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Which Turbo Should I Get [merged] What Turbo

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Ludachris

Founder & Zookeeper
8,831
4,642
Nov 12, 2001
Newcastle, California
Which turbo will be sufficient for consistent 11 second times? I've recently decided on a big 16g, but will that be big enough to run 11s with supporting mods and decent tuning? Remember, this is for a budget street car, so any one purchase over $1k is tough. A big 16g will run about $700-900, which is about $300-400 less than the larger alternatives.

Of course, I'll need lots of practice to run these times, but, I just want to make sure that it's possible before the money is spent.
 
no, dsmlink provides you with a chip.

I just got my dsmlink last week and so far I have had headaches trying to figure out this program...I know that eventually I will figue it out but for now, I want to kick my ECU as far as I can.
 
Hustler: Don't take this the wrong way, but did you read the instructions? Before I installed my link it was my daily reading (in the bathroom :) ) I read the instructions several times before it was installed. Then when I had my stroker put in my mechanic (DSMLink wiz) also went over a lot of things with me, but had I not understood the instructions it would of been way over my head.

Yes Link sends you a chip, and if you make significant changes to your set up and the chip is way off, you can send them $30 and the .ecu file and they will burn another chip with the new setting on it. So when you disconnect the battery you don't have to redo everything. Or also for the 1g's they sell a bettery back up type of thing. Go to DSMLink.com and they list everything. Also FFWDConnection.com has EPROM ecu's for sale if you can't find a FleaBay one. If not I will check with the local DSM shop here if they have one for sell if you would like.
 
Hustler: Don't take this the wrong way, but did you read the instructions? Before I installed my link it was my daily reading (in the bathroom :) ) I read the instructions several times before it was installed. Then when I had my stroker put in my mechanic (DSMLink wiz) also went over a lot of things with me, but had I not understood the instructions it would of been way over my head.

Yes Link sends you a chip, and if you make significant changes to your set up and the chip is way off, you can send them $30 and the .ecu file and they will burn another chip with the new setting on it. So when you disconnect the battery you don't have to redo everything. Or also for the 1g's they sell a bettery back up type of thing. Go to DSMLink.com and they list everything. Also FFWDConnection.com has EPROM ecu's for sale if you can't find a FleaBay one. If not I will check with the local DSM shop here if they have one for sell if you would like.



Only have to worry about memory loss with a 2g, 1gs have the memory board.

For a daily driver with a 2.3 liter, I would go with an FP Green/FP3052 sized turbo. You won't run into the problems that Andy Moraitis is having with running out of efficiency up top (hes pushing 27-28 Psi and the 50 trim is running out of breath) and it will still spool like crazy and be wicked up top. If you plan on going with high bost (over 25 psi) I would reccomend the ball bearing (fp3052) as it is more efficient, if sticking to a little lower boost levels, the FP green is a good choice.


As to the AEM... If you're spending that much on a standalone ECU do not waste it on an AEM. Autronic would be the direction I would go if spending that kind of money. I prefer DSMlink as it is a great solution that lets you control everything you need to, while keeping the benefits of the stock ECM. It does not do all the things that a full standalone like the Autronic would, but it will keep your 400hp DSM driving daily better than it did from the factory. To support tuning, I personally bought a Zeitronix wideband o2 sensory, as well as a MAP sensor.

I would also HIGHLY reccomend not using the unorthodox crank pulley. The only cranks that I have ever heard of snapping had "underdrive" pulleys on them. The reason for this is that they are not vibrational dampers, and allow too many harmonic resonances through the crank. The other side of this is that the underive pulley really doesn't do anything for increase performance.

I'm also saying nix the pacesetter and get a GOOD sheetmetal, or even just an evo3. If you use the FP3053, a stock EVO3 manifold would work perfectly, if you use a turbo that doesnt have the wastegate flange on the turbine, a Shearer Fab, or DNP would be a goo option.
 
thanks for all the advice, from the sounds of it i should get the FP 3052 for the awesome turbo response rather then the fp 3065 with great turbo response which is what my tuner told me. alot of people keep telling me to get rid of that unorthodox crank pulley and i probably would if i hadnt already balanced the entire rotating assembly with the lightened one. Should i still swap it out for a stock one? kind of hate to do that. can u swap a 91-94 eprom ecu into my 1990 so i can run dsmlink? something to do with swapping pins? anyone have one i can buy?
 
For a daily driver with a 2.3 liter, I would go with an FP Green/FP3052 sized turbo. You won't run into the problems that Andy Moraitis is having with running out of efficiency up top (hes pushing 27-28 Psi and the 50 trim is running out of breath) and it will still spool like crazy and be wicked up top.

It still held boost so it's not completely toasted, but I agree that it's off the map and turning it up past 27 psi won't do anything for airflow. If I had it to do over again, I'd look into a Switzer S256 or a PTE SCM-4431E. Those are great 360 journal bearing turbos that will flow in 55-58 lbs/min range and still spool quickly enough.
 
It's worth it to switch back to a stock crank pully. I think a good machine shop should be able to make the stock one balanced like the unorthodox pulley, but I'm not sure of the capabilities of those machines.

3052 would be my choice, however I'm going with the FP green for cheaper rebuilds. The 3052 will also allow you to use the EVO3 manifold, which will work well for you. Yes, cast mani's aren't quite as visually appealing as a tubular, but an uncracked cast mani is WAYYY better than a cracked tubular.
 
what do u think should i get the slowboy front mount with 3inch piping or 2.25? if i get aem ems can i still vent to the atmosphere?
 
here are some updated pics
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I have a 97 Eclipse spyder GST with stock internals. Some bolt on parts such as HKS cat-back exhaust, HKS intake, HKS SSQ BOV. I will change my exhaust piping from 2.5 inch to 3 inch and add a downpipe. Futhermore, i will add a FMIC with the upper piping. In the car is just the stock turbo with no boost contorller. I want to upgrade my turbo and still keep my stock internals and as far as the injectors let me know wats best? Which turbo? I'm just trying to achieve about anywhere from 350 Hp to 375Hp. Also a full tune up has been done to the car as well (plugs, wires, gaskets).
 
I know i probably need fuel mods i was thinking 650cc injectors. I was wanting to purchase a Big T-28 turbo upgrade....I was wondering if the stock internals can handle and what kind of boost can run?
 
Now when you say supporting do u mean engine internals because like I said....I want to know if the engine internals can handle the upgrade?
 
Trying to figure out which turbo to go with, i'm on a budget so the small 16g wins in that area, but as far as power output, don't know if it will meet my goals, the GT28R looks real nice since it's ball bearing so insane spool-up would be nice, but correct me if I'm wrong but won't I need to get a different manifold that's a non-mitsu style housing. Just threw the EVO 3 16g in the running for the hell of it, but how does it compare to the GT28R spool time, response, power output?


GT28R (private seller wants $600 has less than 400 miles on turbo)
the a/r on this turbo is 0.64 on turbine trim is 55 and compressor a/r is 0.42this is a ball bearing turbo and its oil and water-cooled bearing system

Small 16g (buying from a friend for $200)
slighty used, low miles no more than 1,000 miles on it


EVO 3 16g $499 (turbochargers.com)
Will be buying it brand new
 
Buy the EvoIII you will be very pleased. I wouldn't buy a turbo from anyone, you don't know what it has been through.
 
I'd go with the E3 over the T28, since you'd be getting a new turbo for less money. The s16G sounds good too for only $200, but I'd check it out and see what kind of shape it's in. I think the question you should be asking is whether it's worth it to spend more money and get a new E3 or just get the s16G for cheap.
 
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