Which Turbo Should I Get [merged] What Turbo

[Ludachris]

Which turbo will be sufficient for consistent 11 second times? I've recently decided on a big 16g, but will that be big enough to run 11s with supporting mods and decent tuning? Remember, this is for a budget street car, so any one purchase over $1k is tough. A big 16g will run about $700-900, which is about $300-400 less than the larger alternatives.

Of course, I'll need lots of practice to run these times, but, I just want to make sure that it's possible before the money is spent.

 

[Jst4Cyl]

The problem is, he doesn't have a 2G seven-bolt. He has a 1G automatic seven-bolt. The chart has zero real bearing on the conversation, aside from saying that the automatic came with a smaller turbo, lower lift cams, smaller injectors and a higher base fuel pressure.

To me that holds a pretty good bearing on the topic. The OP was wondering what turbo he had and since then has grown into what he could upgrade to. This way he can look at the chart and see a few things that would be some cheap and beneficial upgrades. With that being said I believe that the OP could benefit from knowing the information I posted

Thanks for the info on the Rep points. I hadn't heard of why they weren't being used so I thought I would toss that into the post.

 

[TiradoCC]

eddielujan I live in texas also and I just took a 14b off a 6 bolt I bought....let me know if your interested. Has very little play and includes everything, water lines, jpipe, o2 housing etc.....

 

[eddielujan]

Okay I finally took of the turbo w/manifold and all. The fins seem to be fine, now I have to take the O2 housing of the turbo to look at the other side, now how the hell do I do that??

 

[TiradoCC]

You need to take off 3-14 mm bolts and 1-14 mm nut that holds the o2 housin to the turbo. They might be on there pretty tight because of the rust......

 

[eddielujan]

Ok here is the other side, turbo has very little side to side play looks good, now how would I determine if its the seals on the turbo??

 

[TiradoCC]

The turbo doesn't look bad. Only way see to check the seals is by opening up the turbo....

 

[eddielujan]

ok, I found that whatever the hell I'm holding in the photos (not the turbine but behind it) is loose. I could move it back and forth, also when I move it towards the wheel, it has a hard spin and rubs. On the first photo there is no gap cause I'm pushing it in and on the other photos I'm pushing it out toward the wheel and it showing a gap, oil maybe be sipping thru that gap causing it to smoke, Correct?? I'm not to sure my first time taking this kind of stuff apart.

 

[eddielujan]

ct78155 how much for that 14b??

 

[TiradoCC]

That is the sheetmetal guard I think its called. Its normal for it to move around like that....when you spin the wheel you will hear it rub a little, thats normal. And the gap is also normal.
Man I don't think im going to sell it anymore unless I get a good offer, ive spent a couple of days porting the exhaust housing and the o2 housing

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Top is a small 16g and bottom is a 14b.

 

[eddielujan]

good job on the porting. So now I'm back to the question of turbo seals, how do I open up the turbo?? do I have to unbolt the three bolt on the turbo?

 

[TiradoCC]

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/Turbo-rebuild.html
Here you go just follow this.....its for a 14b or 16g but it's basically the same thing.
If you need help though just let me know and i'll help you out as much as I can.

 

[sniperelite]

Hey I found out that someone locally near me is selling a Garrett and AMS turbo and the prices seemed pretty good I just wanted to know do you guys think I should jump on one of these or wait for something else to come along? Here is the post he had "AMS GT35RL Aprox. 15,000 Miles, .63 A/R Turbine, 3" Inlet, Turbonetics Elbow, Never seen more than 24psi mostly run on 16psi - $900 Now needs to go as soon as possible.

