ECMlink ECMLink WOT Tuning

[bigolsackapoo]

Okay this is a noob question, but I cannot find information...
Also bought the ecmlink second hand so I have no access to the forums

How do I go about wot tuning? Is it just pulling timing from MaxOct and fuel from the sliders?

I have a wideband, and I also have the idle/cruise set up.
Combft- about 1%
gm/rev- .24-.26ish
i have the correct deadtime and adjustment for my injectors also.
The car is idling/driving well, but its in the 10's afr wise as soon as I get some boost

Mods-
20g
fic 750's
255 wally
gm maf
fmic
etc etc


I added a pull with a fuel table edited by DSMtyson. I also corrected my tps so that it reads 100% at wot. Timing is stock (this car used to be an auto, and still has auto cams).

 

[xezerax]

I'm assuming you have v3? Whenever tuning WOT its best to either stick with the table or the sliders and not both so it doesn't get too confusing. I have pretty much always used the sliders. From there its the same as tuning anything else, just pull a little fuel at a time until you are where you want to be afr wise.

 

[bigolsackapoo]

Yeah I have v3. I just assumed I would get more power overall by adjusting both. But the sliders seem to be waaaayyy easier haha. Especially when I have the ability to log my wbo2

 

[DSM nOOb]

Email tom dorris from ecmlink im sure he'll hook you up with an account as long as you purchased a valid copy of ecmlink not a reproduction.

You will actually be able to get more power by using the tables rather than the sliders. Using the sliders will adjust in areas that might not need adjusting. As long as you know how to use the track datalog feature it really isn't that hard.

 

[snowborder714]

Grab a 3rd gear WOT log from 2k to redline and post it up.

 

[Pirrofab]

You should be able to go to the ecmtuning website and watch the demo videos without having an account. Once you datalog a 3rd gear pull you can begin to calibrate the maf readouts for wot compared to your lb/min readouts. Then use the track datalog feature to adjust timing as per knock readings and finally adjust max octane table or your fuel sliders. What ever is easier. Once I understood the tables they are very easy to read and adjust. I like to think to myself that the fuel and timing sliders are for quick adjustments for when your at the track and just need to richen something up or lean it out a tad and revert quickly back to your normal settings when your done.
I personally adjust for fuel last as timing will affect Afr slightly. Make sure you also correct any boost leaks before any tuning whether it be partial throttle or w.o.t. as a boost leak could potentially act as a vacuum leak if large enough and throw off any sort of maf adjustment. Your fuel trims could still work out and be "correct" when in fact they are correct because it was tuned with a vacuum line broken.

Also keep in mind that when your Afr are dialed in make another 3rd gear pull and if there is no knock you can try adding a little bit of timing to make extra power. Up to 5 counts of knock is "safe" and the ecu will except that value, any more and it will pull timing. Ultimately tuning for no knock is best.

Hope that helped. Sorry if I dragged it out but I didn't know how else to explain it.

 

[bigolsackapoo]

okay thanks for the info. Ill go grab that log now..

Here is a pull from 2k-6.6ish in 3rd.
I didnt want to take her all the way to redline, it kills me to see it haha

Oh also boostest is spot on. Im right at about 22psi, and it estimates 22 from 5500-6000ish right where it should be

 

[doubleclutch99]

Your dtc's say that you have a knock sensor malfunction. and if you log your wide band it'll help out with tuning. but look at the knock sensor issue first. I'm betting it's dead or not plugged in.

 

[beihl304]

I noticed that your throttle position never reached 100%. Did you not put the pedal all the way to the floor? If you did you should use the TPS adjustment tool.

 

[DSMTyson]

Try that Open loop Max octance table. That should be a perfectly safe table and you should see some power increase. Just watch your wide band.

And do an actual WOT pull for us. Please.

 

[bigolsackapoo]

Try that Open loop Max octance table. That should be a perfectly safe table and you should see some power increase. Just watch your wide band.

And do an actual WOT pull for us. Please.

Thanks. And sorry the roads near by arent very good for pulls... Ill get a good one while iim out tomorrow.

 

[DSMTyson]

Thanks. And sorry the roads near by arent very good for pulls... Ill get a good one while iim out tomorrow.

Just be careful. If it doesn't feel right, don't do it.

 

[bigolsackapoo]

Just be careful. If it doesn't feel right, don't do it.

On my way home today I had good access to some long stretches of unpopulated roads, so I took a pull with your fuel table.

^^^ I posted that log in the OP

 

[TurboAnything]

looks lean and have a few degrees of knock retard. What was the wideband reading? You need to match up you boost est to actual boost to achieve the AFR the open loop table is calling for.

 

[doubleclutch99]

You still have the knock sensor malfunction in your Diagnostic trouble codes. and it shows it in the log that you have 3.2 degrees of knock retard through out the whole pull. it's probably throwing the ecu into limp mode. Check the knock sensor out.

 

[bigolsackapoo]

Yeah the knock sensor is faulty. I have one on order Im just waiting for it to arrive.

 

[doubleclutch99]

That should fix alot for you. but youll still have to tune

 

[bigolsackapoo]

Also other than setting the Boostest preferences is there any other way to dial it in? I reset my altitude and it seems more accurate now from 5500-6500 right around 22-23psi