Resolved Which bearing is this?

[MTillard]

Just got an awesome low mileage and low rust 96 2g with an engine issue. Previous owner said car was running and then made an awful noise so he shut it off. When it was running it sounded like marbles in the engine.

I pulled the pan and looked for signs of loose or busted rods, and found witness marks on both balance shafts next to cyl 3. Then, I saw a poor little bearing hanging up between the rear BS and block wall.

Is this a balance shaft bearing? I couldn't feel excessive play in any of the rods, or see any signs of an exited bearing on the main bearings. I'll probably replace all the gaskets on this engine and replace crankshaft bearings.

Another thing I noticed is that the alternator fuse (100A) was blown, and there is a large (4ga or so) wire disconnected that I'm assuming ran a former sub or something. Battery was dead due to no alternator. DAPO.

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[2GbTalonGuy]

Probably a BS bearing. I would install a balance shaft eliminator kit while youre in the engine as well.

Try replacing the fuse and see if it blows again. If it does you have another problem somewhere.

 

[MTillard]

Thanks, just looking for a little confirmation with my suspicions as this is my first 4g63 engine. I'll keep this post updated and notify when resolved.

 

[MTillard]

Replaced the alt fuse, surprise everything electrical works again.

Also a bummer, this engine was removed previously, and whoever did it did a piss poor job. The knock sensor is crimped back together without a splice for the ground, lots of bolts missing/broken, various vacuum hoses disconnected or torn and not fixed. I just hope this engine is not totally trashed due to a shitty rebuild.

I can't find what size to drill out the relief valve on the oil pump to lower the pressure after a BSD. Anyone?

 

[bryanwheat]

There is no specific size. You just need to look at a picture and do something similar with a die grinder or dremil.

 

[MTillard]

Well crap. Took apart bottom end and cyl 1 spun rod bearing, and the rest are tore up. Oil pump is also trashed from the balance shaft spinning when it threw a bearing.

So far I'm looking at doing a new/reconditioned crank, new rod and oil pump. I haven't yet tore into the top end, I fear it is just as bad. I also didn't look at the cylinder walls. Too depressed to find more damage.

Anyone use JDM import motors?

 

[DSM1G90]

I have a JDM VR4 motor in my Laser. Well pleased with the results.

 

[MTillard]

To follow up with my previous posts, I did replace the alt fuse and didn't blow it when I plugged the battery back in. So either the aftermarket sub amp blew it, or the fact that there were cables poorly crimped onto a connector on the alt output blew the amp.

I am really surprised to have found so much half-ass work done on this car. About 90% of the engine bolts were finger to maybe hand-tight. Holy shit. There's a piece of intercooler pipe that was replaced with...exhaust pipe. Tons of bolts were missing or only threaded in a few threads on the engine. Scary crap.

I sent the engine out to a local shop and they got me a new crankshaft, reconditioned the rods, honed the cylinder walls, and cleaned out the block.

I'm hoping to get the engine back together and see how this thing runs. I probably have to rebuild the turbo, since there is mucho shaft play, indicative of thrust bearing wear. I bet this engine ran low on oil, then self destructed.

Forgot to add, head looks fine. Needs a little cleaning up, but nothing a little elbow grease and carefully placed degreaser won't fix.

I'm using an MLS gasket, (Fel-Pro, of course) anyone have terrible experiences with these verses typical sammich gaskets?

 

[BogusSVO]

With any MLS The HG surfaces need to be perfect on both the block and head.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...-deck-4g63-cast-iron-block.html#post152790451

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html



Once you get the block and crank home, you need to clean them both.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/362154-how-final-wash-engine-block.html

 

[MTillard]

I'm also a machinist, and I have access to a few haas 3-axis mills. I know I could do a head job no problem, but I'm not sure I could fit the block on the table.


Is it a problem of straightness or surface roughness? I can grab a straight edge and feeler gauge out both surfaces before doing anything.


