1G 5 speed - Sick of 9's...

[jbeaton9292]

I sure hope he doesnt go rwd it will screw with his whole setup the car is running great as an awd why mess with it to possibly make it worse

 

[Mark L]

No plans to ever go with a solid axle.

 

[GSXftw]

Lovin the updates and the progress, its just getting better and better. With the 2.2 and higher RPM It could really pick up a lot!

 

[jersygsx]

On your rear diff cover did you just use Mitsu gasket bond to make the seal?

 

[rough]

Congrats on hitting your 8 seconds!! Man at 0.43 I bet that driver created a diamond out of underwear!

 

[Mark L]

I'm extremely excited for this season! The extended RPM of the 2.2 should help and the 100lbs of weight reduction too. I used ultra grey for the sealant of the rear cover.

I have been making parts for the kmember project. I made the tube tabs or chassis brackets, whatever they call them. They are made from 4130 and took forever to machine. I have all the materials so now I just need to get fabricating. I also spun up the ball joint receivers on my lathe so I could use the OEM balljoint. Thanks goes out to the Slow95GSX CDub guys for sharing their designs, a lot of this kmember is going to be very similar.

I purchased a 1.5" bending die and got the main part of the K-member fabricated.

On to the block. I purchased the Boostin Performance 1/2" head stud kit. I have a bridgeport mill so I machined the 1/2" timeserts in the block. I also did a 3/4 block fill too. Below is the new stud and insert installed in the lower hole.

On to the next step. I filled the block yesterday. I ended up going about 1 inch down from the deck surface, I think that's considered a three-quarter fill. It was my first time messing around with block filler. It's not the easiest stuff to work with, since the water holes in the deck only allow you to use a small funnel when filling. And the stuff is messy. Thanks goes out to John (has the Galant that went 9.40's) for letting me use one of his torque plates. Applying 110 lb/ft to the head studs is weird, it's like tightening lug nuts. The rubber hose allows insurance that there is a water path from the pump. They are easily removed when the block filler is cured. I removed the water pump block off plate after 10 hours and removed some semi cured filler material to insure proper water pump functionality. The next step is to get the block out for line honing the mains.

 

[Mark L]

I finished up the k member yesterday. The old stuff was 72 lbs, the new stuff is 29.5lbs. A savings of 42.5!

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Looks like front sub frame rather than the cross member. Lopks gpod, and good weight savings!

 

[poizondsm]

Hey whats goin on, im trying to convert to a hydraulic handbrake on my 1g right now and was wondering what brand is this one in your pic? and how well has it worked out for you? That K-frame is sick! did you do all the fab? or does someone make the a arms or anything?

 

[Mark L]

The hand brake is an ebay unit, it was around 50 bucks. It has worked great, no issues. Thanks for the feedback.
I did all the fab, thats one of the main things that I love about this hobby! Every project offers learning opportunities to grow fabrication capabilities. I'm getting to the point now where I would like to start over and build a crazy RWD chassis car.

 

[jbeaton9292]

im getting to the point now where I would like to start over and build a crazy RWD chassis car.

NO! ITS GREAT AS IT IS!

 

[Mark L]

Yes, I 100% agree. I'm going to keep this car the way it is and go faster.

I'm going to start building a new car for the rwd!

 

[Critic4Du3ce]

Any know what crank this car is using???

 

[bastarddsm]

Kiggly. edit" I read that as "what crank trigger is he using" . "

 

[Mark L]

Any know what crank this car is using???

The crank for all past seasons has been an OEM 6 bolt 4G64. The new crank is a 94mm eagle.

 

[Mark L]

It’s been awhile since my last update. I dropped my block off to MAP to be machined for the new 2.2L HD pistons and one thing led to another and MAP completed the entire long block for me! Alex did a great job measuring and assembling everything on the motor. I can’t say enough how happy I am with the precision measurement, over all quality and focus on details that Alex, Eric and the other MAP members have. I don’t trust too many people or shops, as I do everything that I can myself, but I can say with confidence that MAP’s engine program is world class.

The engine is an:
• Eagle 94mm 6-bolt crank
• 9.75:1 Wiesco HD2 pistons
• Boostin 1/2” arp l19 head studs
• ¾ filled block
• R&R 153mm aluminum rods
• Stage 5 MAP cylinder head, with Inconel exhaust valves and the deck surface has been stinted.
• No O-rings, Felpro Permatorque gasket
• GSC S3 cams
• Kiggley HLA & 24 tooth trigger crank sensor
• 200W heater in the oil pan, for pre heat, with an oil temperature sensor.

The motor is in the car now and all ready to be started.

This weekend I finished up the fabrication on the 3000Gt rearend. It’s huge compared to the factory 1G unit. My Pro Stage 5 axles will be custom machined for the new rear. The last rear end only lasted 5 passes. I kept breaking the spider gears and I didn’t want to weld the diff and have ring and pinion failures that others have had.

The car is almost down 100lbs too!

 

[Spdfreak]

Glad to see the update, I've been following this thread since day 1. Good job, can't wait to hear this monster fire up.

 

[familyMAN]

Bump for updates. Awesome build!

 

[Mark L]

Thanks for the interest in the build thread! I got the rear end all finished up. DSS modified my pro stage rear axles to adapt to the new 3k rear end. They turned out awesome!

Last week I tried to dyno the car. I had a weld blow out on my ets intercooler. Lucky MAP fixed it up, by welding it up for me. Then later, I experienced clutch issues. The clutch slippage made the RPM rise rapidly blowing past the rev limiter and hitting fuel cut. I was running around 46psi. This caused the head gasket to start leaking coolant in #4, ending the session. The motor is back out now ready for the refreshed clutch and new gasket. I'm excited to get out for the first time this season!

 

[Kaj2gDSMspyder]

Awesome!! Should definitely bring that monster to dsm shootout this year.

 

[Mark L]

I was planning on going to the shootout, but I'm traveling for my job that weekend now. I'm going to make it a priority next year!

 

[BoostedBeaver]

Sounds like a plan. I plan to make the trek next year with the Talon so maybe I will see you there.

P.S. What color is your valve cover if you don’t mind me asking.

 

[bastarddsm]

• Stage 5 MAP cylinder head, the deck surface has been stinted.

What is this?

 

[DSM IN MN]

What is this?

"Stinting reinforces the deck surface of the head in spots where head gaskets tend to fail. It is done by milling holes in the deck surface at the weak points around the deck. Then pressing in solid aluminum rod in the holes, the rod is tig welded into the head. There are two locations per cylinder. It was MAP's recommendation, as they had successful experience with it." - Mark L.

 

[bastarddsm]

Damn! They stole my idea! only I was going to do it a bit differently.