Street Build 1g build - The Real Life Trials and Tribulations of building a DSM

[Vegas Smith]

Don’t cut the bumper. It’s not worth it for your car to look like crap.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Don’t cut the bumper. It’s not worth it for your car to look like crap.

I really don't want to. But how does everyone get to use more than 40% of their intercooler?

 

[Anfurnyy]

Picked up vacuum line from orielly's and got the wastegate lines made.


Air filter should be here today
tried troubleshooting the canlambda and why it flashes back and forth from 0.00 to 1.52 lambda.



I verified that the CAN settings are correct, following the setup instructions, and i verified that i have a 120ohm resistor between CAN h and CAN l, AND verified that that theres only ~60ohm between them while the car is powered on but everything seemed to be right.

the ONLY thing I can think of is that i tested the ground continuity at the pins for the Lambda module and its getting like 40ohms of resistance. Which is really odd because the entire CANbus is grounded at the same spot to a bolt behind the radio. I tested the ground at the CANGauge harness and its only like 2ohms or something like that. Im probably going to post in the link forums for some help on this unless someone here knows maybe what might be going on.

no matter how you hash it, 40ohms is MUCH MUCH too high for a ground i think. I may have to add another ground to the chassis. Currently the only one is on the firewall off the remote ground terminal thats in the engine bay. i think ill add another ground in the trunk right where the fuel pumps are grounded at.

 

[92Turbski]

Picked up vacuum line from orielly's and got the wastegate lines made.
View attachment 700438

Air filter should be here today
tried troubleshooting the canlambda and why it flashes back and forth from 0.00 to 1.52 lambda.



I verified that the CAN settings are correct, following the setup instructions, and i verified that i have a 120ohm resistor between CAN h and CAN l, AND verified that that theres only ~60ohm between them while the car is powered on but everything seemed to be right.

the ONLY thing I can think of is that i tested the ground continuity at the pins for the Lambda module and its getting like 40ohms of resistance. Which is really odd because the entire CANbus is grounded at the same spot to a bolt behind the radio. I tested the ground at the CANGauge harness and its only like 2ohms or something like that. Im probably going to post in the link forums for some help on this unless someone here knows maybe what might be going on.

no matter how you hash it, 40ohms is MUCH MUCH too high for a ground i think. I may have to add another ground to the chassis. Currently the only one is on the firewall off the remote ground terminal thats in the engine bay. i think ill add another ground in the trunk right where the fuel pumps are grounded at.

Oh yeah, adding more grounds is definitely a good idea. Super cheap and easy, too.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Oh yeah, adding more grounds is definitely a good idea. Super cheap and easy, too.

I'll admit I really don't understand how many grounds you should have and where. Like do I need one on the engine block too? The Manifold?

 

[92Turbski]

I'll admit I really don't understand how many grounds you should have and where. Like do I need one on the engine block too? The Manifold?

I think there are maybe 2-3 stock. I'd double that. Strut tower to t- Stat housing, battery ground to chassis (OE mini strap off of post to firewall and one to trans bell housing), T Stat to trans, Alternator housing to chassis, chassis to intake and/or TB.

Like PFb makes his kits, or, make your own. Since you're doing the complete wiring it should be a snap for you.


Hope this helps ya!


Rob

 

[Anfurnyy]

Added a 10g ground from the alternator to the chassis, and another right from the battery in the hatch to the spare tire bolt where my fuel pumps are grounded. Tested the ground at the Can Lambda module in the engine bay at the new ground location and got .2 ohms. I'd say that's much better.


My new intake filter came in. I sent the old one back because it was absolutely huge. I really like the look of the new one. I don't remember if I mentioned it but my hose clamps showed up for the inlet so that's completely done.


Figured out my Lamda issue thanks to Adam in the Link ECU forums. I had the Lambda module and my OEM o2 input set as lambda 1. so they are fighting over control.

Yesterday I put in 5 gallons of fresh 91 fuel also. And found that the drain plug was leaking because I forgot to tighten it down all the way. Snugged it up and all is well.


Attempted to bleed my brakes but it was kind of a disaster. I have one of the central pneumatic Vacuum bleeders it seemed to work okay but my bleed valves suck because they don't seal against the caliper great when you crack them open. The bleeder was just sucking in air.

I also saw that the transmission was leaking out of the fill plug. Also from my own doing. Forgot to torque the fill plug. Tightened that down and now it doesn't leak. Who knew!

Still gotta fix the turbo drain leak though.

I'm really hoping for a first start sometime Next week but I'm supposed to help my brother swap in his ported heads, and new cam for his supercharged 5.7 jeep next weekend so we'll see.

