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Which clutch [Merged 3-9] what clutch best

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rayden

20+ Year Contributor
137
0
Apr 15, 2002
ok i am going to get a new clutch for my car. i was wandering which one i should go with. i was thinking of the act 2100. Dont think i want the 2600 because it is a daily driven car and will only go to the track a couple times a year. if there are some other brands you all would suggest let me know. i want a good streetable clutch for a cheap budget.
 
Hey I have the ACT 2600. LOVE IT! Mine has been in for quite some time now and I have got some hard launches out of it. And I mean crazy hard launches. Still holds up. So I know other people it went out there first launch then others have had it forever and it still is good. So if I had a say in it get a ACT 2600. Then get a fidenza ultra light flywheel. They are like heaven. I have one and the clutch is so I guess short. Very little distance for it to engage. Plus who can argue with a litte weight reduction?:)
 
STAY AWAY FROM THE PUCK!!!!!

Not only do you not need it, you will regret it. They are just way too grabby. Don't take anyone's advice to use a puck disk unless they have had one themselves. Not just drove one in a friends car, but actually had one in their own DD. I know it sounds like a good idea, that is why I bought one. But after also owning ACT 2600 and 2900 pp with street disks, I will never use a puck again. There is just no comparison.

Also, I am surprised no one has mentioned that puck clutches are also harder on your transmission. It may only be marginal, but it is not like transmissions are cheap.
 
If keeping that power level & running street tires either one of those clutches shouldn't have any trouble holding the power your making. Everyones got to remember, he's fwd & won't have the same clutch requirements as an awd. Personally I ran a Centerforce Dual Friction, the car made 410 whp on its daily tune last summer, probably has about 50 track passes on it & around 30K & it still holds great. Only time I started to push its limits was this past sumer at the track when I switched to Hoosier Drag radials. With them, I could launch the car pretty hard without the tires spinning. The CFDF still never slipped but I could smell clutch after the runs. I was told their rated at 375 ft/lbs (at the motor) & my car was making 353 ft/lbs at the wheels on the street tune, so probably right around 375 ft/lbs to the wheels at the track.
 
This is what im running in my car and it takes the beating well and you cant go wrong with the price.! I drive this clutch every day to school and back and to my job. such an easy clutch to drive. My friends dove my car and could not belive how nice it is. Perfect pedal pressher. I highly recommend this clutch.:thumb:


eBay Motors: XTD® STAGE 4 CLUTCH KIT -ECLIPSE /TALON /LASER TURBO (item 200293572033 end time Jan-09-09 13:08:13 PST)

I agree I used to have this clutch and loved it. Deff check this one out.
 
STAY AWAY FROM THE PUCK!!!!!

Not only do you not need it, you will regret it. They are just way too grabby. Don't take anyone's advice to use a puck disk unless they have had one themselves. Not just drove one in a friends car, but actually had one in their own DD. I know it sounds like a good idea, that is why I bought one. But after also owning ACT 2600 and 2900 pp with street disks, I will never use a puck again. There is just no comparison.

Also, I am surprised no one has mentioned that puck clutches are also harder on your transmission. It may only be marginal, but it is not like transmissions are cheap.

The pucks do grab A LOT more than the standard disc. They are a racing style clutch, launch clutch really, you can use them but they are just have a ton more grip to them.
 
The type of clutch you want to use depends all on your hp goals and what you intend on using your car for. If you just want a daily driver with mild mods then a 2100 will do. As for the bolts, get a new set of OEM turbo bolts, exhaust manifold nuts, and gasket.
There is no danger driving like this other than a bunch of noise and eventually your engine/engine bay will get black from the exhaust leak over time.
 
The act 2100 is a good clutch, there are so many out there that it is a big decision. The exedy stage 1 or 2 is fine for your HP level. Look on here at the vendors and deals and that should answer alot of your quetions. You do not need a full out clutch yet as your level is mild. A stock type (feel) clutch will suffice. Brands: act, exedy, slowboy, clutchmasters, daiken, mitsu, just to name a few options
 
I am getting ready to buy another dsm. 95 TSI AWD talon w/ 6 bolt. The clutch is getting ready to go so the guy I am buying from knocked off 400 for a clutch. It had a ACT in it, but I don't really have any experience buying or choosing what clutch I need. Thinking ACT 2600 or equivalent but you with more expertise can help me. The car has 16g, 550 injectors, wally 255, afc, fmic, and a few other mods. I plan on it being a daily driver, and may take it to the track a few times a year. Please give me some suggestions on brands and models would be best for me!
 
With your set up a ACT 2100 street disc should be ok for your dd, and occasional track purposes. The ACT 2600 may be a great disk, and is is but the 2100 would be great for your every day use.
 
I would suggest the same, but NO to Fidanza. They seem to break very often without even hard launches. There is a thread for Fidanza's clutches here. It is started from 99gst racer/username/. Check it out. Otherwise, ACT 2600 with 6puck sprung disk.
 
Ok a guy in my local DSM club has a ACT 2600 clutch and pp with no more than 1000 miles. It is a good deal so do you think I would be safe putting it in?
 
Ok a guy in my local DSM club has a ACT 2600 clutch and pp with no more than 1000 miles. It is a good deal so do you think I would be safe putting it in?

Do it. Honestly the 2600 is great for a daily, I have used the 2600 for the past 4 years in my daily dsm. The pedal feel isnt bad at all and is very easy to get used to and very forgiving, plus you'll have that little bit extra for additional power down the road. When using a puck disc on a daily is when it gets a bit uncomfortable for daily driving. Pick up the 2600 with the street disc and enjoy
 
If you get a good deal on the used 2600 then go for it, but I don't like buying a used clutch. Just make sure you get the flywheel resurfaced (or buy a new one) and replace the throwout bearing, pivot ball, fork. It's not a bad idea to replace the slave/master cylinders as well.
 
just recently ive realized my clutch is just about shot. i know what i need to do to fix it myself. i just needed to know if getting a stage one clutch kit would be alright for my car. i talked to my father about it and he wants me to get a stock replacement. he says if i get teh stage one kit its not gonna work.. i really dont see why. but it is my choice and if i can get some good responses out of this id appreciate it. i drive a '95 GS. any recommendations?

thanks.
 
You can look at it this way. If you stay competely stock, an upgraded clutch will have a longer life than a stock replacement. Even though, clutches last a very long time (on a stock daily driver that isn't abused). The upgraded clutch will give you a better feel in the pedal, also. Only thing is that the upgraded clutch is going to cost you more than the O.E.M (unless you're having this done at the Dealership, then you're going to be paying WAY too much for the clutch/labor).
 
You never know what you MAY want to do in the future. So I'd grab an aftermarket clutch like an ACT 2100. You can go a step up for the 2600 but if you get stuck in traffic and gotta shift a lot for more than 45 minutes your leg will start to feel the burn :)

Tom

PS: I saw in your profile you wanna get an injen intake as your first mod. I suggest you don't bother with that as your first mod because you will see no increase in performance. I suggest you do the free mods first Tech Guide: 2G 4G63t Upgrades: Stage 0 Power - DSMtuners and then get a boost gauge, boost controller, bov, then exhaust.
 
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