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Drag Race Build KRATOS V2

TeamFury

Proven Member
688
422
Mar 5, 2008
Wakefield, Kansas
Sorry to hear about the turbo. What are your expectations on what they'll say? Think you'll run this turbo again or move onto something else?
From what I’ve read through researching when a shaft snaps it’s usually due to oil starvation at those kinds of RPM’s that is. I was feeding it from the head so maybe it wasn’t enough or had a moment where it caught an air pocket somehow. Comp recommends 30-40psi oil pressure once you start getting it up on the rpms and they provide a restrictor that is .018” for anything over that. Ball bearings turbos usually don’t need a lot of oil to keep them lubed I didn’t have any issues with the super 99 but that also had a bigger diameter hub shaft. So at this point I’m just going to see what they say I checked the turbo after every pass no signs it was seized up, no shaft play, no smoke out of the exhaust at the end of the pass. I’ll switch back to feeding from the ofh where my sensor is which also has my failsafe parameters activated and log crankcase pressure just for peace of mind never done that but at this point I just need to see what the car is doing. I will say if comp says I need to cover the entire cost I’ll be moving back to my original plan of a xona 9569s or just say screw it and wait for a used pte 7285 to pop up for sale. The second option would most likely be the end of my season due to the fact FP is so backed up from waiting on materials to build their turbos. I would like to give the comp one more try after I see what they recommend for a fix on my end because I’m telling you this thing was making way more jam than the super 99 did at the same boost level. Nitrous was shutting off at 20psi around 5400rpm and this was on a 50 shot and it hit 151mph @47psi. The super 99 I had a 100 shot on until 145mph and it hit 154 at 53-54psi with nitro assistance.
 

TeamFury

Proven Member
688
422
Mar 5, 2008
Wakefield, Kansas
So I got ahold of Comp last week and they said in 10 years Comp and the bearing manufacturer have never seen a failure like what happened to mine. How much I believe that not sure…. With that being said I was told the bearing collapsed. Customer service has been excellent and they replaced the Turbo free of charge and it should show up today or tomorrow. I took the the oil pan off, exhaust manifold, front case, dropped a few main bearings to inspect everything. I’m glad I did the bearings and race came out of the turbo oil drain, pan was full of cnc shavings. I got very lucky the oil pump looks good, the fp fikter coming off the head was clean so I think the quick shut down saved my butt for the most part. Center main showed I can finish the season but will need a fresh set this winter. It’s probably not a bad thing though because it’s time to swap in some arp mains, kiggly girdle and aluminum rods. At the end of the day I’m going to slap this turbo on, throw some cheap oil in it do like 3 heat cycles change the filters and oil and see how it looks. If it’s clean I’m sending it to finish the season. I’m looking at 9-12 more passes in 2 maybe 3 more track visits before it gets to cold here in Kansas not sure when the tracks close down haven’t been here that long. If all is well season end goal is backing up the 8 second pass and getting closer to an 8.5. Just looking forward still set on getting a xona 9569s or 10569s over winter just depends on what cars are running at WCF in super street this year.
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TeamFury

Proven Member
688
422
Mar 5, 2008
Wakefield, Kansas
Season has been over for over a month now. Got down to a [email protected] but just couldn’t get past the 1.6 60ft. The comp turbo definitely makes power that was only at 54psi of boost. At this point I’m quite sure I have a issue with either the trans or the converter leaning more towards the trans with these horrible 60ft times no matter what I try even a 125 shot didn’t help. With that being said I’ll begin ripping the trans and engine apart for inspection it’s been over 2 years at this point. I’m going to swap some Vader aluminum rods in the motor and add some arp main studs. I know dsmers are scared of comps but I’m still gonna try to sell it, if it doesn’t sell I have a backup turbo. Going back to 2019 on the trusty hx40 I’m sticking to my guns and followed through with the turbo I wanted after the super99 a Xona Rotor 9569S. I know the turbine wheel will flow more than the hx40 did and I need to take measurements of the compressor wheel to compare. I finished the season with a [email protected] 1.42-1.43 60ft. I thought long and hard on it and just looking at logs the 67mm just spools up 1000rpm sooner than both the 72mms I tried this season. Faster powerband=better short track the key to autos and makes it easier to go rounds. Not looking at any crazy changes over winter besides doing my best to upgrade the rear subframe for a 3KGT flavor. I can’t believe how compact these xonas are. It’s definitely a tight fit for the open T4 housing I have but I’m going to give it a try and see what happens.
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TeamFury

