Street Build 1g build - The Real Life Trials and Tribulations of building a DSM

[Vegas Smith]

I’m not aware of any grounding. You probably need to rehab sender blade because it isn’t contacting anymore.

 

[1cleangsx]

I had this same issue with my hanger , thought it was some kind of wiring issue, finally pulled it to replace the pump socks and noticed the low level sender rod was slightly bent and I think it was touching the pump, it’s been a few months ago now, but anyways I figured it couldn’t hurt to slightly bend it away from making contact, double checked my blue/green low level/float wires which were good, not switched like I thought, put the hanger back in the tank, turned the key and voila! I yelled wooo as I watched that gauge slowly move on up , simple fix I waited a year to do

 

[Anfurnyy]

I’m not aware of any grounding. You probably need to rehab sender blade because it isn’t contacting anymore.

I tried. I tested resistance from the base of the blade to chassis ground and the resistance changes when I move the float but it never makes it into the wire for the harness. I didn't have time to dig super deep tonight but maybe tomorrow I will.

 

[Anfurnyy]

I had this same issue with my hanger , thought it was some kind of wiring issue, finally pulled it to replace the pump socks and noticed the low level sender rod was slightly bent and I think it was touching the pump, it’s been a few months ago now, but anyways I figured it couldn’t hurt to slightly bend it away from making contact, double checked my blue/green low level/float wires which were good, not switched like I thought, put the hanger back in the tank, turned the key and voila! I yelled wooo as I watched that gauge slowly move on up , simple fix I waited a year to do

Mann that makes me jealous you think the low level sensor touching the tank baffle would make a difference?? Mine might be but I did verify it was not touching a pump. And before I pulled it out I reached in and made sure the float was free and it was.

I did find out that both my level sending wire and the low fuel light wire both pulled out of my pin in the harness when I checked tonight. I fixed them but still no luck.

 

[Anfurnyy]

I’m not aware of any grounding. You probably need to rehab sender blade because it isn’t contacting anymore.

Now that I think about it I shouldn't be checking it via ground huh? How am I supposed to test this?

 

[92AWDHX40]

No It shouldn't mines isn't float is probably bad

 

[Anfurnyy]

So had another realization on the fuel level sender issue. I think I had the float facing the wrong way. It seems that it actually faces towards the rear of the car, and I had it facing the passenger side.
Red is my orientation I had it
Blue is apparently the correct orientation?

 

[Anfurnyy]

Okay so here's what I found out.
The float body NEEDS to be grounded to the gauge ground (black only wire from the OEM fuel pump harness) in order for the gauge to work. A regular ground does not work.

With having an aftermarket fuel pump hanger that is anodized made this a pain BUT I figured out a somewhat simple solution. I wired an extension off the gauge ground mentioned above and ran it to a mounting stud that the hanger is secure with. I also ground off some anodization off the hanger in that one location so that it made better continuity but it seems to be working. I only put in 5gal of fuel a few weeks ago and I've had the car running a bit for idle timing and what not. The gauge is currently sitting at just above the "E" line.
This was before the gauge climbed to its max


I also rotated the hanger 90° clockwise so that the float was facing towards the back of the car as mentioned in my previous post.

 

[1cleangsx]

Glad you figured it out, I’m curious how mine works without the additional ground?

 

[Anfurnyy]

Glad you figured it out, I’m curious how mine works without the additional ground?

I'm also curious. How is yours setup?
I put a ground directly from my fuel pump ground to the body of the float body and it never moved.
Currently as soon as I remove this ground from the pump hanger, my fuel gauge falls to empty.

I have my Fuel Low light, and level wiring connected like OEM. I have the Factory power wire going to the switched 12v input on my main fuel pump relay, and then the ground was just chilling there heat shrinked before today.

I could understand how the gauge ground would be needed. Ground comes from gauge > passes through the Level Sending body > Resistance is applied via the float and blade > resistance is then "sent" to the yellow wire in the harness back to the gauge.

