What about an inaccurate, or slipped balancer, then setting timing accordingly and the timing is now waaay off?

92Turbski said:

What about an inaccurate, or slipped balancer, then setting timing accordingly and the timing is now waaay off?

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Well is hope not since it's a Fluidampr pulley. The little crank dowel is still intact and healthy as well.

Okay got the wheels and tires cleaned up and test fitted on the car. First off the rears definitely don't clear the trailing arm. I had to do a good bit of grinding off the "seam" or flashing of the trailing arm to keep both the wheel AND tire from rubbing. On top of that it REQUIRES at least a 5mm spacer. I test fitted after grinding the seam without the spacer and the wheel cleared but the tire does not.
Additionally found and ordered some some longer wheel studs to fix proper lug nut engagement with the 5mm spacers.

This setup is your standard 16x8" +40 FD wheel with a 235-50/16 tire setup.

Anyways onto the pictures. I seriously love this setup. It fits the wheel arches better (I think) it doesn't stick out as far as the RPF1 setup due to the higher positive offset. It just seems to fit the car better, Imo.


I did also run 5mm spacers on the front which I might take off since they don't need it. It'll help pull the wheels back just about flush with the fenders. I'm no "stance" Guru so is that okay to run small spacers in the rear and none up front?

Other notable mentions are:
drained the catch can since it was full. Disgusting.


Took the car out before I threw on the drag setup on. Made it to a season opener cars n coffee with my brother and his supercharged jeep.

92Turbski said:

What about an inaccurate, or slipped balancer, then setting timing accordingly and the timing is now waaay off?

Click to expand...

So you were onto something here. I'll update tomorrow.

Short version, car made weird metal sound in the timing area today. I looked into it and found what it was and I think I saved my engine

Anfurnyy said:

since it's a Fluidampr pulley.

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If it's a fluidampr, sometimes there is an error that the timing mark is off by a few degrees from factory. Compare the TDC position with the crank plate timing mark or the factory crank pulley notch and put a mark in the correct position in case if it's off.

Okay so here's the scoop.

After the Cars n Coffee Saturday, I noticed a weird noise when I got home and parked. It was coming coming from the timing side of things.

Starting digging into it yesterday and started by taking the water pump and alternator belts off and started the car. Still there.

Pulled the balancer and started it. Still there.
Thought maybe a timing pulley was going bad or something. I noticed a lot of kind of "dust" inside the timing cover and some really small slices of what looked like sheet metal stuck to the crank sensor when I had the timing apart this last time. I thought it was weird but I couldn't find anything wrong and the bearings all looked and felt good.

Pulled the timing cover and right there staring me in the face was another huge piece of that sheet metal. Wtf is this. Then I saw it. The Kiggly diamond friction plates were completely shredded. Both of them, in front of and behind the crank trigger wheel.


I went to slide the crank gear off and it wouldn't come off AND it had a bit of play in it.
Ended up having to heat up the crank and walk it off with screwdrivers, it landed on my arm and melted some skin and left some welts from the heat.


Anyways the crank key, kiggly trigger wheel, crank pulley and obvious the diamond disks are toast. The keyways are tapered and have some pretty significant wear marks in them and the woodruff key actually looks bent.

Crank key looks fine by my eyes


I honestly have no clue how this happened. The crank bolt was tight. Tight enough I needed an impact to get it off but I admit I never actually "torqued" it. I just kinda ugga dugguhed it on there.

I'm going to message Kiggly and see what they says as to how or why this would have happened.

Also if anyone here has any ideas I'm seriously all ears.

I have all new ruined parts on order including new crank bolt and washer.

Daaaang, dude! Thats frigging nuts!
And, good catch.
Id be curious to see what Kiggly says as im sure you're not the first high power DSM to experience this.

Got to be 100% a torque/ 1-2 ooga dooga related incident. If I were to guess.

Replacing a couple of those parts are a hell of a lot better than the motor!

Wild, man!

Forgot to upload video of the "play" in the crank sprocket.

92Turbski said:

Daaaang, dude! Thats frigging nuts!
And, good catch.
Id be curious to see what Kiggly says as im sure you're not the first high power DSM to experience this.

Got to be 100% a torque/ 1-2 ooga dooga related incident. If I were to guess.

Replacing a couple of those parts are a hell of a lot better than the motor!

Wild, man!

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Yeah I'm definitely going to torque the crank bolt this time. When wiggling the crank sprocket it looked like key moved with the crank sprocket which initially let me to think the crank key was wobbled out. Thankfully after getting it all off it looks like the crank is fine.