My current job has me running a 5-axis mill. Cool as sh#t to see it run 5-axis moves.

 

[MTillard]

I've just about got the engine back together after having the crank replaced, rods fixed, etc etc.

I pulled of the quarter panel to see if I had keyless locks and found the FCC ID to be GQ43VT8R, and not the more common GQ43VT6T. Will remotes for the 6T work on the 8R? I'm assuming not. Anyone know where to find remotes for the 8R receiver? I'm having no luck finding them.

 

[MTillard]

Been too busy at work and home to do anything with the car. Got some Evo8 injectors and a flashable ECU to go with the 16g on the car.

Hoping to take some time off and get this thing together and tearing down the road!

Side note- got a spare head, and I will be getting it scanned into Solidworks, where I can simulate head flow and what changes in the port geometry will do. Will probably do a port job on the 5-axis mill at work in the next few months on the spare head, then do it to mine. Woohoo!

 

[MTillard]

Bought some 550 injectors, flashable 99 ecu and a tactrix to tune with openecu. Waiting anxiously for everything to arrive.

 

[MTillard]

Going to put a 1G CAS on the 2G head. Anyone have problems with the optical sensors? They're quite a bit cheaper than the hall effect black tops.

 

[NHerron]

No they work fine. Make sure to solder, heat shrink and shielding wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Have you read how to adapt the 1g cas to the 95-96 specific 2g's?

 

[MTillard]

Yes, but I'll be running a 99 reflashed ECU, so I just have to wire up to the crank input as on RRE's page.

RRE Instructions

If there's a difference in wiring (injectors, perhaps) between the 96 and 97, I have both service manuals so I will double check that too.

 

[NHerron]

Gotcha. You should be golden then, with that ECU

 

[MTillard]

Electrical question.

Should I be able to communicate with my ECU without the engine out of the car? Tactrix Openport 2.0, running ECUflash and EVOscan.

I also wasn't seeing power on a few pins on the ECU, but I don't remember which ones. I will have to reply with the pin numbers later tonight.

 

[Rsawd95dsm]

You mean with the engine out of the car? It should as long as theres a battery but the ecu wont pick up on some sensor if they are disconnected

 

[MTillard]

I figured out my power problem. Fuse tangs were loose, causing intermittent connections. That was fun to disassemble and bend all the tabs. Stabbed myself in the thumb real good.

Also read ROM from ECU and reflashed with Ceddy mods and all kinds of goodies.

Now I just need to put my engine and car back together to actually use the ECU!

 

[MTillard]

Engine is back together, clutch, trans all mated up. Did some welding on the trans dust shield and trans plate, they were in a couple pieces each.

Just need to drop it back into the car and put some interior back together.

It seems I am missing front wheel well liners. I'm assuming any trim level will work.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Correct.


Nice little thread you've got goin' here! Kinda flies by the radar..

 

[MTillard]

Pictures would take make it worth reading by anyone else but me, but nothing I have done is worth that kind of effort.

I'm hoping to start working on the head port project in the near future, so you bet your ass there will be pictures of all of that. MMM technology...

 

[MTillard]

Got the engine and trans back in the car last night. Very thankful for the jacks and engine hoists I now own. It's nice to have the right tools for the job.

Wifey is out of town for the next two days, so that will hinder my daytime progress on the car. I can always work when my little man is asleep, so there are short windows of opportunity when the sun is up, but plenty of time at night!

Hoping to get the engine wired back up, and maybe even running this weekend. It's a goal, probably not reasonable, but ya gotta aim high.

I am thinking of making a mold for the 2gb talon front bumpers. They really do look cool. I wonder if anyone would be interested in buying repros.

 

[MTillard]

Just about ready to start it up. Fill with coolant, attach ground, that's it for now. It will live tonight!

I still need to get new tires for this bastard, but I think I found a great set of used GST rims with wheels to get me through winter. That also will give me time to clean the talon wheels and get them powder coated or something fancy.