- Garrett GT4088 w/ PTE .81 A/R Turbine, 4" Inlet, 2.5" Outlet - $900 MUST GO QUICK. Buy this and get something for <$100 FREE! *New* "

I am going to do a 6 bolt swap on my car and I wasn't planning to make it a stroker so do you think if I had pretty much a fully built 6bolt (272 cams, ported - polished head, magnus intake manifold and dnp tubular exhaust manifold, FFWD fuel system, eagle rods/wiseco pistons, and butcher crank from FFWD) do you think one of these turbos would be good for this setup? I haven't bought any of these parts yet but I am getting the 6 bolt block and head in a few days. Do you think it would be better to get one of these turbos first because of the price? Or should I wait until something else comes along and just start buying other things first instead of the turbo? Oh and I am planning to eventually get into the 10's so I will need a big turbo.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

The price for the 4088 is good. BUT if I were you I wouldn't get it yet. Those deal's will come, and go, and I think that if you have the $$$ to get it you should buy the supporting mod's for that turbo, or equal turbo, then after everything is done, then get it.

 

[Evil04c]

Uh, Mod your car little by little so you recognize where the power is at. It takes A LOT for a 10 sec car. And unless your doing all your own work, your gonna pay out the ass to have your motor built and tuned. Go small and work your way up. Get your supporting mods, and get a bigger turbo, and go from there.

 

[pitbull419]

You would need some serious fuel and air for the gt 40. And with that comes serious tuning.
You would also be looking at fixtures to help reduce lag.
Altho 900 is a good price, i would say spend the money on the supporting mods.

 

[TalonF4AWD]

I know there's been alot of questions over the years about which turbo is good for me yaddy-yaddy-yah but I'd appreciate some advice.

All mods are in my profile. The car came with a Frank 4 but this car will be daily driven. My goal is anywhere between 360-450whp (depending on how well the stock axles/center diff can hold up to this power) and decent spool. Money is and isn't an object (explained on bottom paragraph). I've never owned a turbo car to experience spool-up times. I've had experience first-hand by riding in my friends WRX where his boost came strong around 3,800-4kRPM's and didn't seem too laggy but I've also never rode in a car with a very quick spool. I'm not a complete newb when it comes to turbochargers and everything that supports them, so please don't treat me like one.

The car will have and be tuned on 264/272 or similar cams (probably the FP series cams, currently has stock cams). I looked at the Evo3 16g but it'd be maxed out at that power and 50trim's like the SBR G50 or a BB50. I've also looked at the FP3052 and similar but I believe those are most likely overkill.

My question is, would it make financial/common sense to sell the Frank turbo (if they even sell anymore) and buy another turbo. Or just stick with the turbo and get tuned for around the power I want. I've read up alot on all the different turbo's, looking at other peoples setups and what-not trying to get ideas.
I've searched about the Frank 4's on here but all I see is "they're obsolete", "they're crap" or "they're old POS" or anything truely informative about them at all (I know they're old-school turbo's). I'd like to know the specific spool up on this turbo, if possible, and is it even worth spending extra money to replace it when this turbo could easily meet my power goals. The only thing I don't know about this turbo is it's spooling characteristics and how it acts on the street. I know it's bigger than a 20g and has more lag than one. I pretty much have every supportive mod, with exception of a built tranny, diff's, axles etc, so I'm very sure the car can handle it.

Thanks for any and all real help ya'll can give.

 

[We're on Boost]

I've searched about the Frank 4's on here but all I see is "they're obsolete", "they're crap" or "they're old POS" or anything truely informative about them at all (I know they're old-school turbo's). I'd like to know the specific spool up on this turbo, if possible, and is it even worth spending extra money to replace it when this turbo could easily meet my power goals. The only thing I don't know about this turbo is it's spooling characteristics and how it acts on the street. I know it's bigger than a 20g and has more lag than one.

There is a really good writeup for you in the VFAQS here:

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/Turbo-compare.html

This chart and article compares the whole range of mitsu based turbos including the Frank 1 through 5. I would say read every word! It will answer a lot of your questions. I don't see why the Franks would really be "obsolete" just that FP doesn't make them anymore because they think the "Green" is better.

