1G 5 speed - Sick of 9's...

[Mark L]

Thanks guys! I cannot wait for this season to start and get deeper in the 8's with more reliability.

I finished up the rear end mount. My tube fabrication capabilities continue to improve, check out the fitment.

And all finished up:

 

[familyMAN]

VERY nice fit up

 

[b00stedtalon2]

Looking good man!

 

[jersygsx]

Any pics of the new 1 piece drive shaft ? Also I'd like to see how you mounted the rear in the car

 

[Mark L]

Finished up the drag and street exhaust.

Super close to being finished up with all the winter upgrade plans

 

[Mark L]

The car is on the ground now! I had some pulsation in the brake pedal and i believe it was due to my caliper being mounted too close to the rotor. The rotors are scalloped and the pad was not centered on the rotor. Originally I used the tce kit with a brakeman rotor, so my fault here. My father in law helped me out, he has a cnc mill in his garage, and he has been trying out diy anodizing. The result Is awesome. They are made from a 7000 series aluminum that has a high tensile strength. The view below is of one bracket face down and the other face up.

 

[Mark L]

Update on what I’ve been up to lately. I have my $$$ sfi 15 Simpson fire suit now, my local track - Brainard enforces you to have one if you burn ethanol and run a turbo car quicker than 9.99.

I wanted a detachable steering wheel to make entry and exit of the car easier for safety and comfort. Searching was not easy, lots of misleading information from suppliers and forums. I also found out that NHRA requires SFI certified detach mechanisms and wheels. I didn't want to just replace the wheel, as I also realized that there was a weight savings opportunity. It ended up at 19 lbs for $250.00! I found the wheel here: http://www.dragzine.com/news/new-products/rj-max-lightweight-steering-wheels-from-quarter-max/
The sfi detach mechanism is from Stange. The wheel and detach are under 2 lbs!. I used 4130 ¾” shaft and turned an adaptor on my lathe out of 1018 material.

I also improved the intercooler piping entry angle into the throttle body. It required me to build a new overflow tank too. It's all optimized now!

Before:

After:

 

[91stocker]

I love that 3rd mounting point on the diff, i havent seen that before. It sure looks like it squares up that diff nicely.

 

[1SloEvo]

Agreed with the above. If you feel like making another one like that, PM me a price!

 

[92AWDHX40]

Damn that's one sick build.

 

[ShadyDoins]

Wowza, this thread is awesome. You can see exactly how it went from a nice 1g to now being one of the sickest dsms on earth imo.

I dreamt of this thing in a race with the red demon for title of fastest awd manual dsm...but like always I jismed right before they crossed the finish line so I didn't get to see who won . I guess I will just have to wait for it to happen in real life for results.

 

[Mark L]

The last trip to the track wasn't very fruitful. My clutch slipped and banged off of the rev limiter under lots of boost. It blew the head gasket. I also found out that my drive shaft has harmonics issues. And I inspected the head I found it bent all the exhaust valves.

It's been a busy month:

I remove the single piece driveshaft and sent it back to DSS so they could turn my one piece shaft into a two piece.

They did an awesome job, and barely charged me anything to split the shaft.

I sent the cutch back to tilton, I figured out I had a setup issue that caused the diaphragm spring in the pressure plate to slowly lose it's just clamping force. That's all fixed now.

I remove the mechanical water pump in converted to a electric and I'm now running waterless coolant. I drove it on the very hot weekend on the freeway and it stayed cool.

Special Thanks goes out to MAPerformance, Eric rebuilt the cylinder head with meticulous detail. Also thanks goes out to the whole crew that help me out while on the dyno, Jake helped me strap it all down securely. I blew an intercooler weld and Tim helped me weld it up. I ran 4 pulls, the first 2 were partial pulls. The last pull is below, ignore the dyno wide band reading.

 

[GST with PSI]

I also found out that my drive shaft has harmonics issues.

I remove the single piece driveshaft and sent it back to DSS so they could turn my one piece shaft into a two piece.

Hey Mark, can you give some more details on this?

 

[slowwhite]

Mark have to ask is this your first time breaking the 1000whp mark, I don't recall reading 1000whp before.

If so congrats on a new personal best.

 

[Mark L]

Hey Mark, can you give some more details on this?

I'm no driveshaft expert. I know a little bit about harmonics and the frequency domain from my engineering experiences.

The symptom I experienced was a bad vibration while slowing down between 105 to 100 mph. Otherwise no issues on acceleration. I spoke with
an engineer at DSS and it doesn't violate critical
speeds, but weird harmonics can happen when you have high durometer poly mounts on the engine and rear end, or if they are hard mounted.

Now it is silky smooth with 2 pieces.

Mark have to ask is this your first time breaking the 1000whp mark, I don't recall reading
1000whp before.

If so congrats on a new personal best.

Yes, and thank you. This is the first time over 1000whp on a dyno.

 

[livedsm4g63]

I bet thats a fun ride All that time in that built lower end. Good job.

 

[tsi617]

Beautiful craftsmanship. This is a well done car and a great build. Wish you all the best on what seems like a journey to 7s?

 

[Blown 944]

Read this thread twice now. Brilliant work. Hope to see some updates in the near future.

 

[Mark L]

I scored a set of new 15" volk te37's recently. Present to myself this year! Super lucky to find them new as they are discontinued. I found a dealer that had them in inventory in the US, it took lots of messages to dealers and searching. They are 10lbs per wheel!

I also made a change to a new 90mm throttle body, 3.5" ic piping' and hd vanjen clamps.

I'm excited for the race season! More updates to come.

 

[ilikejesus]

I read completely through this thread and was curious where did you get the window cranks from? Car looks AWESOME!!!!

 

[Mark L]

Thanks! I picked up the manual window regulators up from a junkyard. They came from a non turbo laser.

 

[Terrance362]

The car is still looking amazing as it did before the volks!!! Keep it up

 

[Mark L]

In January I started a new project on the talon. Decided to make a tubular rear subframe for the 3000GT rear end. This way I can put that rear end in and ideal location. When I used the OEM subframe I could not get the rear end mounted high enoufgh. I should be able to save approximately 25 pounds. I used a little bit thicker wall chromoly 0.120" for additional strength. I also wanted to use urethane bushings that I had for the factory subframe. I still need to make tabs for the lower control arms. I'm excited that this is all coming together. Thanks goes out to John tsi for sharing his tubular rear design, there are many similarities.

 

[Mark L]

I just finished it up last night. I also cleaned up the rearend. It has new bolts, vent, plugs, seals and a fresh paint job. It's crazy how much oem stuff is available from Mitsubishi for a 25 year old car!

[/QUOTE]

 

[Dstarperformance01]

I think I need to go change my underwear...
Unbelievable, she is AMAZINGLY BEAUTIFUL!
It definitely shows meticulous detail, great taste and LOTS of hard work. Top notch Mark, top notch