 

[1cleangsx]

I’m at work at the moment, when I get home I’ll take pictures, I can tell you im nowhere near as knowledgeable as you when it comes to wiring , im just happy it works

 

[1cleangsx]

Here’s my set up, my brother n law helped wire in the relays, the float/low level wires are connected same as yours I believe, each pump has its own relay with one single in-line 40amp fuse/8gauge wire straight from the battery

 

[Anfurnyy]

View attachment 702460Here’s my set up, my brother n law helped wire in the relays, the float/low level wires are connected same as yours I believe, each pump has its own relay with one single in-line 40amp fuse/8gauge wire straight from the battery

Your OEM ground is not connected to anything?

 

[1cleangsx]

Here’s my ground

 

[Anfurnyy]

View attachment 702465Here’s my ground

Man I feel stupid. I disconnected that ground I thought I needed and it's still reading correctly.

 

[1cleangsx]

Hey man that’s cool! At least it’s working , like I said I waited a YEAR to even pull my hanger to even take a look

 

[1cleangsx]

And by the way I’m curious as to how that 67mm Garrett is on the street

 

[Anfurnyy]

And by the way I’m curious as to how that 67mm Garrett is on the street

You and me both! Lol

 

[Anfurnyy]

Went ahead and fixed up some of my inputs for the sensors and what not.
I had to switch around my Ethanol content, Antilag, and Clutch switch inputs as those are all required to be digital inputs in the Link software. Unfortunately I ran out of Digital inputs and had to use my A/C input
i realized the next day that i could have used my throttle close switch also. So ill be switching something over to that when i get around to it.

I could not for the life of me figure out how to tie into the factory clutch switch wiring to activate my launch control input so i ended up just switching it to ground. Now that seems to work.

My mount for my catch can showed up so ill hopefully be getting that installed today.
I put the interior mostly back together and then took the car for a drive to the gas station to fill up the tank to see if my fuel gauge was working. Its still showing just above empty even after putting about 14 gallons in it. ill have to figure that out still. My low level light is also on even after taking the ground wire that I THOUGHT I needed off.

The trans shifts well it no longer grinds or crunches going into 2nd but still a very slight crunch into 3rd. Not sure what thats about. Maybe the sliders were more worn than i thought. The hood and bumper are still off but the cars temp stayed under control with both fans operating like they are programmed to do which is a win IMO.

Surprised my brother by bringing the car over to his house on my way home and he got a video of me pulling up. Its really loud. I can wait to get an exhaust made for it.

I have plans to meet up with a shop in Gillette, WY to have them fab up a whole 3.5" exhaust for it. Ill likely end up putting a muffler on it too as i dont want it to be unbearably loud.

On the way home i kept hearing a ticking noise that increased with wheel speed. After i got home i inspected the Passenger side rear wheel area where the noise was coming from and found that the brake like had been rubbing on the inside of the wheel. Obviously thats no good. Ill have to spin that brake line around so it no longer hits. I did this before i put the wheels on and made sure but it must have vibrated back around.

While looking at this i also noticed that the rear brakes seem tight. Like they are constantly rubbing on the rotors. They were fairly tough to get on when doing the brake but not because the pads were too thick. The passenger side rear especially felt tight, almost like the upper pin was bent.
Still need to bleed the brakes also.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Got the brake line situation figured out and it's no longer rubbing. Bled the brakes a bit more. I did try the Teflon truck but it didn't work any better. Maybe I didn't put enough, who knows.
I ended up just using the good ol grease trick around the threads when I cracked it open.

I ended up also tieing up my hydraulic brake when I got to bleeding the fronts so that it should be bled better or even properly. Never bled one so who knows. Brakes feel a lot less spongy now and still stop great.


