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Resolved 1990 Oil filter housing questions

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413mudman

15+ Year Contributor
52
5
Aug 2, 2006
Rindge, New Hampshire
Hello,
I have a 91 eagle talon tsi awd. I'm currently in the middle of chasing down oil leaks in which I found the culprit. A cracked oil return line from the turbo. I'm cleaning up the oil filter housing and have a dumb question. It appears that my oil filter housing is off of 90. Which means I can install an oil cooler. Since I don't have one. I noticed that the previous owner just looped a small hose from inlet to outlet. I also noticed that the sandwich plate is missing so not entirely sure this was functional.. I'm looking at both Chilton and Haynes. There's no info on it other than a diagram. I also noticed that I have a oil pressure gauge unit. This is (according to Chilton) a non turbo part. I bought an oil pressure switch. Will this also show oil pressure on the gauge as well as turn off the oil light? Can I eliminate the oil hose from the inlet to outlet or just reseal it with new crush washers? Kinda stuck. The oil hose was just clamped on.
 
Solution
Can I just seal off the openings or just reseal both lines with crush washers and put the line back on?


I wouldn't seal off the openings. If you truly have a 90 housing, oil directing to the cooler is thermostat controlled. If you aren't going to run a cooler, loop the lines. Don't block them. Blocking them would force the system to use the bypass valve 100% of the time. You don't want that.

As for which oil switches go where.

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The oil switch is small and controls the oil light. Here

The oild sender unit is large and round and controls the gauge. Here
The 90 OFH is a air cooled unit.

You can pick up a trans cooler to hook up the lines from the 90 OFH and have an oil cooler.

The rest ran a water cooled oil cooler, that is where the sandwich plate comes in.

The sandwich plate is a liquid to liquid heat exchanger.
 
OK cool but I'm probably not going to use one at the moment. My biggest concern is that the oil line that was just looped popped off at on time and blew oil everywhere LOL. I have the two banjo bolts removed at the moment. Both of which were hacksawed off and the line clamped to both ends. Can I just seal off the openings or just reseal both lines with crush washers and put the line back on? It's not given me trouble since I added an extra clamp. But I do want to be able to make sure that I'm leak free. I'll eventually put a cooler in but for now I'm pressed for time. I'm also stuck with which oil switch is the correct one to use.
 
Can I just seal off the openings or just reseal both lines with crush washers and put the line back on?


I wouldn't seal off the openings. If you truly have a 90 housing, oil directing to the cooler is thermostat controlled. If you aren't going to run a cooler, loop the lines. Don't block them. Blocking them would force the system to use the bypass valve 100% of the time. You don't want that.

As for which oil switches go where.

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The oil switch is small and controls the oil light. Here

The oild sender unit is large and round and controls the gauge. Here
 

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Solution
You can plug the oil cooler ports but you'll also have to remove the bypass valve and plug it.
 
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Last edited by a moderator:
ok aparently my housing only has one spot for either the switch OR a sending unit.

the sending unit is what i originally had installed, it did also keep the oil light off. i'll return the oil switch and replace the other sending unit. as for the line can crush washers seal it or do i have to use rtv ? it looked like it was sealed with rtv on steel washers

thanks for your help gentleman
 
So, I installed the oil pressure sending unit like it was but I noticed that the pigtail connection is tattered. Any ideas on where I can find a new one or new to me because I'm not getting a reading on the gauge. I used to but not any more.
 
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