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1G 6 bolt block refresh

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AWD-Tony

Proven Member
6,801
3,735
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
I got lucky and just blew a head gasket. Cylinder walls look good but the fire ring made some marks on 2&3. Between 2&3 was the low spot on the block so I wasn’t surprised that’s where it let go.

I’m not sure how much power I want to make, 500 or 600 max. I believe it’s now making low 400 awhp.

Should I just refresh the block or build it? Let me know tour thoughts.

Thanks
Tony

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Have the block decked and then you won't worry about it. Throw a 320 grit Flex Hone in the cylinders and you are good.
If "built" means a set of rods and pistons and a girdle then you are looking at about 1k there. If you just want to refresh what you have, rings, bearings and gaskets would be only be looking at somewhere around 300.00 - 400.00 depending on the HG you want. I would have the head freshened up too. Can't give a estimate there Tony, as my machinist closed up and went to work for Cessna. He used to charge around 300.00 to hot tank, surface, do the valves and seats and put new seals in. Since I just got done with my sons 7 bolt short block, some of those numbers are pretty close. Best of luck to you my friend!!! :thumb:
 
I was pricing it out and it was getting close to 2k so I might go with just a refresh. I’d love to build it but the thought of dumping another 2k kinda makes me puke.

If I pull the front case and support the tranny, can I just pull the block off the tranny, or do I have to remove the tranny?
 
Sorry to hear that Tony, but at least it wasn't worse!

Its much simpler to drop the whole subframe with engine/trans together IMHO. I tried pulling the engine alone once, and I hated it.

Personally I'd build it if you're going to push it. Mind sharing your price list?
 
I’m glad it’s just that too Henry!!

Hmmm idk if I want to drop the subframe. I think there’s enough room on the drivers side once I pull the front case off, but I’ll see.

Just priced some couple of things on extremepsi
JE piston rod combo 800
L19 & mls 400
Kiggly girdle 100
Gaskets and machine work so I figured I’d be close to 2k

I knew that’s the low point on the block when I checked last time I rebuilt the head so wasn’t completely shocked, definitely disappointed BUT that’s the price we pay to play ROFL and make more powwwwaaaa :thumb:
 
That's a good price on the piston and rod combo, and the griddle is nice insurance if you're going to rev the pee wadding out of it. Personally I don't know if you'd really need l19s, especially with an MLS I think that the standard ARPs would clamp just fine if your block and head are decked correctly. If you are on a composite gasket I might recommend the l19s.

Otherwise your list does look pretty comprehensive, and machine work is probably going to be 6 to 800.

6 of one, half a dozen of the other! If you plan to keep the car and make some jam, I'd go for the extra personally, but the cost does add up.
 
It's just MONEY....... :ohdamn:
 
I know the feeling man, it's like you want to save money, but at the same time what else are you supposed to do with it? Haha

Kick it around and post back if you have questions. Maybe a refresh would be better at this time, and then build a motor with spare funds and time on the side?
 
Hey man I just tore down my “refreshed 6 bolt” that I ran for less than 2 years and put less than 3 thousand miles on. That motor lived with an fp red and then a dsm82 both of which were turned up to 34 psi or so with standard arp’s and an oem composite. I still have the gasket hanging on the wall in my garage, it never blew, my head was torqued to 110 ft/lbs, e85 and conservative timing. My point is upon a good check up from the machine shop if you can just throw in some new rings and bearings and get her back on the road:hellyeah:
 
Hey man I just tore down my “refreshed 6 bolt” that I ran for less than 2 years and put less than 3 thousand miles on. That motor lived with an fp red and then a dsm82 both of which were turned up to 34 psi or so with standard arp’s and an oem composite. I still have the gasket hanging on the wall in my garage, it never blew, my head was torqued to 110 ft/lbs, e85 and conservative timing. My point is upon a good check up from the machine shop if you can just throw in some new rings and bearings and get her back on the road:hellyeah:[/

Jeremy, where did you get replacement rings from?
 
Shoot man I don’t know, the machine shop ordered them, I’m sure they were top line or nippon or whatever, nothing special.
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Heres my receipt from the machine shop to give you an idea for a basic rebuild:thumb:
 
Shoot man I don’t know, the machine shop ordered them, I’m sure they were top line or nippon or whatever, nothing special.
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Heres my receipt from the machine shop to give you an idea for a basic rebuild:thumb:

Wow that’s a big chunk of cheddar. Thanks for sharing buddy. I was originally thinking of doing the assembly myself but now I’m second guessing myself since this will be my first.
 
I hear ya, this shop did a great job, I’ll be using them again for my current build, I only did the stock rebuild because at the time I didn’t have an extra $1000 for rods and pistons, but to me it was worth the money having it assembled by pros who do it for a living
 
I'll be pulling the block this weekend and hopefully have it disassembled and ready for machine shop next week. Can't afford pistons and rods at the moment. Here is the parts list I have so far.

$500 machine work
$200 HG
$160 Rings
$40 Rod Bearings
$70 Main Bearings
$335 OEM Gasket set
$225 L19 (undecided)
$43 Rod bolts (undecided)
$75 Main Studs (undecided)

Head was resurfaced last year and looks to be straight, but they'll check that.

Would you reuse the stock hardware for mains and rods? And let me know if I've left anything off.
 
I have a spreadsheet for gaskets that you need. Print it out if you want and see if you can save any $ by only getting the gaskets you need.
 

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Thats what I was thinking Tony. I usually pick and choose my gaskets. Always OEM for front case and OFH. I can do Felpro on alot of other stuff. Used them in small block chevys for years. Just wanted you to be able to compair and pinch a penny if you could. :thumb:
I personally run Cometic MLS, HKS MLS and Felpro composites. Just my stuff, not everyones and depends on the build.
I left off (forgot) the Mr Gasket (now Cometic) Copper exhaust manifold gasket I use on almost every build so I'll get that # too you for you to see.
M
 
Yup. Thanks Marty! My exhaust mani gasket is fairly new so I’ll just reuse it. Many of the seals and gaskets are new but I’d obviously have to replace the paper gaskets.

Ready to bring block and crank to the machine shop. This might be a dumb question since I’m already here. Would you reuse these bearings? I don’t want to go through checking oil clearance. I know ptw clearance is important also.

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So I’ve decided to go with 85.5 wiseco hd 8.5:1 and eagle H beam rods that I’ll be ordering in the next few days. My crank was fine so machine shop just polished it.
All my main journals are between 2.235” - 2.238” and rod journals are 1.7710” - 1.7715”, basically all within spec. I’ve read some threads and it seems .0025” is the oil clearance to go with (factory .0008” - .0020” for main & rod). My block is currently at the machine shop and I didn’t measure the crank bore on the block. Would it be safe to order all the bearings now? If so, which size bearings? I’m going with acl tri metal.

Also, what’s the oil clearance for eagle rods?
 
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Put new bearings in. If it was running, it will still run. New rods will be the right size. You know I always check everything but you can just pit it together. Its gonna work. It needed bored I assume Tony?
 
Put new bearings in. If it was running, it will still run. New rods will be the right size. You know I always check everything but you can just pit it together. Its gonna work. It needed bored I assume Tony?

Not sure. I was originally going with just new rings and bearings but I changed my mind and told to hold off until I get new pistons. Doesn’t new pistons come with a spec sheet that tells you the ptw clearance? When ordering bearings, it gives 4 options. Just not sure which to go with on extremepsi website.
 
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