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Which Turbo Should I Get [merged] What Turbo

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Ludachris

Founder & Zookeeper
8,831
4,642
Nov 12, 2001
Newcastle, California
Which turbo will be sufficient for consistent 11 second times? I've recently decided on a big 16g, but will that be big enough to run 11s with supporting mods and decent tuning? Remember, this is for a budget street car, so any one purchase over $1k is tough. A big 16g will run about $700-900, which is about $300-400 less than the larger alternatives.

Of course, I'll need lots of practice to run these times, but, I just want to make sure that it's possible before the money is spent.
 
I want to stay with stock internals untill it goes. I like to reach the 300-350 mark but horsepower isnt as important as track times. It will be mostly a street car but id like to be able to run mid to low 8's in the 1/8th mile. high boost to me 25-30+ but id like to be able to eventually run in the upper 20's for boost.
 
I recommend the Big T28. I have it on my car and love it. I run 24lbs at the track and 21 daily and am putting just over 320 down on pump and lower psi. Not sure what I ran in the 1/8th but ran 12.8 in the 1/4 with major tirespin. Great spool and as long as you get the 60 trim exhaust wheel it carries nicely into the RPM range. Plus you can use it with all of your stock intercooler piping.
 
Well there cost are similar . I like the small 16g its a good eighth mile turbo but for the 1/4 mile the evo 3 will when because it makes great top end power. But i would go with the evo 16g . But the small 16g is a great turbo also it will not disapoint you.
 
sly mantis said:
im not looking to make huge 400+ numbers, i really only want 300-350 hp at the CRANK.
from what i understand 550cc are more than enough for that, and i know the the evo3 can easily make the numbers i want and more but if a small 16g can make those numbers then why bother buying a big one, i really dont want more power than that.

That may sound weird but 300-350hp is good enough for me.



You. Need. To. Search.



http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=242309
http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240768 <--- check out post #10 for a graph
http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240502 <--- check out post #7 for some more graphs



Please read through all the posted threads above. But do a search as well.



Check out the link below. These are 580cc injectors, so they will flow a tad bit more, and they are only $50 more than the 550s.

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=16332&cat=628&page=1



EDIT: Also read through this thread (particularly at post #32, 34, and 35):

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=235270
 
instead of waisting your time why dont you build a awd condisdering you say money isnt a issue...you are never gonna hook up you can have an awd making 300 to 350 to the wheels and still run a 12 second pass. trust me make ## fwd streetable and make a high hp awd thats what i did, i have a 90 tsi awd and a 90 laser fwd daily driver...not trying to dis just trying to help you out..you can never launch a fwd like you can a awd
 
Good Luck i am glad someone else is doing this ### i was going to do the same thing this winter and build a 550 to 600 gst so yea post up on how everything goes i am excited to start on mine! as for everyone saying go awd specially the guy with the first gen yea first gens can run a 12 second pass on 300 hp a 2g could not, and everyone saying to go awd, the reason for not selling our FWD is ### we love our cars :)
 
red rs said:
instead of waisting your time why dont you build a awd condisdering you say money isnt a issue...you are never gonna hook up you can have an awd making 300 to 350 to the wheels and still run a 12 second pass. trust me make ## fwd streetable and make a high hp awd thats what i did, i have a 90 tsi awd and a 90 laser fwd daily driver...not trying to dis just trying to help you out..you can never launch a fwd like you can a awd

Welcome to 3.5 years ago NOOB.
 
hey i am not a noob just ### i dont post on the site much i have been working on eclipses for bout 1 and a half years so i know a little bit about cars i am just saying the reason we dont want to sell our FWD cars is ### you become attached to them you dont want to do all this work then just sell it my plans are to make a sweet fwd then get a awd first gen. wasnt trying to be a dick i am just sick of awd ppl telling fwd ppl to sell our cars
 
hey i am not a noob just ### i dont post on the site much i have been working on eclipses for bout 1 and a half years so i know a little bit about cars i am just saying the reason we dont want to sell our FWD cars is ### you become attached to them you dont want to do all this work then just sell it my plans are to make a sweet fwd then get a awd first gen. wasnt trying to be a dick i am just sick of awd ppl telling fwd ppl to sell our cars


Untwist your panties, son. If you scroll up, you will see I did not quote you. Therfore I was not talking to you.
 
Yup i am an idiot haha sorry i just assumed it was going to be directed towards what i said, yes i should start the untwisting of my panties now haha
 
Ok so im in the process of building a 2.3 stroker for a 1990 eclipse gsx

Wiseco pistons .20 over 8.8:1 compression
Eagle H beam rods
Block was line honed with arp head studs and torque plate.
Balance shafts eliminated.
Block was clearanced for the rods,oil squirters where bent out of the way, and main caps were clearanced.
Rotating assembly was balanced with a Unorthodox crank pulley.
ARP-Mains,rodbolts,headstuds,and crank bolt.
New front case and gears,water pump,new timing cover.

