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97 eclipse

Year
1997
Model/Trim
Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

JeffGS-T97

Supporting Member
484
249
Mar 22, 2019
Muncie, Indiana
Been very busy getting all bugs worked out of the mechanical aspect of the engine. Went for a couple of back road pulls and about had a heart attack:oops:!
I finished my last pull and looked at the dash the oil pressure guage was right at zero.
Luckily I realized i had messed around the oil housing and probably damaged the pressure signal wire. Turned out to be the case. The initial shock freaked me out. Kind of a boring story but a good lesson to learn. Not everything is the worst possible scenario, we catch a break every once in a while.
 

JeffGS-T97

Supporting Member
484
249
Mar 22, 2019
Muncie, Indiana
Other than that the car feels very fast. I got some serious gains from my latest mods and has more power than ever before. Got to get to the dyno so i can slay some v8's when the occasion arises☠️
 

JeffGS-T97

Supporting Member
484
249
Mar 22, 2019
Muncie, Indiana
Dear lord i love this car, Brian O'Connor would be proud, RIP 🙏
Thanks, glad you like it. Made a 3 year plan for the build when i bought it and a few large reachable goals.
-repaire restore engine with stronger internals
-double factory horse power
-give the appearance a personal touch and put the OEM spoiler back on it.
- lastly i have leaned the build toward a road course setup just incase i decide to get back into doing a few Autocross events each year (not likely way too expensive).
 

JeffGS-T97

Supporting Member
484
249
Mar 22, 2019
Muncie, Indiana
Well perfect driveability status was short lived LOL. My tune kept defaulting to base every time I turned off the car and the radio and gauge presets did the same. After a bit it dawned on me to check the radio fuse and it was most certainly blown. Finally getting lucky on some easy cheap fixes. Checked the resistance and draw and it looks like it all is sending the correct current which tells me there's not a short somewhere that blew the fuse probably went bad after 25 years of service.
 

JeffGS-T97

Supporting Member
484
249
Mar 22, 2019
Muncie, Indiana
I have never seen one of these before. Does it stay on permanently or only to test if your boost is leaking and do you take it off after?
You clamp it to the turbo infeed and hook it to a compressor and charge the system to find any leaks that may occur. If using a copressor be sure not to over charge the system and cause damage.
 

JeffGS-T97

Supporting Member
484
249
Mar 22, 2019
Muncie, Indiana
I have never seen one of these before. Does it stay on permanently or only to test if your boost is leaking and do you take it off after?
Also have some kind of relief valve to bleed off the air. If not unhooking the t-clamp will cause the boot to shoot off the turbo possibly hitting you other parts or wiring.
 

JeffGS-T97

Supporting Member
484
249
Mar 22, 2019
Muncie, Indiana
I have put out a thread on this subject in the wiring section. I figured I would post it here as well to have a better chance to get the info I need.
So I have this ground wire attached to a screw on he intake manifold. my ignition is acting funny so I started hitting the wires in the system with my multimeter. this section of wire has no current flow end to end. Can I run a normal ground wire and delete this wire or is the barrel section on the wire end required as like some sort of resistor? Any help will be very appreciated.
 

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JeffGS-T97

Supporting Member
484
249
Mar 22, 2019
Muncie, Indiana
I was relocating my expansion tank and discovered my charcoal can has a multiple leaks in the cylinder itself which explains a vacuum issue ive been chasing. I have decided to delete the can assembly and blocked off the lines going to the intake mani. there is what i believe to be the gas tank vent hose that i did not block off.
***Should I leave this line as is or is there a better route i should take for this connection?***
any advice is welcomed, I would like to make sure this is acceptable before turning the motor over thanks guys!
Here's what I got going on right off the firewall with the canister removed:
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JeffGS-T97

Supporting Member
484
249
Mar 22, 2019
Muncie, Indiana
Decided to run the tank vent into the passenger wheel well out of the engine bay. I tapped a fitting through and ran the hose from the vent hard line up to the fitting.
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The canister was trashed and the check valve was split wide op which is where the vacuum leaks I have been chasing down were.
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Also fixed a on and off misfire that ended up being the Ignition resistor pack module. Installed the new one got the vac leaks fixed, reset the ecu and reloaded the tune and man does it idle good.
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