Which clutch [Merged 3-9] what clutch best

[rayden]

ok i am going to get a new clutch for my car. i was wandering which one i should go with. i was thinking of the act 2100. Dont think i want the 2600 because it is a daily driven car and will only go to the track a couple times a year. if there are some other brands you all would suggest let me know. i want a good streetable clutch for a cheap budget.

 

[DSSA]

when replacing your clutch i'd recommend an OEM throwout bearing, and possibly looking at replacing the pivot ball/shift fork. have your flywheel checked to make sure the step is still within specifications as well.

on another note. its safe to drive, probably just sounds really obnoxious from the exhaust leak, and the more your clutch slips, the more wear you'll have on your flywheel..

ACT supplies the stock T/O bearing with their kits (and has for the last 3+ years). No need to buy another.

The great thing about ACT is that they're very in-touch with the market in general---if by chance there is a small error, they're also the ones to correct it as quickly as possible.

Absolutely great company who makes products that they can stand behind!

 

[HaZ]

ACT supplies the stock T/O bearing with their kits (and has for the last 3+ years). No need to buy another.

The great thing about ACT is that they're very in-touch with the market in general---if by chance there is a small error, they're also the ones to correct it as quickly as possible.

Absolutely great company who makes products that they can stand behind!

wow good to know thank you guys for all your help this website really is indispensable

 

[HondaGuywithDSM]

Need some help please on my 95 GSX

Originally my master clutch went out so went ahead replaced that. few days after that I was driving up the mountain and noticed when I would step on the gas the RPMs would jump but MPH would slightly climb. I stopped and could smell burning clutch. I tried to drive off again and the car would not move at all. I would put the car in 1st gear let out the clutch and give it gas, the car would not move. I would also put the car in first and reverse fully let go the clutch with no gas and the car would not move or die. So my sister drove up and picked me up with her truck. Surprisingly I was able to drive the car onto the trailer and back off when at home. I bought the car 4 months ago and the previous owner had the engine replaced along with the clutch in Oct of 07.

I understand my clutch needs to be replaced but my questions are...

How could the clutch go out so quickly ? I bought it from an older lady and trust that she didn't abuse/race/drive the car hard.

What clutch and fly wheel should I get ? I might as well replace the flywheel while I have the tranny apart. This car will be my daily driver and will see very little if any track days. I want a clutch and fly wheel that will be comfortable for daily driver but with some higher HP support. I do plan on doing a few mods. I guess I want a street/race clutch more torward street.

I understand I need a pressure plate and release bearing also. Should I just stick with stock on these ?

Sorry this is just a newbie question tahts why I am posting here. I have never had to replace a clutch on any of my cars before so I don't have any experience with this subjet.

Thank you for your help.

 

[RadDsm]

ACT2100 or fidanza 2.1

 

[greyspyder117]

Hey i am doing at this very moment a clutch on a 91 GSX and i also did the gaskets to the transfer case. There's two of them. Other then the flywheel and the bearing you should be fine. Ohh in my car i have seen alot of bolts that didn't look as strong as i would have like them to (stripped threads,head) so i replace them to.

 

[greyspyder117]

When you buy your clutch most of the time the pressure plate comes with it but thought i mention it anyways replace that too

 

[Jeff99GS]

You might have it adjusted wrong which would cause slipage. If you were slipping all the way up a mountain then you likely over heated the clutch and glazed it.

When you install the new clutch make sure you have it properly adjusted.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/249840-how-clutch-hydraulics-work-adjusting-your-clutch-killing-pump-up.html

 

[HondaGuywithDSM]

thanks to everoyone for all your input.

Looks like the Act 2100 with the stock TOB will be the best for me. It should come with the pressure plate.I'll look into the gaskets for the transfer case.

Last two questions,

Which flywheel ?

Jeff, that makes complete sense. I didn't continue driving to far up the mountain. I pulled over as soon as I knew something was wrong. I guess it wouldn't hurt to go back and adjust the pedal correctly and see if it works.. Any input on that or should I not bother at all ?