 

[Anfurnyy]

well guys after nearly 2 years, countless hours, gallons of sweat and swear words.. IT FINALLY RUNS.

Heres the start video: HERE

It runs really rough, Mostly because of the tune.
In the video you can see me on the laptop and then the car runs better. I added something like 20% fuel in the idle cells. It needs a bit more fuel and the master fuel adjusted a bit as well.
Getting just over 80psi of oil pressure at cold idle.

i didnt let it run for more than a minute or so as there is no coolant.

There's still tons to do, including a plethora of things in the tune but i cant believe its alive and working.
Still needs brakes bled
intercooler clamps installed and tightened
Heater Core Hoses installed
Coolant (going to just run distilled water)
Catch Can installed
Have exhaust made
Need to fix some wires from the bay to the ECU. Apparently the Ethanol sensor needs to be wired into a Digital input not an analog.
I also posted in the Link forums to try and find some help to find out if the Link ECU uses the clutch switch so that i can use that for Launch control. If not, ill need to somehow find another Digital input to re-purpose for this.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Nice. That’s exciting man. I almost legit did the same thing to mine but the wife talked some sense into me and advised against rushing. That way the first start also means the first drive.

Excited for you brother!

 

[Vegas Smith]

Nice, how do you plan to tune it?

 

[Anfurnyy]

Nice, how do you plan to tune it?

As in what kind of tuning strategy? Or have someone tune it?

 

[Anfurnyy]

Nice. That’s exciting man. I almost legit did the same thing to mine but the wife talked some sense into me and advised against rushing. That way the first start also means the first drive.

Excited for you brother!

Part of me wishes i would, but honestly i have been so worried that something catastrophic was going to happen i just wanted to rip the bandaid off and get it out of the way in case something was wrong.

first drive isnt too far off!

 

[Anfurnyy]

Just a small update. I took a week off of working on my own car and spent the weekend working on my brother '14 Jeep Grand Cherokee.

We did ported heads with upgraded springs, rocker shaft stabilizers and collars, new hellcat oil pump, NON MDS lifters, Comp Cam "stage 2" blower cam, and FIC 1000cc injectors. She's an absolute ripper.





Anyways, a week or so ago I ordered up a new catch can. Went with a Vibrant catch can. It's much larger than I anticipated but it should work perfect mounted next to the wiper motor.


Got some distilled water in the car this morning.
Just need to finish bleeding the brakes, fix the oil drain leak and SHOULD be good to get idle somewhat dialed in enough for a test drive!

 

[Anfurnyy]

Well guys the day has finally come.

I was able to drive the Talon around the block yesterday! WATCH ME DRIVE



Before I did I fixed my oil return leak. I pulled the old gasket off, and replaced it but this time I put a very small film of RTV on both sides of the gasket to keep it from leaking. So far so good. I know you shouldn't HAVE to but it was so not sure what else I could have done.

Did a check over everything under the car while I was under there and found that I needed to tighten the front motor mount, as well as both of the lower ball joints so i went ahead and got those taken care of.

Now from the other day getting the car idling, my fans weren't coming on. After reaching out to Link about the issue they said that i would have to use the Outputs to actually ground the relay instead of activate them using a 12v output. So i spend a couple hours getting those figured out and it did work but NOW when i turn the car off the fans come on.. so apparently when the ecu turns off it pulls those outputs to ground. I reached back out to them again about it and NOW they said that i also need to have the Switched input that activates the relay also on a 12v switched source.... So ill have to undo almost everything i did yesterday to fix that. But i think i have an easy solution though.

After i got those figured out I went ahead and tried to get the car warmed up to test the fan activation for the temp controls and so i could pull it outside. it took me awhile to get the car to a decent running state. Honestly i still dont completely know what im doing but im trying. I removed all the startup enrichments and what not so that i could deal souly with throttle, timing and main fuel tables. I was able to get it running at a stable ish 1300 which is just too hight. Im trying to deal with that as well.

I was able to get the car backed up to outside in the driveway where I verified the base timing at 5* (locked it at 5* and then adjusted the CAS), and also messed with some more Ethrottle, and timing to get a smoother idle and adjust some part throttle revs and add fuel so it wouldnt completely bog when you gave it throttle.

It finally came time to go for a drive! Loaded up some tools, and headed for a trip around the block but only made it about half way down my street because I heard a LOUD ticking coming from the Front Driver wheel. Backed it back into the driveway and shook the wheel and it wiggled a bit. We also saw that something was wearing a path into my rotors too, but didnt think anything of it. We (me and brother in law) thought it was a bad wheel bearing even though it was brand new. So i started pulling the wheel off, then the brake and i went to pull the axle nut off and noticed that it was really loose, even though i had a cotter pin in it. I decided to just torque the axle nut down and see if that made a difference before assuming it was the wheel bearing. I think it was somehow the axle nut because then the wheel didnt really wobble. Put everything back together and went for another drive. Made it down the street and the clicking continued, but i still drive it around the block anyways. It drove relatively good for having a very very base map on it. 1st gear drove pretty great but the cells that 2nd uses needed a bit of work.

