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Resolved Which bearing is this?

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MTillard

10+ Year Contributor
50
0
Nov 20, 2011
Holland, Michigan
Just got an awesome low mileage and low rust 96 2g with an engine issue. Previous owner said car was running and then made an awful noise so he shut it off. When it was running it sounded like marbles in the engine.

I pulled the pan and looked for signs of loose or busted rods, and found witness marks on both balance shafts next to cyl 3. Then, I saw a poor little bearing hanging up between the rear BS and block wall.

Is this a balance shaft bearing? I couldn't feel excessive play in any of the rods, or see any signs of an exited bearing on the main bearings. I'll probably replace all the gaskets on this engine and replace crankshaft bearings.

Another thing I noticed is that the alternator fuse (100A) was blown, and there is a large (4ga or so) wire disconnected that I'm assuming ran a former sub or something. Battery was dead due to no alternator. DAPO.

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Solution
Probably a BS bearing. I would install a balance shaft eliminator kit while youre in the engine as well.

Try replacing the fuse and see if it blows again. If it does you have another problem somewhere.
Just about ready to start it up. Fill with coolant, attach ground, that's it for now. It will live tonight!

I still need to get new tires for this bastard, but I think I found a great set of used GST rims with wheels to get me through winter. That also will give me time to clean the talon wheels and get them powder coated or something fancy.

Glad to see another car is coming back to life around this area LOL

Hey im a hop skip and a rock throw away from holland there i got a set of decent rims and good tires i can sell you?

Just send me a PM
 
Starter was dead, she no turn over. Pull in solenoid was kicking on though, and I could hear it moving. Tried the tappity-tap-tap with a hammer but no dice. Sometimes it works!

I have a long work day today, from 8am - 8pm so I will attack it after that.

<edit> double post. thanks, internets.
 
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Battery is fine, I checked that too. It doesn't drop like it would if the battery was low/dead, or if the motor was siezed. My guess is that the motor or switch is rusted or broken open.

Previous owner put in some ugly high-intensity whatever blue tint bulbs for headlamps. They are hideous.

PS - Might be picking up a 2gb talon front bumper. Sweet sweet awesomeness.

Got it running last night. Haven't set the timing, but it ran really smooth. I was surprised how fast it light up when I first turned it over with empty fuel rails and all, it was beautiful.

Eagle Talon TSi AWD First Start Up - YouTube

The Bad: I think I have a timing pulley rubbing on the lower or middle timing cover. Cooling fans didn't turn on, have to track that down. I haven't done a boost leak test yet, so I didn't push the car into positive pressure territory.


PS - This yellow color is freaking ugly. It will be painted black in the spring.
 
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Picked up a set of gst wheels with a good set of tires, seller also had a 2gb talon fascia. Awesome!
 
Was doing boost leak test, found a leak at the PCV check valve, took it off to clean it, put it back on, and valve cover cracked like it was waiting to fall apart. Balls.

I mixed up some Metalset A4 and spoozed it on, but who knows how long that will hold. It got cold out last night, so I'm only hoping it is cured tonight.

Filling the trans, t-case and rear diff without a hand-pump? Retarded. Do yourself a favor and get a pump.

Got the car all put together and on the ground. Accidentally connected battery with reverse polarity for about 2 seconds before I realized WTF was I doing. See, I thought I was smart for a little bit, but last night's mix-up proved me wrong.

Went to start it up and it ran incredibly rough, and pig rich. I either fried the ECU, have bad wiring at the MAF sensor connector (or roasted it), blew a fuse, or something else I'm not considering. I have a 3G MAF on hand, just waiting on the connector to splice it in. I checked ECU with EVOscan, it seemed to talk but couldn't get any DTC's to come up.

Anyone out there as stupid as me and have a similar experience?
 
Ok. Nothing is roasted from the reverse polarity incident.

Figured out the insanely rich symptom. I had loosened my J-pipe to move something or other around, and forgotten to tighten it back up. The reason it would run fine for the first few minutes is because I think the turbo wasn't spinning freely. Once I gave it some throttle, it would break free and then would pull air, which led the AFR to be so rich.

Now it runs super lean under load and stalls. I suspect fuel filter or MAP sensor. Will be replacing both tonight, and replacing MAP with GM 3 bar. This punk better run.
 
The reason it would run fine for the first few minutes is because I think the turbo wasn't spinning freely. Once I gave it some throttle, it would break free and then would pull air, which led the AFR to be so rich.

