Street Build 1g build - The Real Life Trials and Tribulations of building a DSM

[Anfurnyy]

Take the whole mirror assembly, and turn it 180*. AKA look on the bottom of the assembly itself, on the outside. I think I have pictures in my build thread but gimme a few seconds, I gotta wade through almost 100 pages to find the one post.

Found 'em!

View attachment 767721

Circled in red is where I'm talking about. This is how it looks.

View attachment 767720

That's the screw.

Checked this and both were very slightly loose but didn't fix it.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Ordered up the miscellaneous fittings to get the clutch slipper installed. I still gotta figure out how / where to wire it in also.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Well I think I'm going to give up on my Shootout goal for this year and move to a more attainable goal.

That goal being to just go to any 1/4 mile track around here at least ONCE this year. The nearest 1/4 mile tracks are Julesburg, CO (4 hours away) and Thunder Valley in, Marion SD (5 hours away)

I don't have a truck or a trailer so it's pretty hard to ask someone to borrow theirs for pretty much a week vs just a day or 2 on the weekend.

Car is driving good still, did a small 2nd gear pull this morning and felt fine. First one I've done since getting the trans back together. Drove it to work 3 times last week so that's a win.

The tune still needs finished up and it's really my fault it's taking so long. Things breaking and weather here is weird, hard rain one day then it's 101° the next. Not exactly weather to be doing tuning in. Still need to get launch control, rolling antilag, boost by gear closed loop boost setup.

 

[Anfurnyy]

I also realize now too that since the battery is relocated I'll need to put in a Killswitch outside the car.
And to do that I've got to redo quite a bit of my alternator / battery wiring.. unfortunately.

Here's the plan:


Starting from alternator the route goes:
Alternator > battery + > battery + > kill switch > Killswitch > engine bay remote + post.

Fuel pumps I think could go on the switched side of the kill switch so they only get 12v while the switch is not triggered, as is everything else on the car. The remote post in the bay is what powers the original fusebox, my MPI stuff, fans, etc.

It think this idea should work.
Let me know fellas.

 

[1cleangsx]

Pretty sure that’s exactly how my setup is, only thing is when I switched to the 2 gauge feed for the alternator directly off the + post it’s always gonna draw from the battery, however it was really never an issue tho because I always just hit the kill switch whenever I got home, my car has been parked since last September and the battery still currently sits at 12.4 volts

 

[Anfurnyy]

Pretty sure that’s exactly how my setup is, only thing is when I switched to the 2 gauge feed for the alternator directly off the + post it’s always gonna draw from the battery, however it was really never an issue tho because I always just hit the kill switch whenever I got home, my car has been parked since last September and the battery still currently sits at 12.4 volts

I run 1/0 gauge for all big power and ground.

Good to know this should work though!

 

[Anfurnyy]

Oh forgot I picked some KillMat up too because streetcar.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Got some of the killmat done. I should have taken the rear paneling off but oh well. I hope this makes a significant difference in sound. Still gotta take the battery out and then do under the rear seats. That's probably all I'll do.

 

[92AWDHX40]

I use it too in my car good stuff.

 

[Anfurnyy]

So cool stuff.
Got the clutch slipper installed and somewhat tested.
Picked up a helmet for racing.


Initially it wasn't working for some reason. Pedal would come up fast, but push in really slow with the solenoid activated. Duh, obviously the lines are backwards despite the literal arrow in the valve showing the opposite.

Anyways, got the valve installed and bled again ( hopefully, probably going to bleed some more to be sure.) and did some testing and here were the results:


I still need to wire it to the ECU. It operates the same way that a boost control solenoid works so one wire needs to go to ground and one to power. Doesn't matter which side goes to which That being said, the ground will go to the ECU for it to ground. I think I need to use a relay though, unfortunately. So the ECU will actually ground the relay to activate it and that's how the solenoid will work.

I Still need to find some solid parameters for when the solenoid will activate and when it will turn off.
My goal here is to have it activated just for launches, and only in 1st gear and for it to not be activated outside of 1st gear at all under any circumstances. I don't want the clutch slipping while doing pulls on the street or further down the strip

I was thinking about activating with these parameters:
Wheel speed below 2mph
Clutch switch enabled
Throttle position above 90%

And then throw a delay on it of about 2 seconds or so so after any of the conditions are broken (most likely the clutch switch) then it will start a 2 second countdown to turn the solenoid off, during that time the valve will regulate how fast the slave/ clutch returns. The clutch / slave should return well before the 2 seconds is up meaning the clutch will be FULLY engaged before the solenoid is deactivated (2 second timer) which means it doesn't matter if it's activated or not. I don't think I'll be out of 1st by 2 seconds so it won't be activated when I shift from 1-2.

If anyone has any recommendations for some parameters to use, please let me know or recommend.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Finished getting the KilMat installed where I could without taking the interior panels off.

Made it as far as the edge of the back seat and that's where I'm going to stop for now at least. Hopefully this helps with the drone I have which isnt AWFUL but it could be better. If I need more, I've got enough to do probably one half of what's left of the car.