Proven Member
688
422
Mar 5, 2008
Wakefield, Kansas
Been a long 5 months since I posted last. So over winter I addressed a few things going over the car. 1st up was swapping in some Vader aluminum rods, kiggly girdle, arp main studs and put a fresh set of rings in the motor. During tear down I noticed the head experienced a small torch factor. I have no idea how long I’ve run the car like this but it’s fixed now.
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Next up was going through the trans. The 5 pack kiggly clutches held great for the past 4 years but I thought it was a good time to upgrade the entire basket to a nice kiggly one. After going through the baskets, o rings ect. I couldn’t find anything wrong. Also sold the 7% transfer gears and swapped standards back in. Next up was the valve body. I’m glad I tore this thing down. All these years I thought metro upgraded it well…. All they did was crank the line pressures and add in the plastic check balls. I found the pressure relief check ball deformed and stuck to the spring. So I swapped in a trans lab shift kit and on todays drive it was a completely different car. I could never get it to foot brake stall no nitrous higher than 3k it instantly shot to 3700! The converter also flashes much better, shifts better ect. Just a different feel.
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Next thing on the list was to upgrade the rear end. Natfab did an excellent job creating this 3KGT rear subframe. The pictures don’t do it justice and now I don’t have to worry about breaking as easily when I turn this thing up.
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Next up I fabbed up a full exhaust 3.5” flavor. I had to weld a 3” flange from the 4” on Morrisons downpipe. Then from the downpipe back I modified the aluminum exhaust to run out the back door. It sounds great to me and much quieter cruising the streets.

I made a few 2nd gear pulls and so far the car feels great. I had to add 7% of fuel over the hx40 map from 2019 and this is in gate pressure 40 psi. The factory full weight doors with power windows and mirrors are back on the car as well. My goal this year is to do more with less essentially. Obviously backing up the 8 second pass is my number 1 consistently. Towards the end of the year we’ll see what we are looking like. After 100 miles of street cruising 3-2nd gear hits on the gate I have a good conservative map in it. I’m comfortable enough to drive the 9 hours round trip to IFO in OKC this weekend to open the season up. No stall testing yet so it’s all just going with my gut and hoping a low 8 second car doesn’t show up hahaha. I’ll update my progress after the race. Boost on!
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awdmonster1904

15+ Year Contributor
739
293
Aug 23, 2007
Chino, California
Awesome work man!
Your build has gave me some advice! Thank you for sharing .
I have a super 99 on the shelf been having a hard time making my mind to swap it in vs the 6766…
Almost seams like it’s not worth the swap after reading your experience on the super 99 running out of steam ..
 

TeamFury

Proven Member
688
422
Mar 5, 2008
Wakefield, Kansas
Awesome work man!
Your build has gave me some advice! Thank you for sharing .
I have a super 99 on the shelf been having a hard time making my mind to swap it in vs the 6766…
Almost seams like it’s not worth the swap after reading your experience on the super 99 running out of steam ..
Thank you and I’m glad to hear my build thread has gave you some advice. Which version super 99 do you have and what hotside? There were a couple changes to the turbine wheel in size throughout the years.
I truly believe it was the huge turbine housing I had on the smallest turbine wheel they offered it with. I could be wrong but I think they changed it after about a year of production to a larger wheel.

