2G 2g with 1g head with 1g intake manifold

[1dohc6]

Bought a 97 gsx and have been having a fun time trying to get it to idle normal.

I was pulling the 1g intake manifold off so I can put a 2g intake manifold on but the the intake side on the head looks to be port matched to the 1g intake manifold. I wanted to put a new intake gasket and put a 2g intake manifold on but now I’m not too sure what I should do.

Also it has Evo 560 pink top injectors in it. I thought I had a set of stock injectors but can’t find them in my hoard. The first time I looked at the car it had ECMLink in it and when I finally bought it and got it home I noticed no more ECU with ECMLink, instead it had a 95-96 ECU. I don’t have a spare 97 ECU I do have a black box ECU from a 99 gst. Any input is much appreciated

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[Justin DuBois]

Yes engine at tdc cam gear dowel pins are at 12 o’clock when picture was taken. I turned it 180 degrees so it’s in the correct position now. Still only will start with the plug wires reversed.

Yup - By putting the CAS in the correct orientation, you changed the injector sequence, not the spark. Spark cannot be put into phase with the CAS. You can either swap the coil trigger wires (triangle plug) or change where you plug in the plug wires on the coil pack.

 

[1dohc6]

Yup - By putting the CAS in the correct orientation, you changed the injector sequence, not the spark. Spark cannot be put into phase with the CAS. You can either swap the coil trigger wires (triangle plug) or change where you plug in the plug wires on the coil pack.

Cool thanks for clarifying that I was searching the forums last night to learn a little more about what happens if it’s 180 degrees out. I’ll check the coil pack wiring today and give an update.

So, a recap…

2Gb ECU, harness, CAS. Won’t start without spark plug wires swapped for mismatched ECU and CAS - meaning spark plug wire order was 3-2-1-4 per the above diagram, to start.

Tried 2 ECUs. (1997 and black box 1998-1999)
Swapped harnesses (both 2Gb)
CAS was 180 out.

Removed and reinstalled CAS trigger wheel to correct orientation and the car still won’t start without the spark plug wiring order as 3-2-1-4?

That doesn’t make sense. Check the wiring at the coil pack to make sure the wires at the connector to the harness are going to the correct coils? That’s about all I’ve got. Even that seems implausible because the wires are different lengths and really only go to one spot. Not impossible, but unlikely.

Ok here is a picture of the coil pack I have maybe you might be able to tell if the wiring of the coil pack looks normal looking at the back of the coil in the picture it is 3214 from left to right.

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Here’s a picture of the front

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Harness side

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[pauleyman]

Here’s a picture of the front

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Hold up.....from the FRONT...what is the firing order when it runs right. IF it's 4123 that is the stock and correct firing order. Reversed order is 2341. If you didn't alread know it doesn't matter between the pairs. 1432 is the same as 4123 because you fire only one coil to two wires. You always swap pairs

 

[1dohc6]

Hold up.....from the FRONT...what is the firing order when it runs right. IF it's 4123 that is the stock and correct firing order. Reversed order is 2341. If you didn't alread know it doesn't matter between the pairs. 1432 is the same as 4123 because you fire only one coil to two wires. You always swap pairs

It only runs when it is 3214. The picture below is from the car I got the harness from its how I’m trying to get mine to run 4123 but will only actually fire up and run when it’s 3214

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[19Eclipse90]

So, the wiring looks correct but the two coils have been swapped which makes the numbers on the coil mount irrelevant.

Here’s one I have. The wiring at the triangular plug looks like it matches.

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But the wires to each coil looks like it is opposite of what mine has. That is, the blue with black goes to the coil for cylinder 2 and 3. The solid blue goes to the coil for 1 and 4. Also note the coil for 1 and 4 in my pictures has the two wires going to it’s lower post. That wire is on the coil from 2 and 3 on your set.

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You mentioned having another coil pack - did you try it? Or at least compare the two you have?

This all goes to say that mechanically, it is correct other than they were mounted to the bracket improperly. Swap ‘em and go.

 

[1dohc6]

So, the wiring looks correct but the two coils have been swapped which makes the numbers on the coil mount irrelevant.

Here’s one I have. The wiring at the triangular plug looks like it matches.

