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1Gb Talon Rust Revival

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didn't do much on the car this week. I'm having a friend weld up my intercooler piping and weld in the new bungs/flanges for me. Hopefully that will be done this week and I can get them in the car. Or I'll go get them and some other little stuff powdercoated. I did have some new brake/fuel line brackets fabricated as the existing ones are badly rusted/pitted.
 
This weekend I wanted to take care of a few small things. As I mentioned above, I had new brake/fuel line brackets fabricated for me. these ones are a little thicker steel and should last.
brakelinebracketsbefore.jpg


But I wanted to make sure, so I prepped them, then POR15'd them. that oughta keep them from rusting again. I will coat them in flat black topcoat next weekend when they are fully cured.
brakelinebracketsprep.jpg
brakelinebracketspord.jpg

Here's a little trick I have recently thought of to keep my POR15 re-usable. I drill two screws in the top...one for pouring, the other for air while pouring. If you do a lot of this type of work, get yourself a box of cheap chip brushes. they are something like 50cents/each. Don't waste money on brushes since you can't reuse them anyway.
portrick.jpg
brushes11.jpg


I also decided to pre/paint the ac cover thing I made awhile back to match the overall aesthetic.
accover2.jpg
accover.jpg
 
Finished up the brackets I POR'd last weekend. Topcoated them black.
bracketspainted.jpg

I decided I wanted to get the new door hinges installed. this meant removing the fender liners, and ultimately the fender to get to the bolts for the hinges. Of course, underneath was pretty grimey. I took this opportunity to give it a good degreasing and scrub-down. I always clean like this when I remove something. You never know when you'll be able to clean it again. this fender has never been off the car.
Before:
dirtyfender.jpg

After:
cleanfender.jpg


This lead me to see that the rust had eaten away and left a hole underneath the cladding on the fender. Lovely.
rustycar2.jpg

and the fender itself...good thing I have a spare I purchased many years ago.
rustyfender.jpg


Anyway, onto the initial task.
i removed the hinges one by one and cleaned underneath, wire brushed and primed and painted to offer some more protection. the hinge area was in great shape, with minimal rust forming anywhere. Just a little surface rust underneath the hinge itself.
paintedhinge.jpg
doorhinge2.jpg
newoldhinges.jpg
newdoorhinges.jpg
 
Got my UIP back from welding, so that was the focus of the day.
icpipedonebefore.jpg


a test fit...
testfiticpiping.jpg

The tial flange and an IAT sensor bung added as well...
icpipebung.jpg

I needed to add a bead to the ends before anything else...I used this tool, modified to do it.
icpipetoolbefore.jpg

I used a cutoff wheel to cut out the middle a little.
icpipebeadtoolafter.jpg

Leaves a bead like this.
icpipebead.jpg

Primed and painted matte black with a 2k clear for protection.
icpipedone.jpg
 
Installed the new piping this weekend. I don't have a clamp big enough for the TB so I have some on the way. Installed my sensor and new Tial BOV as well.

uipafter.jpg


Next up was installing the passenger side door hinges. Time consuming getting all the fender well plastic and fender off. Easy, but tedious.

Here's a pic of how badly the driver's side fender is rusted away compared to my replacement fender too. Been sitting on my replacement fender for about a decade now because I just knew this day would come where I'd need it.
fenderrust.jpg


Anyway, back to the hinges...removed them one by one and took care of the surface rust underneath.
hingesurfacerustbegore.jpg
primeredhingearea.jpg
passhingesdone.jpg


I then took the time to adjust both doors so they close as smooth as silk now. Seems the main adjustment hinge is the bottom one. In fact, I had to helicoil the driver's side bottom most bolt hole because it wasn't in good enough condition to snug the bolt in tight. Not a big deal, but it's perfect now.
helicoilhinge.jpg
 
Dude, you're amazing. I have a low mile 2g Spyder that needs this kind of love. It's not turbo or AWD so I'm having a hard time getting started but damn, im so impressed by your tenacity. Please keep the updates coming.
 
A few things done this weekend...first, I decided to teach myself how to weld. Bought a welder and all the accessories needed and will practice until I'm at least proficient enough to do it on the Talon. Something I've been meaning to learn for many years.
welder.jpg


Anyway, got that all setup, then I decided to get rid of this old crank pulley.
oldcrankjpulley.jpg


I've had a Fluidampr sitting around in a box for awhile and since I had the plastics off again, now was the time. Pretty easy. 4 bolts and done. I replaced the stock bolts with longer ARP bolts and washers. Now, I need a new alternator belt, so I have one on order.
fluidampr.jpg
fluidamprvsold.jpg
fluidamprinstralled.jpg

Since I had that rust on on the front, underneath the lower fender, I decided I may as well pull the side skirts and see what I had going on under there. Not as bad as I had anticipated, but something to deal with. I gotta say though, that stock body moulding tape is seriously hard to get off. Even after 30yrs, this shit was holding like you wouldn't believe.
rustyquarter.jpg

Sanded it down to see what I was dealing with.
beforerustyquarter.jpg

I'll be using stainless mesh and body filler for this, but I wanted to prepare it first. That means...you guessed it. POR15. Sanded, etched, then POR15 on both sides of the panel.
por15rustyquarter.jpg

I also blasted this sideskirt clip and POR'd it too. I didn't take a before pic, but it was in pretty rough shape.
blastedsideskirtclip.jpg


Also, does anyone know if this tape is a double-sided adhesive tape or if it's just a weather stripping tape?
paneltape.jpg

Next week, I'll be taking care of that rear panel and filling it in.
 
