250 whp with stock turbo?

[99ECLIPSEGSXDSM]

Is there anyway to upgrade the hp in a 99 gsx to 250whp with out swapping out the T25 turbo besides doing major internal work? i read the stage 1 upgrades but i really dnt want to upgrade the turbo just yet cause i drive it everyday and i need it to last awile longer before i get another car so i can swap the turbo out later on!

 

[MrBoxx]

I suppose everyone's got to start somewhere.

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

I suppose everyone's got to start somewhere.

Somewhere like Google or the Search function.. What happened to how we had to learn?

 

[99ECLIPSEGSXDSM]

i have ngks spark plugs and wires with apexi n-1 cat-back in the mail. i dont have a datalogger or a aftermarket boost gage and i havent checked for boost leaks. all the parts look in great condision but i guess it still wouldnt hurt to look and check... what would i use to check for boost leaks if you dont mind me asking!?! moneys not to big of a deal and plus i dont want to put cheap parts on my car (not that any part listed was cheap)... from wut i can tell the only thing the car really need is a new valve cover gasket and i should b good to go

 

[EclipseTical]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...se-troubleshoot-boost-leak-tester-merged.html

 

[LiquidX]

Before you start modding, get all of your maintence and repairs done.

Boost leak test, fluid changes (oil, tranny, xfer, rear diff, coolant), full timing belt (belt, pulleys, tensioner, balance shaft belt if not eliminated), bad sensors, broken parts.

Boost gauge should be your first mod, you should be on NGK BPR6ES plugs at a 0.028 gap, also you should not be running more than 15psi on the T-25 regardless if you would have an upgraded fuel system or not.

BOVs, most BOVs are able to be recirculated. If you can get a 1g BOV that would be good or even Greddy type S or NRG Type S. The RS BOV is complete crap and I went through 2 diaphragms and had to basically RTV the whole inside to stop it from leaking.

Use a spray bottle with soapy water to look for your boost leaks and you are most likely leaking at your injector seals and throttle body shaft seals. If the PCV is leaking only use an OEM unit and you can also get one of these to help 3/8" Kynar® Standard Check Valves | U.S. Plastic Corp.

Vacuum lines are also good to get replaced if they weren't already. They become dry and brittle and possible have pin holes or cracks.

 

[dented_coffee]

I thought I might share what I made for under $10. All of the parts are brand new. The only thing extra that I did was sprayed the 1.25 inch PVC cap with spray on adhesive to help prevent it from poping off and possibly hurting someone. The gauge on it allows me to view how fast im loosing pressure to determin how severe my leak is, and to moniter how much air im compressing in my system. Some people might like to use a portable air tank. I do because someone walked off with my tire chuk for my air hose .

I have pressure tested this unit by its self with another PVC cap to make shure it would hold pressure and not leak (a pressure testing unit that leaks is as usless and a bike with no wheels). My boost leak tester held in at arround 35psi for a few hours untill I released the pressure myself. Im shure it will hold more as there was no leaking and no signes of stress. But I will never run past 20psi of boost ever again so it will be perfect for what Im using it for.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Elek_ron_ix]

Before you start modding, get all of your maintence and repairs done.

Boost leak test, fluid changes (oil, tranny, xfer, rear diff, coolant), full timing belt (belt, pulleys, tensioner, balance shaft belt if not eliminated), bad sensors, broken parts.

Boost gauge should be your first mod, you should be on NGK BPR6ES plugs at a 0.028 gap, also you should not be running more than 15psi on the T-25 regardless if you would have an upgraded fuel system or not.

BOVs, most BOVs are able to be recirculated. If you can get a 1g BOV that would be good or even Greddy type S or NRG Type S. The RS BOV is complete crap and I went through 2 diaphragms and had to basically RTV the whole inside to stop it from leaking.

Use a spray bottle with soapy water to look for your boost leaks and you are most likely leaking at your injector seals and throttle body shaft seals. If the PCV is leaking only use an OEM unit and you can also get one of these to help 3/8" Kynar® Standard Check Valves | U.S. Plastic Corp.

Vacuum lines are also good to get replaced if they weren't already. They become dry and brittle and possible have pin holes or cracks.

+1 Follow the steps above, very sound advice to having a heartache free modification path. In the end it all comes down to proper maintenance. Read the tech articles and help forums. Good Luck!

 

[Khadaw66]

T-25 will be good to about 230 whp, and thats maxing it out with supporting mods. The only downside is that boost will drop to about 12 lbs by the time it hits redline. 14b's is a cheap upgrade and will hold 20+ lbs to redline. I ran a 14b years ago and manage to run a 13.5 at 103 mph at 18 lbs...not bad considering my best run was 14.2 at 96 with a t-25.

 

[98blackeclipse]

T-25 will be good to about 230 whp, and thats maxing it out with supporting mods. The only downside is that boost will drop to about 12 lbs by the time it hits redline. 14b's is a cheap upgrade and will hold 20+ lbs to redline. I ran a 14b years ago and manage to run a 13.5 at 103 mph at 18 lbs...not bad considering my best run was 14.2 at 96 with a t-25.

Know how much HP were you running on that 14b at 18 psi