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But the wires to each coil looks like it is opposite of what mine has. That is, the blue with black goes to the coil for cylinder 2 and 3. The solid blue goes to the coil for 1 and 4. Also note the coil for 1 and 4 in my pictures has the two wires going to it’s lower post. That wire is on the coil from 2 and 3 on your set.

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You mentioned having another coil pack - did you try it? Or at least compare the two you have?

This all goes to say that mechanically, it is correct other than they were mounted to the bracket improperly. Swap ‘em and go.

I compared the two and they are the same but both coil packs did come with the car from the guy I bought the car from he included a lot of extra parts. I’m going to pull the coil pack off the 97 parts car and check that one’s wiring and if it’s like yours I’ll try it today when I get off work and give an update.

 

[1dohc6]

So, the wiring looks correct but the two coils have been swapped which makes the numbers on the coil mount irrelevant.

Here’s one I have. The wiring at the triangular plug looks like it matches.

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But the wires to each coil looks like it is opposite of what mine has. That is, the blue with black goes to the coil for cylinder 2 and 3. The solid blue goes to the coil for 1 and 4. Also note the coil for 1 and 4 in my pictures has the two wires going to it’s lower post. That wire is on the coil from 2 and 3 on your set.

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You mentioned having another coil pack - did you try it? Or at least compare the two you have?

This all goes to say that mechanically, it is correct other than they were mounted to the bracket improperly. Swap ‘em and go.

Third coil pack that’s wired like yours worked didn’t have to reverse the plug wires order guess I can’t always trust spare parts

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Now I need to do some searching for ideas to mount everything on or near the 1g intake and clean up the engine bay a little bit more.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Now I need to do some searching for ideas to mount everything on or near the 1g intake and clean up the engine bay a little bit more.

Use a 1G coil pack - fits inside the curl of the 1G Intake manifold runners - plugs ends facing the drivers side shock tower

 

[1dohc6]

Any idea what this noise is?

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[Justin DuBois]

Any idea what this noise is?

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Dead timing belt tensioner?

 

[1dohc6]

use a 1G coil pack - fits inside the curl of the 1G Intake manifold runners - plugs ends facing the drivers side shock tower

I made modifications to the 2g bracket. Here’s a video at idle only code I have is P0141 it idled fine then warmed up and doesn’t want to stay on with out tapping the throttle.

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[1dohc6]

Dead timing belt tensioner?

Just pulled the timing cover off to snap some pictures. The distance between the tensioner arm and the tensioner body is around 9mm.isnt it supposed to be like 3.8mm I could have swore I used to use a number 4 Allen to check this gap I included a picture of my Allen in the digital caliper.

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[tstkl]

from memory the factory spec is 3.8-4.5mm. 9mm is definitely too large.

Are you still using the evo pink top 560cc injectors with a stock ecu designed to run on 450cc injectors? Because if you are, you need to change that in addition to figuring out any potential issues with the ignition system.

 

[19Eclipse90]

Assuming the pic of the tensioner pulley is as seen from a normal point of view, the orientation (position of the two holes) is wrong for a 2G block, perhaps contributing to the tensioner over extending. See: How-to: Timing belts and TDC (long writeup)

 

[Justin DuBois]

the pic with the pin removed and the hole visible and not aligned tells a story.

Your Timing belt tension is too loose. When you have it adjusted right, the grenade pin will slide out easily, and the hole in the plunger will be aligned with the hole in the body.

BTW, if you are measuring a gap for tolerance, the pin must be installed

 

[1dohc6]

from memory the factory spec is 3.8-4.5mm. 9mm is definitely too large.

Are you still using the evo pink top 560cc injectors with a stock ecu designed to run on 450cc injectors? Because if you are, you need to change that in addition to figuring out any potential issues with the ignition system.

Yes still running Evo pink tops on stock ECU. I’ll have to try to find some stock injectors then. Thank you I tried searching before and seen others ran stock ECU with evos. But I’ll find some stock ones.

Assuming the pic of the tensioner pulley is as seen from a normal point of view, the orientation (position of the two holes) is wrong for a 2G block, perhaps contributing to the tensioner over extending. See: How-to: Timing belts and TDC (long writeup)

I have that write up saved on my phone. And yes it’s at normal point of view this is just the picture I took as is I need to find my timing tools and I’ll readjust the tension and post more pictures after

the pic with the pin removed and the hole visible and not aligned tells a story.

