ECMlink WOT tuning

[Dert]

Hey guys, I searched and could not find what I'm looking for.

I'm looking for fairly well detailed instructions for WOT tuning with v3 ECMLink (I have v3 lite). I installed 650's, and just put in my 190lph waly today.

I have my idle tune perfect, AFR's 14.7 area, combined fuel trim -.5-1%, airflow per rev @.25, etc. I have my cruise also adjusted good, but at WOT I have fuel sliders adjusted so I am at 11.0 AFR's but I keep getting .7-2 counts of knock from 4500-6500 rpm. If move the timing sliders down it gets rid of the knock but the car sucks , power is lost, you don't feel the power band like with timing sliders zeroed.

I did boost leak test and there are none.

How do you tune to make power but not get knock? I left the timing sliders at 0 and will put up with the 2* knock rather than have a car with the power of a Honda motor . There is plenty of info out there for idle and cruise tuning but hardly any for WOT, so if someone can provide some that would be muchly appreciated.

edit :I provided a log of the extremely sad and pathetic 3rd gear pull with timing sliders adjusted to eliminate the knock, with the sliders 0'd the horespower value was around 303 mark, with the knock eliminated by moving sliders its barely 200, like I said, the car lost all its power...

 

[JayRolla]

Try to richen the AFR up. Say 10.5-10.9. On pump gas I could get the most out of boost and timing with a rich AFR. Also try to lower the timing and then raise the boost a little. This should give you your power back and may not detonate. I like to run real low timing, rich AFR and as much boost possible when I ran pump gas back in the day.

 

[jjrock5]

Which turbo? Is your BoostEst correct?

 

[Dert]

On ported Evo3, that's the weird thing, with timing sliders 0'd BoostEst matched my boost gauge (20psi) but with them adjusted to get rid of the knock, BoostEst only hits 16psi then drops to like 13 but my boost gauge stays at 20.

Like I said there are no boost leaks so this "less boost thing" is wierd, I have my timing 0'd right now and car pulls like a champ but I'm getting a bit of knock at 4700 rpm and up. By the way jrock, I followed your youtube fuel pump video, detail in it is perfect bro, very helpful, you know, you should do a WOT tuning video

 

[banishedmunk]

The timing sliders have nothing to do with your BoostEst lining up with actual. Make sure that your actual and BoostEst line up in the 5500-6000 rpm range then, as stated, pull timing and add boost. Pump gas loves boost and low timing. Set the timing at what you would like it to be. then set your AFR's. Then if you are knock free manipulate the timing in small increments. Remember if you set the AFRs to 11.0:1 in hot weather it will lean out when it gets cold, so keep that in mind weather changes stuff dramatically.

 

[97-gst]

Umm, why are your injectors flowing 1660cc/min if they're only 650's?
Dude your intake temp is 112 degrees, that might be something to do with the loss of power.
BoostEst has to be calibrated for it to match the boost gauge, its not a boost leak, your front O2 looks dead.

IMO I'd try and raise timing to stock and take the sliders for your fuel and at about 3k -7k drop it to -35%, I'd just try that and see if it helps it any. Post up a log of it at stock timing when you get a chance.

 

[Dert]

Also, deadtime is at 105, isn't that really low for 650's? The guy I bought em off said he had it at 315.

Is it better to run low timing with high boost or high timing low boost? I wanna try to make some decent power with this Evo 3 but it doesn't seem to happening

 

[97-gst]

I mean did you even see my post? Your intake temp is hot, it shows all the way to 130 degrees.

 

[Dert]

How are you supposed to lower the temps? I noticed since the tubular header install the engine bay is always hot, i figured it was due to no longer having a heat shield, shouldnt the addition of a front mount lower the temps? If it comes down to removing the header to wrap with heat tape I'm just gunna buy an fp mani and put the heat shield back on

 

[JFZERO ECLIPSE]

Yeah a front mount lowers the temperature of the charged or pressurized air but it has nothing to do with the air that comes through the air filter and through the MAF. That's where its getting its temp reading from.

You should either get the header jet-hot coated, swaintech coated, etc. Just something to help keep the heat in the exhaust and outta the engine bay. Also you could try to make a heatsheild for the intake pipe and maybe have some ducting ran from the SMIC area and force it up into the filter.

 

[Dert]

Oh I see, I always thought the intake temp was the temp at intake after throttle body, not air filter intake, and it was 27* C when I did the log. I'm sure I can fab sumthing up to make colder air hit the filter.

 

[97-gst]

I'd look into replacing the front O2 if i were you, its reading 0 at WOT.

 

[Dert]

I'd look into replacing the front o2 if i were you...its reading 0 at WOT

I'm going to do another pull tomorow or later tonight and see if it still reads 0. That's the only time it's ever gone to 0 and its kind of funny that it happens to be on the pull that felt like sh#t. I'll try and get another log tonight when the wife gets home, or maybe in the a.m. and see if it is still doing it.

Looking back a older logs the intake temp has never been that high, I wonder if all the heat in the engine bay fried the sensor that day? If so what sensor should I replace it with, OEM? I don't need a wideband as I have one in the rear already but I guess if I had to I could always throw it in the front location and move the toasted sensor installed in the rear not hooked up and run narrowband sim? Options please.

 

[njdaewoo]

@ Dert.... I dont know if you read my post about "knocking afther knock sensor replacement" post. Im in a similair situation when trying to run about 20lbs I have my timing really retarded. Its about 10 degrees and most of the time its around 8-9 degrees. Just like u said, when the timing is advanced the car feels like its on steroids... Im thinking the sensor maybe picking up valvetrain noise. Im gonna try some nylon or fiber washers to see if that de-sensensatize the sensor some... later,, this cell phone posting sucks..

 

[Dert]

I'd look into replacing the front o2 if i were you...its reading 0 at WOT

Yeah, every pull I do now it goes to 0, gas mileage is shit too. I looked back a previous logs and it was reading fine so it looks like it finally crapped out, I guess it did not too bad being that its the original, it lived for 96000 miles.