97 eclipse

[TheRippedNerd]

Dear lord i love this car, Brian O'Connor would be proud, RIP

 

[JeffGS-T97]

Been very busy getting all bugs worked out of the mechanical aspect of the engine. Went for a couple of back road pulls and about had a heart attack!
I finished my last pull and looked at the dash the oil pressure guage was right at zero.
Luckily I realized i had messed around the oil housing and probably damaged the pressure signal wire. Turned out to be the case. The initial shock freaked me out. Kind of a boring story but a good lesson to learn. Not everything is the worst possible scenario, we catch a break every once in a while.

 

[JeffGS-T97]

Other than that the car feels very fast. I got some serious gains from my latest mods and has more power than ever before. Got to get to the dyno so i can slay some v8's when the occasion arises

 

[JeffGS-T97]

Dear lord i love this car, Brian O'Connor would be proud, RIP

Thanks, glad you like it. Made a 3 year plan for the build when i bought it and a few large reachable goals.
-repaire restore engine with stronger internals
-double factory horse power
-give the appearance a personal touch and put the OEM spoiler back on it.
- lastly i have leaned the build toward a road course setup just incase i decide to get back into doing a few Autocross events each year (not likely way too expensive).

 

[JeffGS-T97]

Well perfect driveability status was short lived . My tune kept defaulting to base every time I turned off the car and the radio and gauge presets did the same. After a bit it dawned on me to check the radio fuse and it was most certainly blown. Finally getting lucky on some easy cheap fixes. Checked the resistance and draw and it looks like it all is sending the correct current which tells me there's not a short somewhere that blew the fuse probably went bad after 25 years of service.

 

[AWD-Tony]

I’m a huge fan of inexpensive fixes

 

[92AWDHX40]

jIts coming along memories of driving through muncie on the way to bloomington and indy, went to a party there once, and a had good friend got Ball State.

 

[StrovenM_DSM]

Got the boost leak tester all mounted up for the final test after i put it all together.
View attachment 604027

I have never seen one of these before. Does it stay on permanently or only to test if your boost is leaking and do you take it off after?

 

[JeffGS-T97]

I have never seen one of these before. Does it stay on permanently or only to test if your boost is leaking and do you take it off after?

You clamp it to the turbo infeed and hook it to a compressor and charge the system to find any leaks that may occur. If using a copressor be sure not to over charge the system and cause damage.

 

[JeffGS-T97]

I have never seen one of these before. Does it stay on permanently or only to test if your boost is leaking and do you take it off after?

Also have some kind of relief valve to bleed off the air. If not unhooking the t-clamp will cause the boot to shoot off the turbo possibly hitting you other parts or wiring.

 

[StrovenM_DSM]

Also have some kind of relief valve to bleed off the air. If not unhooking the t-clamp will cause the boot to shoot off the turbo possibly hitting you other parts or wiring.

thats interesting thank you!

 

[JeffGS-T97]

I have put out a thread on this subject in the wiring section. I figured I would post it here as well to have a better chance to get the info I need.
So I have this ground wire attached to a screw on he intake manifold. my ignition is acting funny so I started hitting the wires in the system with my multimeter. this section of wire has no current flow end to end. Can I run a normal ground wire and delete this wire or is the barrel section on the wire end required as like some sort of resistor? Any help will be very appreciated.

 

[JeffGS-T97]

I was relocating my expansion tank and discovered my charcoal can has a multiple leaks in the cylinder itself which explains a vacuum issue ive been chasing. I have decided to delete the can assembly and blocked off the lines going to the intake mani. there is what i believe to be the gas tank vent hose that i did not block off.
***Should I leave this line as is or is there a better route i should take for this connection?***
any advice is welcomed, I would like to make sure this is acceptable before turning the motor over thanks guys!
Here's what I got going on right off the firewall with the canister removed:
View attachment 631568

 

[JeffGS-T97]

Decided to run the tank vent into the passenger wheel well out of the engine bay. I tapped a fitting through and ran the hose from the vent hard line up to the fitting.View attachment 631640
The canister was trashed and the check valve was split wide op which is where the vacuum leaks I have been chasing down were.
View attachment 631641
Also fixed a on and off misfire that ended up being the Ignition resistor pack module. Installed the new one got the vac leaks fixed, reset the ecu and reloaded the tune and man does it idle good.
View attachment 631642

 

[JeffGS-T97]

Well the next issue has poked out its ugly head yesterday. Jumpy RPMs under load, slow accel, lean mixture in boost. It's not the trans or clutch the AFR bottoms out with the rpm spikes come. I think i narrowed it to the ECU
or the stand alone. From my research it is probably liquid leaking in the ecu and caused a short. I Hope it is that simple.

 

[AWD-Tony]

That sucks man! Sounds like a bad gremlin to chase down

 

[JeffGS-T97]

I got the board out of the ECU housing and there is yellow residue and a dull coating in spots. Im trying to think of how to clean it or if it can be. I read that stuff is caused by the caps on the top side and can cause issues with the board circuits. Not sure how accurate that is.

 

[AWD-Tony]

I got the board out of the ECU housing and there is yellow residue and a dull coating in spots. Im trying to think of how to clean it or if it can be. I read that stuff is caused by the caps on the top side and can cause issues with the board circuits. Not sure how accurate that is.

Start a thread. I’m sure someone would know.

 

[JeffGS-T97]

Found a broke resister between R255 and R42. Bout to solder it back not sure if this is the culprit but it seems promising

 

[JeffGS-T97]

some pics of my findings
View attachment 633084
the broke resister link below
View attachment 633085

 

[JeffGS-T97]

The broken resister was been soldered and volt tested for continuity and passed. The resistance on it falls into the factory spec.
View attachment 633176
The chip board and contacts have been fully cleaned. To do it right I stripped the board of its protective coating and will need sealed again.
Shout out to DSMPT for the information of what to coat it with.
This is the stuff I will be using, I had to order the stuff so the car has to sit a little until I finish the ECU. Board had zero shorts or burns so i have faith the ECU will do its job well.
View attachment 633177

 

[JeffGS-T97]

The Acrylic Conforming Spray came today and the ECU is now coated. From what I understand the product has best results 24h + of cure time. It is an ECU so I will go a few hours after.
If anyone sees anything I should not have coated please let me know, I have never coated an ECU and am still questioning if it is done right. Heres some pics of what I masked off.

 

[JeffGS-T97]

I have been doing some changes to my IC piping mostly shortening the tube after the Intercooler to TB. Also revised the joint off the turbo exit getting rid of a straight coupler for a long 45° coupler and cut the pipe into a better position so there is less stress on the boot and makes a much better seal. This area always turns into a leak and i finally gave in and revised the area.

 

[JeffGS-T97]

I was checking out some strange wiring that had been done prior to my ownership. This is the top ecu plug and from what i can tell is that the source wire coming from the ecu is for the front bank 02 sensor. Does anyone know why they would splice this area and run this yellow wire all the way back to the fuel pump positive?
The smaller green wire goes to a built in air vent digital 02 sensor voltage readout, I guess as a way to track AFR without the use of a wideband, which I have since remedied with a real AFR gauge I installed.

 

[AWD-Tony]

That doesn’t make sense. The only thing I can think of is that they used that wire as a trigger for a fuel pump relay. And why,