant hoses this year. Last year we had clear plastic hoses on to make it to the shootout. We had some of the hose and weld bungs the radiator still need the welding finished but that's a separate post as we took the plastic tanks of a stock civic core and built aluminum ones.

This shows the clear hoses we were running last year.
20130914_182112.jpg


Ordered the two weld bungs from Summit.
184913_195405623822419_5260328_n.jpg


Some weld pictures of the almost finished parts the lower pipe that still need a bracket built for it.
384519_322286354468076_1807797083_n.jpg

210650_209653585731354_3885525_o.jpg


For the upper, we still need to weld a 4 AN bung to replace the energy drink can with our orange go kart fuel line on it.
220883_209654135731299_6354097_o.jpg


This is the bracket we redid for the clutch reservoir. We modified the fire wall for the new intake manifold I have planned.
1048840_646261362070572_1429842824_o.jpg
 
We picked up a new seat it will be a nice change from the yellow plastic summit seat.
db0cc451-6b49-490a-8290-f3d9b290b336.png



The kirkey I picked this from a junkyard for $60 with a cover that's almost worn out.
IMG_20140309_122524.jpg


We took the dash out we have plans to replace the stock dash bar with tube and also the steering column with 3/4 .120 dom and a new quick release.
IMG_50742205942623.jpg

Be shore to like us on facebook
https://www.facebook.com/team8boltracing?ref=hl
 
Last edited:
The days of street driving this car are over for the most part 1 gallon fuel cell makes it hard to go any place. So there is no real need for the gauge cluster this is what I built to move the gauges off the A pillar and more into the line of sight.
I started with the stock bezel.
firstclusterpic.jpg

Then cut most of the depth off the back.
cluster2.jpg

Next I glued mold fabric to the back warping around the side.
cluster3moldfab.jpg

After that I applied a pollster resin (fiberglass) sorry no picture of this the next step was to use bondo to smooth it out the bondo set up a little quicker than I was ready for so the finish was really rough but being in collage at the time gave me spare time to sand it in my dorm.
cluster3.jpg

This is after I sanded it down and started to use spotting putty to finish filling the small low spots that were left.
cluster4.jpg

The shootout was there before I had finished it so I painted it and installed it with no gauges. This is the finished product still need to paint it again. I only had one gauge laying around for mock up.
cluster5.jpg

With our APSX WIDEBAND readout installed
cluster6.jpg

Use a thin transparent dark gray plastic film in front of our APSX G1 LED display "readout". It would look much better. See the video at:

[ame=http://youtu.be/CKCa_e8liDU]APSX G1 LED Display Project - YouTube[/ame]
 
Thanks for the idea I was just going to use the clear epoxy I use with my carbon fiber parts. What is that film normally used for?

If you go to a hobby shop, they must have a transparent colored PVC or plastic around 0.01-0.03" thickness. It blocks the sunlight and you can see it during the day.

Something like this would work
Search Results
 
We got the dashbar cut out. We also cut the core support off and have the tubeing for both of them. We also gutted the passenger door both door bars still need to be removed.
n6xL1fSzMF
The progress on the dash bar.
n6xkZPyzMj
What the stock dash bar looks like.
n6wscQSzLE
Cut lines on the door we used an air body saw that would have made quick work if we dident have a small air compressor most of the time was spent wateing for it to build pressure.
n6xkZPyzMj
Scrap from the dash bar and doors
n4CntayzGz
The core support ended up being 36 lbs we should be able to drop around 20 right here.
n6xrsoyzMu
How its sitting now we put the fenders back on could mock up the top bar that will hold them the bumber and head lights.
 
Did this build come to an end? I sat here and got extremely interested in it just to see the last post being 7 years old...
 
Did this build come to an end? I sat here and got extremely interested in it just to see the last post being 7 years old...
Yea it's on hold for the time being my brother got another 420a to daily. The block is currently together it just needs the head put on. I'm currently driving a neon. If you're on Instagram his is 8boltdsm and I'm 8boltracing.
 
Hell yea. Come to think of it, I think I already follow you both. I'd love to see that thing back together and ripping again! I just started getting mine race ready last night and am hitting the strip on Thursday. No way I'm running numbers like yours though with an almost complete interior.
 
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