1G 1g timing marks line up?

[Blu90GST]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

They look like they line up but I'm a little anal... The crank mark looks off the slightest bit.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Better picture of the oil pump that looks slightly off also

 

[Blu90GST]

I marked them again because the po marked them below the actual marks.

 

[pauleyman]

You're right steve. The original marks are wrong. This isn't rocket scince. Line up the crank THEN look at the cams. Dont watch them. Just do it. If they don't line up I question either that its lined up at all or how far the head has been milled.

 

[Blu90GST]

I got it heres a pic. Cans line up I'll get a pic of those tomorrow

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

And what does the head being milled have to do with the cams lining up?

 

[steve]

What does the head being milled have to do with the cams lining up?

Milling the head (and decking the block) shortens the distance between the crank and cams.

 

[Blu90GST]

So if it was milled my timing would naturally be off a tad?

 

[pauleyman]

Yes. That's why there is a tolerance limit on machining. Pretty simple geometry. The distance between the crank around the oil pump and idler pulley to cams is fixed and never changes. The crank rotates clockwise so that distance is always fixed. We will ignore what the belt may do under load. So, kind of stands to reason if the head or block is milled timing will change slightly.

And I don't have feeler gauges or anything to check my tensioner gap. I just snug the pulley after tensioning with an Allen wrench and some vice grips and turn it over.

One last thing. You MUST MUST MUST MUST MUST MUST get the tensioner into spec. You do not need feeler gauges. A drill bit of proper size may be used as a go/no go gauge. This is NOT optional. Ignore this step and the tensioner cannot do its job. Too loose which is usually the case and the belt will jump time eventually. In severe cases on the first startup. This isn't hard, it's just tedious and for damn sure not optional.

 

[Blu90GST]

So will I be good if it not spot on? And do I just put a drill bit between the tensioner arm and the pin that comes out of the tensioner?

 

[steve]

I used the FSM method for the first belt I put on, but since then I only use the preload until the retaining pin becomes loose method.

When you have the rotated the tensioner pulley into the belt with the proper preload force the pin holding the tensioner compressed will become loose and you be able to easily move it around. Lock down the tensioner pulley bolt, rotate the crank 6 turns, and wait 15 mins.

If the pin still moves freely your good to remove it and finish up. If it doesn't then you need to re-adjust the preload and try again.

 

[Blu90GST]

That's how I checked mine when I pulled it this time. There was a little resistance after the pin came out of the back hole in the body of the tensioner but it still pulled out pretty easily

 

[pauleyman]

I use the method steve uses...but either way it is either within the measure or it isn't.

 

[Blu90GST]

Alright. Thanks everyone that helped me out a bit. I think I should be alright now. It just drive me nuts when they're not perfect

 

[steve]

So were these first two pictures showing the cam sprockets when the dowel pins were down an oops?

I think I read in another thread, that you didn't do the front balance shaft belt, did you get the rear balance shaft phasing correct?

 

[Blu90GST]

How do I do that?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

these are my cams at the same crank position as above

 

[pauleyman]

You need to quit zooming in so far. Cant tell crap from those pics.

 

[Blu90GST]

If I come back at all the power steering hose is in the way.

 

[92AWDHX40]

To make it clearer remove the power steering hose, for now.

 

[Blu90GST]

I don't want to make another thread but I started putting everything back together and my exhaust Mani won't go on. Here are a few pictures.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Would taking the bracket in the first picture off fix my problem? And also would I need to put it back on? Because I don't see it going back on very easily with the manifold on.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I dont know wtf your close ups are of but could it be your turbo stud in the way. Manifold should fit..... If you wiggle it

 

[Blu90GST]

They just showed the downpipe wasnt pushed up. and than the questionable bracket. I've tried that. It takes a prybar to even get the manifold on the stud.