Afterwards I took the car for another drive. I must have done something right with my cold start/ pre crank prime stuff because the car fires off right away and I didn't have to do anything for the car to idle and warm up all on it's own so that was cool.

Anyways I was just driving normally and checking throttle response and trying to hit some fuel cells while trying to "quick tune" and ended up getting into boost a little bit. Hit 9psi with only 43% throttle. I can TELL this car wants to boogie man. The car drove really great actually. Like a really normal car. Only issue I ran into is trying to go up hills in say like 2nd with a little bit of throttle. I think some of the lower cells need some more Fuel. Made it home without a single hitch.



Picking up some new oil today to do my first oil change. And then after that I'll probably do a 500 mile break in period and then after that I think I'll be comfortable with boost tuning.

Today I've also been making some changes to the tune to try and fix my closed loop tuning. And fuel cutoff on decel
I had some closed loop parameters setup wrong so it really hasn't been any making any changes to the fuel table to compensate. Luckily my table was fairly close to what it needed to be apparently.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Boosting it won't hurt it. I come out of the gate at 30psi during breakin. I know some don't like that and may argue, but I build them, so I know who has to fix them. Everyone has a "method" that they like and yours will give your motor more life than one that is ran hard from the get go like I do, but the boosting won't hurt it, it helps break it in like it is going to be used. The car "sounds" like it is going to be a very quick one. I haven't looked at all of your mods but if you are over 500hp, it will be fun! If you are close to 700 or more, it will be SCARY (but fun) .

 

[Anfurnyy]

Boosting it won't hurt it. I come out of the gate at 30psi during breakin. I know some don't like that and may argue, but I build them, so I know who has to fix them. Everyone has a "method" that they like and yours will give your motor more life than one that is ran hard from the get go like I do, but the boosting won't hurt it, it helps break it in like it is going to be used. The car "sounds" like it is going to be a very quick one. I haven't looked at all of your mods but if you are over 500hp, it will be fun! If you are close to 700 or more, it will be SCARY (but fun) .

Yeah I know of plenty of people that do the same thing. If not even just take it straight to the track as well. I'm not opposed to going into boost I just don't have the tune quite figured out yet so didn't want to hurt anything in that regard. I hope its actually as fun as it sounds like it's going to be too.

It's a aluminum rod 2.0, Manley pistons, GSC s2s, GTX3584RS w/ V-band and a 1.01 housing, Morrison fab small runner manifold and their hot parts kit, dual Walbro 450s, and FIC 2150s. Hoping for high 700s, maybe low 800s.

I think everything is in my bio if you get curious.
I really can't wait. I can't remember the last time I was this excited about driving a car! Lol

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I am close to your setup and I am blowing all 4 tires off at 65mph when the 34lbs of boost comes in. At that point, the car skates all over the road, even when I swapped my 4 slicks onto it so hang on, buckle up and get ready for the ride of your life! I was into the 700's and boy was she fun!!! You have a BIG hot side. I wonder how that will affect spool???
Love your build!

 

[Anfurnyy]

I am close to your setup and I am blowing all 4 tires off at 65mph when the 34lbs of boost comes in. At that point, the car skates all over the road, even when I swapped my 4 slicks onto it so hang on, buckle up and get ready for the ride of your life! I was into the 700's and boy was she fun!!! You have a BIG hot side. I wonder how that will affect spool???
Love your build!

So the company i got the turbo from said that the V-band flow quite a bit so a decent sized hot side wasnt a bad idea. We'll see how well it spools when we start getting into boost. If its too big, at least its just an easy swap to a smaller housing.

That sounds excitingly frightening.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Well that's cool that they spoke to you about the V band outlet. My son somehow won a free 88 mm Turbo from precision and it has a 1.08 Hot Side if I'm not mistaken and a V band outlet. He is planning on putting it on an LS build but I seen that one of our DSM members is running an 88 mm on his DSM on methanol and 12 injectors but that damn thing flies. I think it's Jason Drew.