Looks to me like you need something about the size of a 50 trim. There are a lot of 50 trim users on-line so you can find a lot of user info on how well they work out. The FP3150 is actually a 50 trim and probably a very good one. On your hp goal, if you want more than 400hp on pump gas you might need something a little bigger than a 50 trim, but on race gas a 50trim can do well over 400hp. Most of the Garrett based turbos that come configured with an internal wastegate and a mitsu style turbine housing are, well, the wastegate performance isn't always so good. If you want to see what I mean about that, check out this link:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208481

Check out the boost curves and the torque curves. Most of them have a deep dip in the middle where the internal gate blows open. If cost isn't a big problem, go external wastegate. Keep in mind those turbos were all tested on race gas. The mitsu turbos look really good for their size on race gas. Their internal wastegates also work a lot better than the others. But most people say that on pump gas, the bigger turbos like the 50 trim and up are the way to get 400hp on pump gas. When I say bigger than 50 trim I mean like a GT series Garrett or an S256. If you want to be brave and try out something new and different, search DSMtuners for "S256" and read about that (search whole thread not just titles). There are a couple guys in progress with S256 projects right now and also a guy doing an S258.
If money is really not a problem, convert your manifold and exhaust to T3 (instead of mitsu style) with an external wastegate on the Exhaust manifold. Then you can swap different T3 turbos in and out all you want (all you can afford). If you want to stick with mitsu style exhaust flanges, that would mean any non-mitsu turbo you get has to have a mitsu style turbine housing to bolt up, then I would recommend stick with either "Forced Performance" or "Precision Turbo and Engine" or "Bullseye" for your turbo supplier. Yeah, it can get complicated trying to figure it all out!

Gary

 

[tenn-gsx]

Ok so Im going to be looking to upgrade either with taxes or when I return from Afghanistan. Ill be going Bosh fuel pump, 1000-1600cc injectors, and a built 2.0. Going to rev only to about 8-8.5k. This will still be a daily driver with weekend duty. I want a turbo that will be at full boost at or below 4k and still give gobs of power. Would like to be capable of high 10s to mid 11s. I know that im askin alot and it might not be possible. Just would like to know what the best choice at a reasonable price would be. That means the whole turbo set up, not just the turbo.

 

[dsmmike50t]

Bullseye site, An s200 or s300 with extended tip should do the job and spool quick.

 

[dsmmike50t]

Just found the link.


http://www.bullseyepower.com/u_eclipse.asp

 

[absolute_DSM]

GT35R Lots of big power with good enough spool.

BTW I love spending money after coming back from a deployment

 

[turbolover10]

Something along the lines of this. Umm gt35r...

http://www.amsperformance.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=21_39&products_id=447

 

[tenn-gsx]

I think my wife would kill me for spending that much on a turbo set up. Considering Im already replacing the engine, and transmission as well. Im thinking arround 1500-1800 is the price limit.

 

[dsmmike50t]

Buy the borg warner of ebay. I've seen the s300 there several times know and then all you need is the exhaust housing for the turbo from bullseye power and it will be way less than 1500.



S366 brand new is all I could find but maybe a lil too much for you

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/S366...006QQitemZ160177895540QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

[prostreetdsmx1]

slow your roll there bud. So you want to run 1000 or 1600 injectors.... that's a ton of fuel, literally.

There is now turbo that will smack you into your seat before 4k and make the kind of power that will make use of that fuel system.

If you want a turbo to run consistent 11's and make power in the range i would recommend you go with a PTE SCM5031 , PTE SCM3421 or Borg Warner S256 .

Any of the turbos i listed will get you into the 11's and 10's with a properly tuned setup. A good manifold (SBR is a great choice) and a good SS O2 housing like one from SLS will really kick ass. I've been using these turbos with such combos for years and customers keep coming back for more.

I would say you need to go to a 780cc injector, Walbro 255 pump, 272 cams and DSMlink. You should consider meth/alky injection as well. We pull 450-500whp on 93 w/ injection all the time with the 4G63. You wanna talk about some amazing power....

I hope the info helps, please feel free to let me know if you have any other questions and best of luck.

Thank you for your service, it's very much appreciated