Without personal experience with a 6766 it’s hard to say what to do. If it’s on the shelf why not give it a shot. Add 8-10% of fuel from the he mid range up and see what it does.
 

TeamFury

Proven Member
688
422
Mar 5, 2008
Wakefield, Kansas
Made the trip down to OKC IFO yesterday. Made 2 hits in qualifying, qualified number 1. Round 1 eliminations sprung a leak at the fuel tank. Guy I was paired with wouldn’t wait for me to fix so I was disqualified. The passes sided a 50 shot to stall up and about 20ft out it shut off. A-B tune-up conservative was 9.1 not too shabby. Uploaded some videos instead of having to write it all out. I’ll be back soon for more.
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craracer05

Supporting Member
348
63
Sep 29, 2005
Warren, Ohio
Made the trip down to OKC IFO yesterday. Made 2 hits in qualifying, qualified number 1. Round 1 eliminations sprung a leak at the fuel tank. Guy I was paired with wouldn’t wait for me to fix so I was disqualified. The passes sided a 50 shot to stall up and about 20ft out it shut off. A-B tune-up conservative was 9.1 not too shabby. Uploaded some videos instead of having to write it all out. I’ll be back soon for more.
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I didn't catch did you say you are or aren't running the taller transfer gears? I've been debating on which route to go for my setup.
 

TeamFury

Proven Member
688
422
Mar 5, 2008
Wakefield, Kansas
I didn't catch did you say you are or aren't running the taller transfer gears? I've been debating on which route to go for my setup.
I tried out the 7% gears last season. I swapped standard ratio back in the car over winter. I had quite a few personal discussions with Aaron Gregory on them so I figured it was worth a shot. From my findings if you aren’t running a stroker motor or hitting we’ll say 9800+ RPM going through the traps it’s not worth it. The hardest part about the auto is finding the converter that fits your setup. I’m running a #8 precision from Jeff Bush kit 1G flavor and I was crossing the traps at just about 8850-8900 151MPH. If I were running the 7% gears still at this power level my RPM would have been roughly 82-8300. My peak torque no dyno to confirm just using my fuel map is right in the 7500-7700 range and my car makes peak power just north of 9K. The 7% gears 2-3 shift would drop me out of my power curve making me run slower. I see a lot of guys go straight for the number 6 precision converter and it’s honestly to tight for them. Kiggly shared some data with me that showed the difference between the 8,7 and 6 is roughly 300 rpm tighter between each one up top. It’s a long winded response but I do hope it helps you decide.
 

craracer05

Supporting Member
348
63
Sep 29, 2005
Warren, Ohio
I tried out the 7% gears last season. I swapped standard ratio back in the car over winter. I had quite a few personal discussions with Aaron Gregory on them so I figured it was worth a shot. From my findings if you aren’t running a stroker motor or hitting we’ll say 9800+ RPM going through the traps it’s not worth it. The hardest part about the auto is finding the converter that fits your setup. I’m running a #8 precision from Jeff Bush kit 1G flavor and I was crossing the traps at just about 8850-8900 151MPH. If I were running the 7% gears still at this power level my RPM would have been roughly 82-8300. My peak torque no dyno to confirm just using my fuel map is right in the 7500-7700 range and my car makes peak power just north of 9K. The 7% gears 2-3 shift would drop me out of my power curve making me run slower. I see a lot of guys go straight for the number 6 precision converter and it’s honestly to tight for them. Kiggly shared some data with me that showed the difference between the 8,7 and 6 is roughly 300 rpm tighter between each one up top. It’s a long winded response but I do hope it helps you decide.
That makes sense I'm starting on the #8 from Jeff, and planning on going 2.0L long rod. I'm still looking for a set of standard gears. Jeff has been back ordered on them for months.
 

