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Which Turbo Should I Get [merged] What Turbo

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Ludachris

Founder & Zookeeper
8,831
4,642
Nov 12, 2001
Newcastle, California
Which turbo will be sufficient for consistent 11 second times? I've recently decided on a big 16g, but will that be big enough to run 11s with supporting mods and decent tuning? Remember, this is for a budget street car, so any one purchase over $1k is tough. A big 16g will run about $700-900, which is about $300-400 less than the larger alternatives.

Of course, I'll need lots of practice to run these times, but, I just want to make sure that it's possible before the money is spent.
 
Nope. The stock bottem end can handle 400whp fine. The stock transmission can handle 40whp fine.

For the level of performance from an 18g, I'd still get a higher flowing bolt-on turbo that spools faster and costs quite a bit less: hx35 or h1c in a bep housing. My td05h 18g spooled slower than my h1c. It likes high boost and loves pump gas way better than the "pumpgas king" 50-trim.

Or if you want under 400whp the 16g is for you. But still not as cheap as a holset. All you need to bolt on a $200 h1c or $300 hx35 is a small bep housing, an elbow and coupler, 4" intake, a dent in your water pipe and an adapter fitting for your oil inlet line. You already have a drain line that will match and the proper location to feed oil to the turbo. You need an install kit for the 16g that will cost more than the above neccesary parts. My h1c spools as fast as my small 16g. And flows 4lbs/min more everywhere in the rev range at the same boost.

Remember, money is NOT everything to some people when trying to build a performance engine. Some things may be cheaper, but most people would prefer plug-and-play bolt ons. I'd pay a little more knowing I didnt need to dent water pipes, buy adapters and fittings. The stock trans is OK depending on how old it is and how well maintained/treated is is/was. A built bottom end will provide (overkill again) insurance and you can increase your compression and install forged internals for reliability. I've overboosted my engine twice (22psi spike on stock fuel system) and the compression is still 195+ all cylinders. Whats a BEP housing BTW?
 
Remember, money is NOT everything to some people when trying to build a performance engine. Some things may be cheaper, but most people would prefer plug-and-play bolt ons. I'd pay a little more knowing I didnt need to dent water pipes, buy adapters and fittings. The stock trans is OK depending on how old it is and how well maintained/treated is is/was. A built bottom end will provide (overkill again) insurance and you can increase your compression and install forged internals for reliability. I've overboosted my engine twice (22psi spike on stock fuel system) and the compression is still 195+ all cylinders. Whats a BEP housing BTW?

He has a 2g. The holset with a BEP (bullseye performance) turbine housing is MORE bolton than a MHI 20g/18g/16g/14b. The stock oil retuneline "works" on a holset or garrett but not an MHI. It has to be shortened. The oil feed location does not have to be moved to the head or a more expensive banjo adapter does not need to be purchased. All that is needed is a adapter fitting from the oil line to the holset inlet. The stock intercooler piping can be used with just a reducer and steel/aluminum elbow. The j-pipe is neccesary with an MHI turbo AND some way to get the 2g piping to connect since it is larger and located farther away from the jpipe outlet than a 1g. It is cheaper and more bolton than a 16g, IMHO. You do need to dent the water pipe. Holsets are amazingly reliable and spool faster than the 18g or 20g yet provide more potential. But to each his own:thumb:.
 
Another question, not really my post, so I shouldn't be posting it here I think..
I have a 16g turbo, its TD05H.. was wondering if its a big16g or a small.. I'm guessing a small, just cause its not very big at all..

The only difference (and I may be wrong here so please don't flame me if I am) is that the big 16G has a sightly bigger compressor wheel. You probably won't see a big 16G and say to yourself (well I can tell that's much bigger than a S16G). There is a way to check on the housing which one you have but it escapes me how at the moment.
 
Hey there guys, so I have a 95 gst with about 108,xxx miles on the car. The only mods I've made are the following.
1.Greddy RS BOV
2.Greddy intercooler pipes. (upper & lower)
3.Intake

The stock turbo does not give me any turbo play, there for I want to upgrade. Can I get some brands or prices regarding the turbos. I am leaning towards a small 16g. What do you guys think? Some suggestions........ :coy:

STOCK ENGINE
 

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I'm not sure having no turbo play is a good reason to upgrade.... it all depends on how much horsepower you're looking to get, and keep in mind that with a bigger turbo you'll have to get something to tune with.
 
hey guys i still have my stock 14b and it doesnt seem to make me happy i want something fun and i can feel it spooling... but i want to keep it at 12 psi ( my engine is all stock besides air filter and MBC )

what do you guys think would be good thank you
 
You can always do the ever-common 16g mod. It's not a HUGE turbo or anything like that but it will definitely give you that extra kick that you want and wont cost that much to change it over since you want to run basically stock boost levels. I've seen some 16g kits at pretty low prices and I've seen cars running 16g's in the low 13s before so it's definitely a better turbo than the stock turbo.
 
You can always do the ever-common 16g mod. It's not a HUGE turbo or anything like that but it will definitely give you that extra kick that you want and wont cost that much to change it over since you want to run basically stock boost levels. I've seen some 16g kits at pretty low prices and I've seen cars running 16g's in the low 13s before so it's definitely a better turbo than the stock turbo.

awesome thanx man
 
just bought a 92 eagle talon idles fine will not take the gas black smoke out the tail ...i think the turbo is shot has 95000 miles on it if id upgrade whole system what should i go with........was looking at the 20g on ebay is that any good ..thanks for your help
 
post a link, I personally would go with a 16g off ebay. I know there is one person on here that runs a 20g off ebay. try searching you will probably find it.
 
If you haven't read the VFAQ, don't upgrade your turbo.

If you haven't upgraded your fuel pump, injectors, have datalogging/tuning equipment, haven't rewired your fuel pump, or if you don't have an aftermarket boost gauge, don't upgrade your turbo.

If you do not know how to, or have not yet, performed a boost leak test, do not upgrade your turbo.

If you don't have horsepower goals, don't upgrade your turbo.

And if you cannot find the spell check feature on Firefox or Internet Explorer, do not upgrade your turbo.

Made it this far? Then go for a 16g. From a reputable vendor. Then install it and do a boost leak test.

If there's black smoke coming from the tailpipe, you need to get a thorough inspection from a certified technician to find out what's causing it before you start throwing parts blindly at it.
 
That's the hard part,finding a certified technician to figure out why you have black smoke.It's sad to say,but one out of ten non DSM owner mechanics would find your problem quickly.
 
i tried the boost check and sounded like it was going out the exhaust wouldnt pressure up .....and im still learning about the turbos so thought ..its time to go to the garage and see what they tell me before i put out a bunch of money and not fix it .......im almost positive there is a boost leak somewhere guess ill find out today
 
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