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1G 1g timing marks line up?

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Blu90GST

Proven Member
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0
Sep 10, 2013
East Peoria, Illinois
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They look like they line up but I'm a little anal... The crank mark looks off the slightest bit.

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Better picture of the oil pump that looks slightly off also
 

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They look good from the pics, pull the grenade pin and crank her over like vfaq instructs you, and look at the pics again if your unsure.
 
I already cranked it 6 times and that's how it came out. Theres a massive gap between the head in the block that I just noticed looking at the cam sprocket sensor... I just replaced the head/ headgasket. Anyone have input?
 
I'm zooming in on my phone and I see it. It goes all the way around. From the left side to the right in the picture. I've read the vfaq a few times. Im just paranoid, this will be my dd for awhile.
 
Crank mark is a tooth off.

Take off timing belt.
Reset bottom crank mark.
Make sure v notch is aligned with notch on crank case.
 
The plate is in really bad shape plus the angle. I think they aligned pretty good. I'm trying again tomorrow
 
If you mean the gap here, that between the head and rocker cover not the head and block.

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Note that the rocker cover is cracked by the exhaust cam.
Also note that both the sprockets are almost a tooth too low so they are both off. The marks need to line up with the top of the head.
 

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Here are a couple better pictures. Do you think that maybe I just crankwt if a little too much causing everything to be off a hair, meanings timings still good its just not at tdc?

And the valve cover on the car isn't the one I will be running. I'm just using that one to keep it covered for the time being
 

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I would fix those oil leaks and replace the belt. Marks look fine. Belts degrade fast once oil gets on them.
 
Steve, its difficult to tell if both of those cam marks are low as the op is zoomed in so far. Crank did not look off to me either.

I went out and looked at the spare engine and there's far more parallax going on than I remembered, to be sure from these pictures.

The crank I'm cool with. If you back the crank up slightly both it and the oil pump will line up exactly but the cams are going to be off. The exhaust is going to be closer to the the head mating surface but the intake is going to be lower and perhaps enough to be off a tooth retarded.

It's too cold in the garage to play with the engine on the stand to verify and take pictures so I could be full of it, but it just doesn't look right to me.
 
if the outside marks on the cam sprockets line up with the top surface of the cylinder head to then the cam gears are ok the way they are .
 
I agree with Steve, those cam marks are off. The marks need to be at the closest points between the gears. Like so:

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if the inside marks on the cam sprockets line up with the top surface of the cylinder head to then the cam gears are ok.

Corrected (the outside marks are for when the sprockets are swapped since the exhaust cam is offset from the intake. They are not 180* apart)

If....
That's what we are discussing, if they do. To me it doesn't look like they do.
 
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Just started re-timing. Should these line up after tension is applied?
 

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Alright. Do they line up correctly though? To my eyes they don't but it's as close as I could get them.
 
To check if the cam gears are in position you can use a ruler, string, or anything straight and lay across all 4 cam gear markings. They should be totally lined up. When they are you can also see the level vs the head.


Like this:

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When they align you count 12 valleys until last 12th valley is filled with a belt tooth.


Like this:


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When done this way you never have to worry about the cam gears. Just snap on a few clips on each side and put the belt on the rest of the gears and you will see that the timing marks line up.
After that rotate the crank 1 step counter clockwise, then rotate the crank full 6 revolutions. Check the hydro tensioner gap, if OK pull the grenade pin.

Let it sit for 30 minutes and check the marks, the hydro tensioner gap.


Hope this info comes in handy.
 

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Is much better than

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Anyone else notice a something strange about these two at this point?

Perhaps if you see the bigger picture and note where the timing marks are in relationship to the arms of the sprockets and which is a tooth and which is a valley.

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Looks to me like the first two original pictures were taken with the dowel pins down....

@basshead
And Kim, as I mentioned you can't lay anything straight across all 4 cam gear markings. The marks are not 180* apart. The one mark is for when the sprocket in on the intake cam and is at 270* from the dowel pin. The other mark is for when the sprocket is on the exhaust cam and the exhaust cam dowel is something like 3.5* advanced to the mark is 90-3.5* or 86.5* (Turned out to be 3* 5' from the FSM)

The inner marks should line up if you run a straightedge through the cam centerlines. (which is where the top surface of the head happens to be)
 

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This is driving me nuts. I think the plate on my crank is off. I get 1/4 of a tooth off at the crank when my cams align on the 6th turn. Every time.

And I don't have feeler gauges or anything to check my tensioner gap. I just snug the pulley after tensioning with an Allen wrench and some vice grips and turn it over.
 
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