This process wasn't hard but it was a decent amount of work. Mostly just rolling everything down.


Gotta get the car back together for a cars and coffee by Saturday morning. And then after that it's time to do the battery re-wire, everything came in for it. I plan on putting it just to the right of the rear license plate, above the reverse light.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Finished getting the KilMat installed where I could without taking the interior panels off.

Made it as car as the edge of the back seat and that's where I'm going to stop for now at least. Hopefully this helps with the drone I have which isnt AWFUL but it could be better. If I need more, I've got enough to do probably one half of what's left of the car.

This process wasn't hard but it was a decent amount of work. Mostly just rolling everything down.
View attachment 768474View attachment 768475

Gotta get the car back together for a cars and coffee by Saturday morning. And then after that it's time to do the battery re-wire, everything came in for it. I plan on putting it just to the right of the rear license plate, above the reverse light.

I was thinking about getting into this project when fall rolls around, how much time do you have into it so far? My Thermal has gotten louder over the years. Not enough to annoy me just yet, but enough for me to thnk to myself "God damn thats loud.."

 

[Anfurnyy]

I was thinking about getting into this project when fall rolls around, how much time do you have into it so far? My Thermal has gotten louder over the years. Not enough to annoy me just yet, but enough for me to thnk to myself "God damn thats loud.."

Doing as much as I did without removing panels and what not I would say I'm about 4 hours in

 

[Anfurnyy]

Picked me up some Tuners stickers and put them where they belong.
I'll try to do anything I can to help support this forum. Honestly my car wouldn't be anything near what it is without the people and information on this website. Incredibly thankful.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Also managed to get to the cars n coffee on Saturday morning.

Local photographer got a picture of me rolling up

 

[1cleangsx]

That’s an awesome shot

 

[CrackedDSM]

Also managed to get to the cars n coffee on Saturday morning.

Local photographer got a picture of me rolling up
View attachment 768664

That thing is a wolf in sheeps clothing man. Gorgeous. Love me some 1GAs!

 

[Anfurnyy]

That’s an awesome shot

That thing is a wolf in sheeps clothing man. Gorgeous. Love me some 1GAs!

Thanks fellas for the kind words!

 

[Anfurnyy]

Well, the battery re-wire AGAIN has commenced. Pain in the butt like it always is.

Biggest thing right now is getting the remote shut off switch mounted and installed.
Removing the rear bumper is the most frustrating thing I've done on this car to date. Broke all but 2 screws that mount the bumper. After I broke them I was able to use vice grips, heat and penetrating oil to break them loose and manually unscrew them. I'll have to get some new bolts for them.

I think I'm going to mount the switch to the rear crash beam and the switch should stick out right above the passenger side reverse light.

 

[Capt Obvious]

Dude, removing the rear bumper is WAY more work than it needs to be on these things! I was shocked by how much effort it was to remove it from my car.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Dude, removing the rear bumper is WAY more work than it needs to be on these things! I was shocked by how much effort it was to remove it from my car.

No doubt. It really sucks haha. Sucks that the tail lights have to come out too. Makes a lot more work for me since I have to remove the battery box in order to remove the trim back there.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Well, the battery re-wire AGAIN has commenced. Pain in the butt like it always is.

Biggest thing right now is getting the remote shut off switch mounted and installed.
Removing the rear bumper is the most frustrating thing I've done on this car to date. Broke all but 2 screws that mount the bumper. After I broke them I was able to use vice grips, heat and penetrating oil to break them loose and manually unscrew them. I'll have to get some new bolts for them.

I think I'm going to mount the switch to the rear crash beam and the switch should stick out right above the passenger side reverse light.

View attachment 768754View attachment 768755

I was going to help a local by giving him the rear bumper off the parts talon for free but then I looked into it and noped out. Screw that. Lol.

 

[Anfurnyy]

I was going to help a local by giving him the rear bumper off the parts talon for free but then I looked into it and noped out. Screw that. Lol.

You did yourself a favor I'm really not exaggerating. The only thing that has come close is steering rack bushings. Sway bar with new bushings. Those were a b*tch.. and I've pulled the dash 3 times too.

 

[dwb]

The only thing that has come close is new steering rack bushings. Those were a b*tch.. and I've pulled the dash 3 times too.

So you're saying the steering rack is harder to remove than the dash? I R&R my rack 3 times but never the dash, which is on my list for a new heater core. I'll avoid the rear bumper cover, thank you very much.

 

[Anfurnyy]

So you're saying the steering rack is harder to remove than the dash? I R&R my rack 3 times but never the dash, which is on my list for a new heater core. I'll avoid the rear bumper cover, thank you very much.

Not just removing it, but installing with new bushings was definitely harder than removing the dash.

So you're saying the steering rack is harder to remove than the dash? I R&R my rack 3 times but never the dash, which is on my list for a new heater core. I'll avoid the rear bumper cover, thank you very much.

Sorry I mean away bar! Not steering rack. Sway bar and bushings.