 

[gurmanator]

if its a daily driver then resurface the flywheel,its pretty durable.have the preasure plate and disk in hand when you go to the machine shop so they can resurface it to spec.

 

[luv2rallye]

2g's use a special clutch adjustment proceedure. Your pivot ball may also need shimming. View those videos here: Transmission Videos.
Replacing clutch fork is always a good idea as they wear where the pivot ball mates which changes fork position.

 

[No_Skillz]

thanks to everoyone for all your input.

Looks like the Act 2100 with the stock TOB will be the best for me. It should come with the pressure plate.I'll look into the gaskets for the transfer case.

Last two questions,

Which flywheel ?

Jeff, that makes complete sense. I didn't continue driving to far up the mountain. I pulled over as soon as I knew something was wrong. I guess it wouldn't hurt to go back and adjust the pedal correctly and see if it works.. Any input on that or should I not bother at all ?

Definitely try adjusting it before you buy anything. Get underneath the dash, loosen the locking nut on the clutch pedal, and adjust the master cylinder rod away from the firewall and into the pedal assembly.

Keep in mind that engagement should be approx. 1" off of the floor with full engagement 1" away from the top of the pedal travel. It sounds like you tried to adjust the pedal to engage near the top like a honda and encountered the dreaded pump-up phenomenon. That would explain the reason why you could move your car after letting it sit a bit - hydraulic pressure was relieved and things returned to normal.

 

[Jeff99GS]

2g's use a special clutch adjustment proceedure. Your pivot ball may also need shimming. View those videos here: Transmission Videos.
Replacing clutch fork is always a good idea as they wear where the pivot ball mates which changes fork position.

Ha, Thanks man...these are the videos I was lookin for to share with HondaGuyWith DSM
Very informative!

 

[spawn87]

well the previous owner probably replaced the clutch with an oem part...im sorry but the stock clutches on our cars suck also they probly didnt readjust the pressure to compensate for the new disk.

as for aftermarket i want with COMPETITION CLUTCH brand got the stg2 kit with their flywheel and im loving it it comes with a disk style clutch bearing hit and it has a 2700lb pressure plate...

just remember that if you want it to be easy on the road go with a disk style clutch as for selection is up to you

 

[SeaveeDSM]

My Competition Clutch Ironman 1680 6-puck style clutch appears to be dead

The shop that does my work says based on the symptoms and description of what happened that it sounds like the pressure plate or disc have failed. After a very strong pull while in third gear I could not push in the clutch and could feel a distinct vibration through the peddle when I tried to push it in. The hydraulics check out fine. They'll know for sure when they take the car down next week. That clutch had just 9 months and about 5K miles on it of NON-track driving, albeit some aggressive pulls from 15+ mph rolls here and there The Competition Clutch only has a 90 day warranty so I'm SOL there. Regardless, based on what to me is a premature failure I will NOT put another one of those in- EVER.

I've read alot of the bad pub on the ACT 2600 clutches (lots of good stuff too) but am now wary of those too.

I am making approximately 320 HP at the wheels on my daily driver '98 GST and thats about where she'll stay as far as power for the foreseeable future. Oh, with whatever new clutch I put in I am putting in brand new Mitsu OEM: flywheel and ring, throwout bearing, clutch fork, new flywheel and new crank bolts. The rest of my mods are at the bottom of this post. Within the last 3 months I put in a new clutch master and slave cylinders and the clutch hydraulic lines are all sound.

I've pretty much narrowed down my disc and pressure plate choices to either the Clutchmasters FX300 OR their FX400.
Clutchmasters.com - High Performance Clutches and Flywheels

FX300:
2200-2500 lb pressure plate, segmented kevlar disc:

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FX400:
2200-2500 lb pressure plate, 6 puck ceramic disc:

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After first getting the IronMan 1680 6-puck design - transitioning from stock clutch and power - I had a bit of chatter engaging from a dead stop in first gear. I "fixed" it with the prothane inserts on the front/rear mounts combined with simply getting used to using the new clutch after about 2 weeks driving.