You have your balance shaft removed. Do you have the part MD128107 installed? The spacer? If not, would that help?

GIB said:

You have your balance shaft removed. Do you have the part MD128107 installed? The spacer? If not, would that help?

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The Kiggly trigger wheel replaces that behind the crank sprocket

So while waiting for parts, I'm also going to pull the turbo tonight and swap out the turbine housing for the 1.01ar housing on it and see what we gain from that.

In case anyone wanted to see the difference between a .83 and a 1.01 housing here you go.

That housings huge

1cleangsx said:

That housings huge

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It's a big ol girl for sure.

Well got the turbine housing installed. I forgot how much I hate pulling the turbo. There's just no good way to not make a mess with coolant from the feed / return lines.

Also the .83 housing was pretty seized on the turbo so I had to blast it with heat, penetrating oil and my dead blow to get it to crack loose. Yes I did it carefully.

Crank parts show up tomorrow. In nervous to test fit everything again and see if there's no play. I'm praying not. Don't really want to rebuild this thing.

Okay so I've got good news and I have bad news.

Good new first-
The new crank stuff fits snug and there's no play in the crank / timing side of things anymore so the crank seems fine! Got the car back together and it fired up just fine and runs fine as well. For the life of me I could not get the crank bolt actually torqued. Gonna see if I can have my wife help with that somehow. Maybe holding the brakes? I gave it some crisp butts of my pneumatic impact for now.

Onto the bad-
I tried priming the oil pressure to get some oil in the turboby unplugging the injectors and turning it over. I cranked it I think 3 times for probably 15 seconds or so each and it wouldn't build any pressure at all. So I decided to plug in the injectors and fire it up and it built 80+ psi instantly.

Turbo was making some pretty loud noises. I 100% verified neither of the wheels were touching the housings, it spins free but it doesn't spin as long as it used to. When turning the car off it comes to a stop in about 2 - 3 seconds where as before it has spun down for just about a minute. After talking to my turbo guy it sounds like something with the bearings are shot. I don't know if it's because the "dry" start, or smacking the shit out of the housing with a dead blow and regrettibly but Honestly I had to use my air hammer to get the old housing off. I'm pretty sure THAT is the reason why its doing weird stuff now.



My turbo guy set me up with a new super core to swap my housings onto so I'm gonna do that and see about getting this one rebuilt and I can try to sell it maybe or just have a spare.

Okay so REALLY cool new development in the Xona Rotor stuff.

They've released a new turbine housing that bolts onto the xona turbos BUT has Garret VBand flanges.

So I can now use a xona turbo with my garrett flanges Morrison Fab hot parts.
Fresh new turbo might be coming in sooner than I expected!

Some more good news too!

Talon is getting a new windshield!
I scheduled something through Safelite and just confirmed they have the windshield already delivered to their shop (appointment is on the 2nd). $175! Stoked for that. Wasn't sure if they were going to be able to order one.

Hell yeah on the windshield. Also interested on the xona stuff. Curious on a turbine for my turbo. Justin suggested it.

92AWDHX40 said:

Hell yeah on the windshield. Also interested on the xona stuff. Curious on a turbine for my turbo. Justin suggested it.

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When I move I'm going to the .64 ar after seeing McKenzie Langes setup with that housing I'm sold.

Is he 3d creations owner too.

Yes McKenzie Lange is one of the owners

So we're back in business. I ended up ordering a rebuild kit. Embarrassingly from eBay because the ONLY other place I could find one was pulsar and they're +$400 for shipping and Teriffs AND because my turbo guy still hasn't shipped out my turbo yet..

Rebuilt kit seemed good, identical to the one that came out. We'll see how long this lasts. Once I get some finance stuff in order I'll be moving to the Xona turbo setup.

Got windshield appointment Saturday, and then a 80s and 90s car show on the 9th the Talon is in.

Still need to get some longer wheel studs for the rear of the car because the 5mm spacers.

Got the car back together per my previous post and was able to go for a drive. Turbo seems fine! I didn't really lay into it because I want the car to last at least until next weekend for the car show.

Safelite showed up and replace the windshield. Absolutely stoked for this. Went off without a hitch. Looks much cleaner now.


While he had the hood open removing the cowl I stopped and took a picture to just kind of appreciate this thing. I get so caught up in working on it and driving it and tuning that I don't take a second to appreciate it.


Also here's the glass model number for anything looking. Hopefully his helps someone