If this is truly the case, it needs to be addressed. Check your turbo for shaft-play and for any contact the compressor wheel may have had.
I think it'd be better for you and your car if the reason the car ran smoothly at first is more related to load, rpm, temperature and sealing surfaces instead of a turbo that likes to seize and un-seize.

I hope you get the stalling sorted out.
 
Turbo is not seized, ignore me there.

I know I have multiple issues to repair at this point. VSS needs to be fixed or replaced. Small leaks in the IC piping that need to be fixed. Plugs are wired in firing order of 95/96. (Don't know why I did that.) Bad MDP.

Question about the MDP. I've got a GM 3 bar MAP sensor and I'm wondering if I just wire in the GM MAP to the same input, or do I need to scale the input. I've got an arduino lying around that would do the job nicely.
 
You would need to rescale the GM MAP to match the MDP's output. Even then, it still may not work since the MDP most likely has a much higher resolution than the GM.

Id just get a new one, they arent expensive
 
Well. I'm stumped. Keeps stalling out, after running for a minute or two.

BLT is good, vacuum is good. Only thing I can see amiss is O2 sensor? Seems to be pegged at 5V. I know it's a good sensor, I put a new one in. (Upstream)

Please take a look at my log and tell me if there's anything that sticks out to you guys. Much appreciated.
 

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Got a new ECM to try out, I believe I fried that. I have a new MAP sensor to swap in, will see if that helps too. Been away in FL for vacay, it was awesome.
 
Switched out ECU, runs the same. Found out front 02 signal is reading at bat voltage, not sure why. It's either a short somewhere or the sensor is bad, even though it's brand new. I'll track this down this weekend yet.

If I unplug the MAF, it runs fine. So possibly the MAF is bad. AFR gauge reads about where it needs to be too. So that's a good sign, of sorts.

Also noticed, is that if I peg the throttle, it stumbles at around 2200 RPM and AFR is at 10.0. Not sure if that is a spark thing, or something else. I'm assuming it's the plugs. I'll try and get new ones in it. I hope the coils aren't bad, those ####ers are expensive.
 
Backprobed pins at O2 sensor and at ECU with a DVM. It's the only way to really know what's up.

Forgot to add: I added new ground wires to chassis and engine.
 
Correct. My harness was chopped up a little bit, so whoever had it apart last might have done some bad or incorrect splicing. I wouldn't be surprised.
 
It had a SAFC in the loop, so I know the harness was cut for those wires. I also noticed the upstream HO2S was cut (land left open) and I'm assuming now I know why.

Still need to track down the short in the wire. The ground was broken at GND 10, and when I fixed that, the front O2 now reads 4.977V or something like that. Getting closer every day. Good freakin thing, it's getting cold out, and the wifey wants BACK IN THE GARAGE.

Edit: Can someone confirm that the engine runs in open loop when MAF is unplugged?
 
I'm not 100% if the MAF even needs to be plugged in during closed loop since the computer doesn't even look at that particular value for an AFR in CL. Assuming engine is warmed up, it primarily uses the front 02 for AFR correction so I would THINK unplugging the MAF at idle wouldn't effect anything or make it go into open loop.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong
 
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Subscribed to the thread. This is awesome. My experience that unplugging the MAF at idle makes it idle like crap.
 
Success! I got it driveable, at least.

So I was trying to find the short in the wiring, and was checking continuity on the wires, turns out I had the O2 sensor plugged into the (what I think) A-32 "front wiring harness and control wiring harness combination"

In any case, it now runs much closer to what it should, and was able to drive around. The AFR was a little lean, around 0.5 overall, but it was still fun.

I took it for a spin down to the nearest Shell for some good old 93, but they were closed, so I drove another mile or two to the next closest Shell.

When I got there, I got rid of the stationary and NLTS rev limiters, since my clutch switch isn't spliced into the ECU yet. I went to start it back up and *click* goes the starter. F. It's like 1am, the wifey is dead asleep and I don't want to have to walk the 3 miles in the cold back home. I waited for about 3 minutes to see if the starter windings would behave, but no deal. So I then started looking around for small hills to pop-start the beotch. Sure enough, worked like a charm. So I then drove home and wound out (most of the way) 3rd gear right before I got home. I really like the increasing torque curve, it makes it feel like there's just more and more acceleration. Anyways, still small stuff to get fixed, but my baby's on the road now.

I'll continue to post about tuning and getting the AFR's where they need to be. I'll take some car pictures with all of it's incredibly disgusting colors soon.
 
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