I think the FX400 will "feel" more like what I am now used to - even as a daily driver. Wifey does not like it but even for her its still driveable on the rare ocassion she drives it.

Of course the FX300 will be closer to stock in feel but I am very worried about slipping.

I am just torn as to which one to pick.

I'm at the upper range of power for the FX300 but in the lower range of power for the FX400, sacrificing maybe some daily driver comfort if I go with the latter.

Still, I'm leaning strongly for the FX400....

Which would you guys recommend?

MODS Summary of my car: '98 GST, 2.0 engine stock internals, 5 spd, Quaife LSD & Competition Ironman clutch, DSMLINK, AEM Uego, Forced Performance 18G turbo at 18 PSI, FP cast racing exhaust manifold, EVO III o2 sensor housing, direct wired Walbro 255, FIC 950cc inj, Injen air intake, stock MAS, Greddy FMIC, Greddy RS BOV, Hallman MBC, Aeromotive FPR, custom 3" downpipe, cat delete, Greddy EVO2 3" exhaust, Fluidyne Radiator w 2 12" & 2 10" fans, 18" rims, 225/40 Nexxen 5000 tires, eibach springs, tokico illumina shocks

 

[Tyeler18]

if your making over 320whp i would go with the 400, the 300 is too much of a street disc and will more than likely not hold up as well

the 300 will be nicer to drive, but your probably going to be replacing it often if you are making 300+ hp a 6 puc would be better for anything higher power and better to beat on

 

[RyAn007]

I to have to say go with the 400, it is the one which will be able to handle your power output, the 300 will be gone in no time.

 

[95GSXCO]

I would say if you got the money buy a twin disk and be done with it. You never know it could be another 2 months and you will want more HP

 

[toofast82]

Id say the fx400 instead of fx300. but a twin disc will last through anything youre throwing at it but they are noisy

 

[viperlp01]

He is only fwd and only 320hp. It is up to you. Do you want a chattery 6 puck or a smooth street disc. Im not dissing you hp numbers either.. I would rather have a less grabby clutch in a fwd so you don't break her loose that much...

 

[andy4g63]

If you plan on keeping that GST/FWD car, don't wait give Maperformance a call. Twin disks for FWD are $ 700, instead of $1100. It is worth, whatever money you have to spend over the FX-3/400...

 

[SeaveeDSM]

If you plan on keeping that GST/FWD car, don't wait give Maperformance a call. Twin disks for FWD are $ 700, instead of $1100. It is worth, whatever money you have to spend over the FX-3/400...

I have a 7-bolt motor, not a 6-bolt and there is nothing listed at maperformance.com in the way of a twin disc setup for it anyway....

 

[nfernotalon]

Dont buy Fidanza I just took my tranny out and after 2months of the 4puck Kevlar clutch, the springs pretty much fell out!

 

[wishnfor4g63T]

i have a ACT 2600 6 puck with stock flywheel. I've been driving it for about 6 months now. No hard launches yet but the clutch is wonderful after about 2 months of breaking it in. TBH it was a PAIN the first cpl months it was like a light switch either on or off. Now i have a little play and can rev and easily pull it out onto the road without any hesitation.

I haven't had any problems out of it however i am AWD. I'd almost imagine that you would get the tirings spining out of first but hey atleast you won't have any more problems out of it. Anyhow my vote goes with ACT a name you can trust.

 

[1_2befast]

I would go with the 6 puck for sure if it was AWD. Since I have never dealt with FWD I am not too sure, but if it were my car I would still put in the 6 puck. Worst case, you have to change your driving style.

 

[roc11111]

The FX400 gets my vote, because I'm sure you might be looking for more power later down the road.