Made it back home and pulled into the driveway and looked further into the clicking noise and found that on one of my front brake pad hardware shims was actually bent back wards and was rubbing on the rotor. Everytime it went over one of the slots, it made that loud ticking noise. I broke that little tab off since there was no saving it and put everything back together and just called it a night and pulled the car into the garage and parked it for the night. That was enough suspense for me for the night.

All in all I cannot believe that the car runs finally after almost 2 years. There's still a few small things to finish like my catch can needs mounted to the fire wall or something similar, and then i need the exhaust fabbed up, and i need to bleed the brakes more as they felt pretty spongey but stopped well.

 

[92Turbski]

That is awesome! Way to persevere and plow though all that you've done. It's a lot of work and the learning can be a lot of fun. You'll have plenty of time to get it even further dialed in and looking forward to hearing about it!

 

[Anfurnyy]

That is awesome! Way to persevere and plow though all that you've done. It's a lot of work and the learning can be a lot of fun. You'll have plenty of time to get it even further dialed in and looking forward to hearing about it!

Thanks I appreciate it! I'll admit it hasn't been easy but I guess that makes it all the more enjoyable.

I can't wait to get the exhaust made and get some rips in after the break in!

 

[DogWhistle]

Attempted to bleed my brakes but it was kind of a disaster. I have one of the central pneumatic Vacuum bleeders it seemed to work okay but my bleed valves suck because they don't seal against the caliper great when you crack them open. The bleeder was just sucking in air.

Although it seems like overkill, we remove the bleed screw and teflon tape the threads before reinstalling into the caliper. It really does improve the seal of the bleed screw and eliminate the false air bubbles when bleeding.

Enjoying reading your build. Congratulations on getting it running!

 

[Anfurnyy]

Although it seems like overkill, we remove the bleed screw and teflon tape the threads before reinstalling into the caliper. It really does improve the seal of the bleed screw and eliminate the false air bubbles when bleeding.

Enjoying reading your build. Congratulations on getting it running!

I really might try this when I bleed them again. I just caked the threaded part of the bleed screw with grease to seal it but it was like a 20/80 hit or miss.

 

[DreamChaser7]

I really might try this when I bleed them again. I just caked the threaded part of the bleed screw with grease to seal it but it was like a 20/80 hit or miss.

I wonder how something like tru-blue (thread sealant) or the like would work here, works great in plumbing situations with fluctuations in temperature and vibrations.

 

[Vegas Smith]

I have my Link ecu supply the switched ground and both 12v pins are connected to battery, therefore, you only need to connect to ecu once.

 

[Anfurnyy]

I have my Link ecu supply the switched ground and both 12v pins are connected to battery, therefore, you only need to connect to ecu once.

I had the ECU switch the ground for the relay and then the switched input for the relay connected to constant 12v and when the ECU turned off it grounds all the ISC outputs which then completes the circuit.

I ran an actually 12v switched power from the cab to the relays so it only gets 12v when the key is on and now the fans are happy

 

[Anfurnyy]

I wonder how something like tru-blue (thread sealant) or the like would work here, works great in plumbing situations with fluctuations in temperature and vibrations.

I might have to look into that as well.

 

[Vegas Smith]

I had the ECU switch the ground for the relay and then the switched input for the relay connected to constant 12v and when the ECU turned off it grounds all the ISC outputs which then completes the circuit.

I ran an actually 12v switched power from the cab to the relays so it only gets 12v when the key is on and now the fans are happy

How could you tell it was doing that? Now that I think of it I may have changed my setup to switched 12v as well

 

[Anfurnyy]

How could you tell it was doing that? Now that I think of it I may have changed my setup to switched 12v as well

Well if the switched 12v I put is connected to constant 12v power (directly to battery like mine was) then it would ALWAYS be telling the relay to turn on. And then when the the ground would be connected (ECU pulls the ISC outputs to ground when turned off) to the relay it would complete the circuit and the fans would turn on with the key off

I would say the easiest way is check pin 87 on your relay for 12v with the key off/out

 

[Anfurnyy]

Question for you guys. Does the pump hanger itself need grounded in order for the fuel level to work? Mines still reading absolutely zero fuel level and I have the wires all connected through the wiring harness in the hanger but I didn't know if the hanger itself needs grounded.