TeamFury

Proven Member
688
422
Mar 5, 2008
Wakefield, Kansas
It's been awhile since I posted any updates but I finally got the car back out after 4 months. One thing I never messed with before was the camshafts and I had a feeling it was time to mess with them. I went ahead and bought a degree kit so I could get the cams to manufacture specs. My intake cam ended up retarded 4* and the exhaust advanced 2* to get true zero. I took a quick spin but couldn't tell by the butt dyno and it was also 95* out so not much help. The true test was going to be a visit to the drag strip. Before that though my kryptonite has been that dang 60ft so I disabled the AEM 2 step in favor of the trusty old ARC 2. Did a few test stalls in my driveway and ended up at 4400 RPM for a good start point.
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Fast forward to September 2nd it's testing day. The forecast was hot high 80's, DA 4,000ft and the tracks elevation 1200ft above sea level. I only point this out because at this level it definitely affects how the car performs. First hit off trailer 9.06 new PB on the Xona and I let out prematurely no big deal it happens. Take a look at my log and notice my AFR's pretty lean, prior in cooler temps and lower DA my target AFR was 11.4-11.6, with the cam's zeroed out they were now 12.3-12.4 in 2nd and 3rd a little too lean for my liking but I'm sure the renegade pro e85 saved my ass it's good fuel. Add 7% fuel from 6K up and raise the shift rpm from 9300-9700 RPM. I went ahead and raised my launch RPM to 4500. Then I said what the heck I'll retard the intake cam 2* and see what happens. 2nd hit as soon as it shifted into 2nd the car hits fail safe for AFR's. It ended up hitting 12.5 AFR thank you fail safe. Add another 7% worth of fuel and head to the starting line now the sun has went down and we're right about 80* and 3500ft DA. Get Kratos on the 2 step wait for the green light and send it..... Oh it felt so smooth just going through the traps. Didn't think much of it get my ticket the guy says nice run, I take a look at the ticket and bam finally got a 1.38 60ft huge accomplishment never had a 1.3 before and then a new PB [email protected] The car picked up almost 3MPH with the cam adjustment alone. My AFR's right around the 12.0-12.1 range still too lean for my liking and average boost through all 3 gears was 47 PSI, 3rd was 49. The Xona picks up a PSI in each gear for me but I'm solely using wastegate duty cycle. The track was about to shut down so like I said from the beginning of the season I would only increase boost when I got the 60ft dialed in. I raised duty cycle from 27% to 31% and left my nitrous settings alone 70 shot for the 60ft duration which is over in the blink of an eye. It took off like a bat out of hell 1.38 again boost 50 PSI at 9700 RPM 1st, hit 2nd and fail safe again hit 12.5-12.6 AFR and shut down. So the extra 2 PSI of boost leaned the car out 1/2 point which is an insane airflow pickup for such a small increase of boost.




I am going to lower wastegate duty back to 27% and play with the cam gears a little more to see if more gains are to be had. The one thing I have been holding back on is installing a back pressure sensor so that's on my to do list. Next track date will probably be in 3 weeks. I had the shootout on the calendar but with diesel fuel still ridiculously high and a move in the next few months it's off the table. There is 2 more IFO events the one in Topeka on October 30th the forecast should be great for PB's and then November in Tulsa, OK I want to take a try at. I'm 0-2 in Oklahoma but the turnouts are always good there for a payout which I could use for sure.

In closing it was awesome to get a PB on a smaller Xona 9569S and finally back the 8 second pass up after 16 months. Up to this point it has taken patience, analyzing a crap ton of data and trying new things to get to this point but it's finally starting to pay off. I'm hoping to end the season with some more PB's as we work our way to the kill tune-up which I should mention peak timing is only 11* at 9600 RPM should have wiggle room once we find out where max boost is on this turbo. Thanks for reading and keep the forum alive, ton's of great information even if it's 12-14 years old it still applies to today.
 
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92GSXtacy

10+ Year Contributor
226
8
Sep 7, 2008
Sevierville, Tennessee
Any idea what the car weighs race weight? I scanned the thread and may have missed it! Awesome job!
 
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