Your Timing belt tension is too loose. When you have it adjusted right, the grenade pin will slide out easily, and the hole in the plunger will be aligned with the hole in the body.

BTW, if you are measuring a gap for tolerance, the pin must be installed

Correct the pick is as is haven’t done anything with the tensioner yet just wanted to show you guys how it looks as it is before I readjust the tensioner. I’ll update once I set the tensioner just need to search for my tensioner pulley tool. And if for some reason I keep having issues I’ll just order a new tensioner, tensioner pulley and idler pulley and might as well throw a new belt on while I’m doing all that. Thank you for the reply.

 

[1dohc6]

the pic with the pin removed and the hole visible and not aligned tells a story.

Your Timing belt tension is too loose. When you have it adjusted right, the grenade pin will slide out easily, and the hole in the plunger will be aligned with the hole in the body.

BTW, if you are measuring a gap for tolerance, the pin must be installed

I readjusted the tension timing marks all lined up pin goes in and out easily rotated crank 6 revolutions waited 30 minutes and the pin still slides in and out and goes through all three holes but I’m not too sure on the tensioner pulley orientation at no point with the two holes on the pulley facing down was the belt tight and the pin wouldn’t go it as soon as it does get tight the two holes are on top and the pin will go in and out.

Assuming the pic of the tensioner pulley is as seen from a normal point of view, the orientation (position of the two holes) is wrong for a 2G block, perhaps contributing to the tensioner over extending. See: How-to: Timing belts and TDC (long writeup)

Can’t get the belt tight with the two holes facing down only up.

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[DSMPT]

Can’t get the belt tight with the two holes facing down only up.

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Because you have a wrong tensioner pulley. You are using a 1g tensioner pulley on a 2g tensioner arm. The 2g tensioner arm must be used with a 2g tensioner pulley.

 

[1dohc6]

Because you have a wrong tensioner pulley. You are using a 1g tensioner pulley on a 2g tensioner arm. The 2g tensioner arm must be used with a 2g tensioner pulley.

What do I look for to tell the difference between a 1g pulley and 2g tensioner pulley. Also is there a way to tell if it’s a 1g 7 bolt by looking at the timing side?

 

[1dohc6]

I have these spare parts any way to tell if the pulley is for a 2g. The mount bracket on the right looks like a 2g that was cut to clear water pump for a 6bolt block in a 2g swap @DSMPT

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[19Eclipse90]

1G on the left, 2G on the right.

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[1dohc6]

1G on the left, 2G on the right.

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Ok so this one is 2g. I just seen these on stms page don’t know why I didn’t think of doing that earlier thank you for the pictures.
@19Eclipse90

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[DSMPT]

What do I look for to tell the difference between a 1g pulley and 2g tensioner pulley. Also is there a way to tell if it’s a 1g 7 bolt by looking at the timing side?

I have these spare parts any way to tell if the pulley is for a 2g. The mount bracket on the right looks like a 2g that was cut to clear water pump for a 6bolt block in a 2g swap @DSMPT

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Please refer to the link below for the differences 1g vs 2g pulley and arm.
As for the 1g 7 bolt, if you have the 1g 7 bolt, you should see that you have a 1g water pump and a 1g tensioner arm.

2G - Timing belt blues

Hey gang, got some questions about a timing belt change.Why would I have to undercut the tensioner arm so the tensioner pulley would rotate enough to get proper 25 in lbs?This would be rotating the pulley counterclockwise, now, just for shits and giggles I rotated the pulley in a clockwise...

www.dsmtuners.com

 

[1dohc6]

Please refer to the link below for the differences 1g vs 2g pulley and arm.
As for the 1g 7 bolt, if you have the 1g 7 bolt, you should see that you have a 1g water pump and a 1g tensioner arm.

2G - Timing belt blues

Hey gang, got some questions about a timing belt change.Why would I have to undercut the tensioner arm so the tensioner pulley would rotate enough to get proper 25 in lbs?This would be rotating the pulley counterclockwise, now, just for shits and giggles I rotated the pulley in a clockwise...

www.dsmtuners.com

A lot of good info in that link thank you.