2G Solid Crossmember bushings

[Boosted98gsx]

LOOK GOOD! As long as corrosion isn't a factor, I would definitely be interested!

 

[97gst_spyder]

+1 Looks great!

 

[greengoblin]

So nice. We will have to get together here soon on some bushings for the lower engine cradle.



Kevin

 

[black_gst]

LOOK GOOD! As long as corrosion isn't a factor, I would definitely be interested!

as was discussed already i dont see corrosion being an issue. look at your alloy wheels bolted to your steel hubs? do you see any corrosion there? how many years have your alloy wheels been bolted to your hubs.

 

[black_gst]

So nice. We will have to get together here soon on some bushings for the lower engine cradle.



Kevin

cool let me know kevin

 

[bmoha2]

That is exactly what I was thinking of when I refferred to galvanic corrossion. I had a bi*** of a time getting my wheels off years ago when I did the first brake job on it. Galvanic corrossion is a chemical welding process. Even since I have always had a very thin layer of antiseize on the hubs. And there is some pitting on the backside of the stock wheels.

 

[black_gst]

so approx 14 years of salty roads and the corrosion is minor correct?

i could make these out of steel of someone wanted them and was really worried about corrosion they will be a bit more expensive mostly because machining will take some more time... id say about another $30 for the differential bushings and $40 more for these poly subframe bushings.

or just lather the antisize all over when you press the Aluminum ones in

 

[spydergotboost]

also really quick for the person that asked awhile ago about FWD rear bushings there are NO bushings in the rear subframe of a FWD car and the front subframe is the same for AWD and FWD anyone that has done the FWD conversion to AWD can confirm all of this.

 

[black_gst]

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i was thinking of ways to try and make some of these more cost effective and my thought is to eliminate the lower spacer entirely on these. the job of the lower spacer in OEM form actually holds the subframe up. but since the bushings itself it solid the main bushings now can do that. so i dont see a need to incorporate that into the solid bushing design

this would save a few bucks on the machining end as well as material costs and i could lower the price about $20 for the rear subframe bushings.

anyone have any thoughts on this?

 

[mattasi]

Is there anyway I can get a drawing with dimensions for the front subframe solid alum bushings?

 

[97gst_spyder]

Black_gst - Are you still making the poly subframe mounts?

 

[snowborder714]

Doesn't sound like they will give out the drawings.

I'm not going to post the specs on the fronts since I co developed those with Adam.

 

[arrowhead]

Would mounting them w/o the top washer and doing the same thing w all bushings ,it should lower the body by that same amount this would be for a race car only.

I dont see any major drawback,any feedback.

arrowhead

 

[black_gst]

Black_gst - Are you still making the poly subframe mounts?

the rear ones? shoot me a PM

Would mounting them w/o the top washer and doing the same thing w all bushings ,it should lower the body by that same amount this would be for a race car only.

I dont see any major drawback,any feedback.

arrowhead

hmmm, I never thought of doing that, i dont think completely removing them would be a good idea, but making a thinner top might not hurt in the rear. The problem in the front is one of the bushings tops is already only 1/8" thick so you really cant lower it much more

 

[arrowhead]

the rear ones? shoot me a PM



hmmm, I never thought of doing that, i dont think completely removing them would be a good idea, but making a thinner top might not hurt in the rear. The problem in the front is one of the bushings tops is already only 1/8" thick so you really cant lower it much more

Which one is thinnest ?

I see probabilities of even lowering the body even more by reworking the socket where the bushing goes.

I have been looking at this but have not gotten to my suspension yet on my project.

Any input would be wecome

Thanks
arrowhead

 

[black_gst]

Which one is thinnest ?

I see probabilities of even lowering the body even more by reworking the socket where the bushing goes.

I have been looking at this but have not gotten to my suspension yet on my project.

Any input would be wecome

Thanks
arrowhead

Well I'm talking about the front subframe one of the tops is only 1/8" thick

the rears are all .23" thick if i remember right.

I don't see how you could "rework" the socket. on the front or rear subframes.

 

[greengoblin]

It would change your pinion angle if you move the rear. At least for the AWD guys. I thought about this a bit when I built the first set.

 

[arrowhead]

It would change your pinion angle if you move the rear and not the front. At least for the AWD guys. I thought about this a bit when I built the first set.

Mine is a fwd so I would not have that problem.

Even on the AWD you would have to measure the inclination the stock set will give you compare against the new ones and it looks like there would not be that much difference and safely you can run up to 7 degrees from what you have now,
look at the monster trucks.

Only a though.

 

[greengoblin]

Mine is a fwd so I would not have that problem.

Even on the AWD you would have to measure the inclination the stock set will give you compare against the new ones and it looks like there would not be that much difference and safely you can run up to 7 degrees from what you have now,
look at the monster trucks.

Only a though.

But they don't run three piece drive shaft that have funky carrier bearings.
I'm not saying that it will not work since I never tried. I justed decided it was not worth the 1/4 inch or so I would gain. It would also effect inboard pickup points since it would move them up. Maybe I'll look at it again here before to long.