Last edited:
Mwn I por 15 a lot and cut out rust still have work to do with w welder guy here in town . I'm feeling very good about the dsm.
 
Last week I finished up that body panel. Getting the rust and holes repaired. Now, I am NOT a body guy. I don't have much experience in it, but wanted to try some things and see how it turned out. This area is underneath the sideskirt, so it didn't have to be perfect, but I wanted to practice like it mattered anyway.

I began with stainless mesh patch. this was a good area for it as I could get the mesh in between the panels.
stainlessmeshrepair.jpg


My next step was to use Bondo Glass for added strength. It has fiberglass strands in it to make it super hard. Then was sanding with 80 grit to make it super smooth and blended into the surrounding area.
bondoglassrepair.jpg
bodypanelrepair2.jpg


Next up was Bondo body filler to smooth the area out. Then sanding again to a super smooth finish.
bondorepair2.jpg
sandedbodypanel1.jpg


I decided I may as well repaint this entire area, and since the adhesive left over from the body tape was so damn strong, I sanded it all off. Since that took me to bare metal, I used some self-etching primer just on those areas...
sandedprimered.jpg


Then I used filler primer over the whole panel and sanded lightly to make smooth, followed by two coats base and two coats of clear. It's still kind of wet here, but I will eventually sand lightly and buff with rubbing compound to make it a mirror finish. I like to wait quite awhile before sanding clearcoat. I think it turned out pretty well. You can't even tell there was a repair made here.
primeredpanel222.jpg
panelrepairedandpainted.jpg


This weekend I replaced a lower cabinet in my garage with more drawers. I previously had a 2-door cabinet, but swapped it out for a 7-drawer cabinet. Lots more room now. So I spend time getting that all installed (My cabinets are floating so it took time). Then I spent most of my day today organizing and consolidating.
boltdrawer.jpg
cabinet1.jpg

I was able to get rid of all these bins in the process.
binsgottenridof.jpg
 
If you didn’t already get that adhesive off the side skirts then do yourself a favor and buy an eraser wheel… you can thank me later.

You have to keep it moving when getting it off otherwise you’ll burn the PUR.
 
Got my UIP back from welding, so that was the focus of the day.
View attachment 686467

a test fit...
View attachment 686469
The tial flange and an IAT sensor bung added as well...
View attachment 686465
I needed to add a bead to the ends before anything else...I used this tool, modified to do it.
View attachment 686468
I used a cutoff wheel to cut out the middle a little.
View attachment 686464
Leaves a bead like this.
View attachment 686463
Primed and painted matte black with a 2k clear for protection.
View attachment 686466

Can you get better pics of how you modified those pliers? I need to do the exact same thing to my IC pipes and don’t wanna pay $100+ for a bead roller.
 
If you didn’t already get that adhesive off the side skirts then do yourself a favor and buy an eraser wheel… you can thank me later.

You have to keep it moving when getting it off otherwise you’ll burn the PUR.
I have one I'll use for the plastics, but in this case it was quicker to sand it off since I knew I was going to paint the whole thing anyway. Call me lazy I guess. LOL.
 
Can you get better pics of how you modified those pliers? I need to do the exact same thing to my IC pipes and don’t wanna pay $100+ for a bead roller.
Yeah, I can grab a pic this weekend. Pretty simple really, use an angle grinder to grind away material at the center of the pliers when they are open. It allows you to push the end of the pipe further into the mouth of the pliers and get the bead further in from the edge of the pipe. Not necessary, but I'm picky like that.
 
Can you get better pics of how you modified those pliers? I need to do the exact same thing to my IC pipes and don’t wanna pay $100+ for a bead roller.
Here are those pics as promised. I clamped it to the edge of my workbench and used an angle grinder to remove material in the center like I mentioned above.

crimper1.jpg
crimper3.jpg
 
Ok, I'm back. Had to take some time away from the Talon because we got a new pup and he is a handful. Doesn't allow for much time to do much of anything. Having two dogs is dramatically more difficult than one well-trained dog. At least for now. I'm sure it will be easy later.
This is Ares...15 weeks old already.
ares.jpg


I purchased some JXB carrier bearings awhile back so I wanted to get those installed today. The install videos they have are on point. These items are super legit too. Very well built, and everything you need is included. I opted for the "street" stiffness which are a little bit softer (but stiffer than stock) because I want to limit as much NVH as possible at this point.

jxbcbs.jpg


They are a two-piece design, so you don't need to remove your driveshaft to install them. You simply cut your stock carrier bearings in half. One slice on each side, then cut the rubber using a razor blade to get the rubber part off.
Then you're left with this...

cbremoved.jpg
stockcbs.jpg


You install using their bushings and isolators and you're good to go.
jxbbinstalled.jpg
jxbinstalled.jpg


Overall, took me maybe 90min. You need to remove the hangers on your exhaust to get it out of the way but that's about it for removing stuff.
 
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