I need to pick out a awesome turbo. Im thinking maybe either the FP3065 or FP3052. Or should i get a GT30R or GT35R? or something else. With a 44mm wastegate on the o2 housing. MY goal is for the ultimate street car with high boost in mind with a methanol injection kit in the future. looking for at least 400+ whp. Car will be a daily driver with some track days.

ill be ordering some 950cc injectors along with a AEM EMS soon enough to take care of the timing and engine management. What map sensor should i get? i want to run as much boost as possible. Do i need all these sensors from AEM including-Ait sensor,coolant sensor,EGT sensor. Should i buy the AEM UEGO Wideband as well? Or i could run dsmlink but im having difficulty finding a 1990 eprom ecu. IF i have the money should i just go ahead and get the AEM EMS. i plan on having a professional tuner dyno tune the car.

Plus i already have- AFPR,ss fuel line kit and a walbro 255lph and a apexi afc2.

Other parts i have include a Magnus SMIM, Stage 5 ported head with 1mm ferrea stainless valves, crower springs and retainers, HKS adjustable cam gears, DONT have but need to buy some FP 3 stroker cams What do u think?
Future buys will be a
SBR racing front mount with 3inch pipe maybe a blow thru setup
Pacesetter header with armor coat
And a greddy bov or tial
koyo aluminum racing radiator

Here are some pics of the build and the car. i have yet to drive a dsm bought it with a blown head. Any advice would be great:D

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With a stroker, go big or go home. Sounds like you want big boost so go big.

Def go for the FP3s.... Im building a 2.3 and thats my cam of choice.

IMO I wouldnt go with a paceforgether header search for some reviews.... Find a nice DNP header or a big ported 2g type header.

Oh yea and post more pics. :D
 
absolute is right, go big. FP3065, w/ FP3x cams. Again like absolute said get a DNPerformance exhaust mani. As far as management yes get the AEM UEGO, GM3.3Bar map, but for a daily driver get DSMLink, granted you will be getting it tuned, but if you want to make adjustments GL if you have AEM. If I can learn DSMLink anyone can. With your crank pully, I always thought you should use a OEM, or Fluidmpr (or however it is spelled).
 
I also agree with a large turbo and the FP3x cams, my mechanic is running them and they are great. My buddy is doing a 2.3 build right now and he wend with DKS 280/280 cams. Not to sure how long they will last because they weld on metal and regrind them. Ive heard of web cams completly grinding down in the motor, which I hope dont happen to the DKS. They are cheaper but not as aggressive as the FP3x(.430 intake lift). My mechanic had a horror story from FP. They sent him the cams and they ground the exhuast cam as a intake and the intake was an exhuast cam. Needless to say FP almost ruined a very expensive 2.4 race motor. They pretty much gave him free cams after that.
 
so many different turbos:confused: do i want fp3's or fp3x's do they require dual valve springs or will crower's take care of that. Which is better dsm link or AEM EMS i know dsmlink is user friendly and AEM EMS is alot harder but with a over 5k build you might as well right?
 
With the big cams I would dual valve springs. If you want to go smaller like 280s than crowers are fine. Lighter valves would also be a good idea, they have less chance to float and less chance to break something. Go with DSMlink you wont be dissapointed.
 
i wouldnt recommend that crank pulley have heard bad stories about them on 4g63s and the cam gears are only going to be worth while if you actually dyno tune them.
Definitly get the fp3 cams in there before you put that thing on the road so you can utiliza the full power of the stroker. Your going to have a awsome set up, and considering that you said you never ever driven a dsm before, your going to be in for one hell of a first ride..... I hope your brakes, and suspension are up to par with that engine because even with awd you will be having a little fight getting safe control of the car if your running a lot of boost on that 2.3 with the gt35r.... Good luck !
 
And another little thing. If you can get the blow thru setup, I heard from some people that it does helps a little bit with a spool up. Oh, I'm about to build my 2.3 also, and I was wondering what gap should I have the machine shop make? I also have the wiseco's 8.8
 
just remember you 1g guys with stock timing maps on 8:8 compression pistons, your stock timing maps are for 7:8 compression ( especially with the harsh 1g timing maps which peaks in the 20s ) and 8:8 is a big jump believe it or not, enough of a jump to cause knocking at even 12- 14 lbs of boost.... Get link/ or a custom keydiver chip to deal with this problem as I have ( hence 2g pistons ) or else you will knock easily. Trust me.... ( This is for those who didnt know about this. )
 
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