2G 96 gst still wont start

[racingmason]

i still can't get this car to start. Heres a lil background on the car. I bought it a month ago with a blown tranny, went to look at it, car started right up in -10 degree weather. Took the car home tried to start it nothing, just cranked and sputtered. Replace trans, and charged battery and i get the same thing. It will crank and crank, it sputters tries to start, but wont. i have seen the tach jump to 600 rpm when it tries to start and then back to zero.

I bench tested the fuel pump, and it works fine, i even replaced it with a walbro 255lph out of my mustang. I have good compression, and fuel pressure is good. The pump works fine, i popped the fuel line off the rail and had my friend crank it to see it the line was clogged, and i got fuel to the rail. I have spark, the plugs are good too, when i pulled them they are wet with fuel, but the cyclinders are not flooded.

All 3 timing marks line up, the maf is cleaned and plugged in. I check to make sure the map, tps, crank, sensors are all plugged in. No inhooked vaccum lines either. I am at a complete loss as to why it wont start.

 

[OLI19]

Here's a tip. And this is for all cars. Usually if the car starts up fine either cold or on its first time and won't do it again chances are its an electronic problem. Sensors are the place to look. Not the battery. One instance, is when the car starts up fine when cold and runs great and then you turn it off and try to start it again when its warmed up the car threw a code but was a minor code like a MAF or IAT code and now you can't start it. Second is you started it and there is a major code and it stores in the ECM and now you have to "zap" the ECM to erase the code or if you have a scanner then it will tell you the code. If you don't, watch the engine light when you turn the key on but not started. if the light comes on (normal) and then goes out after 5 secs, there is no code. Hope that helps

 

[racingmason]

i wasn't born yesterday, the car doesnt start at all, it tires to but it sputters. Today im going to start ohming out sensors.

 

[1gdsmftw]

are you getting spark?

and hes just saying that the ecu stores a code that could be an issue with the car and prevents it from starting again...

 

[TeamFury]

check out your coolant temp sensor, I have read peoples car not starting because of that sensor just floods the cylinders and not a strong enough spark. Now I had the exact same problem as you and it ended up being a bad ecu, So if you havent already done so pull the ecu and check to see if the caps are leaking just a suggestion if you havent already. It sounds like you know what you are doing so I am just giving a cpl pointers for ya helping you brain storm! As for the sensor do your ohm test and see first and if you have access to a different known maf then swap it out and see if that works, not sure if that wouldnt make the car run at all though

 

[racingmason]

Its still dark out, where is the ecu at center consel, kick pannel, under carpet? I dont feel like waiting till its light outside

 

[razrman8]

Ecu can be located by removing either the driver or passenger kick panel. After you pull the panel, just look up in there, you should be able to spot it out with ease. Though, if you are trying to take it out, you would have to on the drive side. As for that is where the plugs for the Ecu are located.

 

[racingmason]

ok here is a link to the video i made of it trying to start. Also the firint order is correct. YouTube - 1996 Eclipse Gst Wont Start

 

[razrman8]

I got your PM. Sounds like she is just not firing. Are you positive you have spark?

 

[racingmason]

yes i do. i pulled the ecu out popped the cover off and the capacitors look fine, it doesnt smell or anything of that nature.

 

[razrman8]

How did you test for spark? When you turn the key, do you hear the fuel pump kick on?

 

[racingmason]

i grounded the plug wires with the plugs in them while it was cranked. To test for fuel, i unhooked the line from the rail and put it in a cup, and while my friend cranked the engine over i had fuel come out. Also the plugs go in dry and come out wet.

it is just so weird its acting like the car is 180 degrees out of time, but nothing was touched to affect that, im going to ohm the plug wires when i get a new battery for my multi meter.

 

[razrman8]

Do you have access to a compression tester? I would try a compression test to be on the safe side. Not to say that that is the problem, but just for reassurance.

 

[racingmason]

i mite have 2 buy a new one, this one mite be bad.

 

[razrman8]

I would try that. It is just one more thing that you can eliminate from the list of possibilities.

 

[racingmason]

ok went out and re did the compression test, i didnt add any oil to the cyclinders. #1 = 106 #2 = 128 #3= 105 #4= 129. Lower then i would like but its not whats preventing it from starting. Like i said though this craftsman tester has been used 2 other times, and it gave weird low readings before, compared to my dads.

 

[razrman8]

I would say those are low. Get a different tester and try it again.

 

[ridelowandslow]

sucks man.. don't want to intrude on you, but mine isn't starting either, but then again, last night i did a Throttle Body Coolant Bypass and a wire tuck and i have a few extra wire connectors laying around, but i also have a 6 bolt swap done into mine and i was told some of the wires could be the EGR?

 

[racingmason]

New compression tester #1 = 142 #2= 155 #3= 145 #4= 159

 

[magik95]

Your problem sounds like one I just had a few weeks ago. My car was acting the same way would not start just crank and sputter like yours.

Its been said already to check the ECT. Check the connector to it, my ECT checked out fine so I was lost. Then I checked the wires at the connector and one wire had broke inside the isnsulation. Fixed it propblem solved.

 

[racingmason]

ok i found a broken wire, its shredded, and its inside the harness that goes to the front 02 sensor. but its not one of the 4 that go to the connector by the thermostat housing where the 02 connector is. I pulled back the insulation but didnt find a wire color yet. is there 5 wires in that harness?

ok i got it to start well sort of, it chugs and chugs and chugs at a 300 rpm idle with the pedal to the floor, the wire that appears to be ripped i thnk is a ground wire? i grounded it to the trans and it got a bit farther. ill up load a vid

 

[magik95]

Thats your problem. Its one of the wires that go to the ECT. On my car there are two wires to ECT one is black/white the other is black.

They are in the same loom but are seperated. One loom goes to the o2 the other goes to the ECT. Find the wires in the two wire loom and fix them that should cure the problem.

There are six wires in that loom, But like I said two go the ECT.

 

[racingmason]

Thats your problem. Its one of the wires that go to the ECT. On my car there are two wires to ECT one is black/white the other is black.

They are in the same loom but are seperated. One loom goes to the o2 the other goes to the ECT. Find the wires in the two wire loom and fix them that should cure the problem.

There are six wires in that loom, But like I said two go the ECT.

but the way this was routed it was going to the 02 harness, i peeled back the insulation and there is not a broken wire to the ect. Now it is back to being a pos and not sputtering. ill check it out tommorow again. Its something electrical, as i got spark and fuel. Can't i rule out the ect though as when i un hook it and crank it over, the fans kick on immediately after i try to start it, so i know the ecu is getting a signal from it. Someone from the springs needs to come here and help me

 

[magik95]

Can you post a pic of your harness where the frayed wire is?

 

[ridelowandslow]

Your problem sounds like one I just had a few weeks ago. My car was acting the same way would not start just crank and sputter like yours.

Its been said already to check the ECT. Check the connector to it, my ECT checked out fine so I was lost. Then I checked the wires at the connector and one wire had broke inside the isnsulation. Fixed it propblem solved.

one of the wires at the ECT connector had broken on my car. started right up after i fixed it