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What exhaust? + lots of other questions

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Chaos52

Probationary Member
12
0
Jun 30, 2009
Caro, Michigan
Ok first to explain why I'm asking this -

My immediate upgrade plans -
Full exhaust system - tubular manifold, o2 housing, downpipe and catback.
Crank up the stock turbo to 16psi

However, someday in the future I want to be able to bolt as much of these parts as possible on to a GSX with bigger turbo. (I have a GST with stock turbo)

Can I get a manifold and o2 housing that is compatible with my future turbo?

Whats the difference between 16G, 20G, Garrett, T3 etc?

For the future - what turbo would give me the highest possible performance for the street?

Thanks, Joe
 
The exhaust system is run differently on gsx's and gst's, and as far as the turbo, what are your goals?

Yeah, I know I won't be able to use most of the pipe. As for the turbo, I would just want the one that will give me the most street legal power. Also, acceleration/launch would be key, not top end. Hence the AWD. I don't need to be going 200mph on the highway :)

But, all that is years in the future, what I need to know is about the manifold and o2 housing. I just would like to plan ahead and hopefully save me some $$ in the future.
 
I would just go with a 16g on the stock manifold and port it, this is one of the best turbos in my opinion for the street.
 
All turbos are "street legal power". What kind of HP do you want to make and what rpm range do you want to stay at. Is it going to be a DD or going to track? I would say an Evo316G, Holset HX35, 50-trim.

Even on the t-25 you are using now, you shouldn't go over 15psi on stock fuel without upgrading and tuning.

The only thing you will be able to take from the FWD to the AWD exhaust wise is just the manifold, o2 housing, catalitic converter and the muffler itself. NONE of the piping will fit.
 
All turbos are "street legal power". What kind of HP do you want to make and what rpm range do you want to stay at. Is it going to be a DD or going to track? I would say an Evo316G, Holset HX35, 50-trim.

Even on the t-25 you are using now, you shouldn't go over 15psi on stock fuel without upgrading and tuning.

The only thing you will be able to take from the FWD to the AWD exhaust wise is just the manifold, o2 housing, catalitic converter and the muffler itself. NONE of the piping will fit.


Ok... It would be an occasional daily driver. Definitely not a racer.

HP - 400 I guess? I'm pretty new to this, so I don't know what RPM range

Is the Evo316G the "Big 16g"? It sounds like that's the turbo for me. Now, the 16G will bolt to stock manifold and o2 housing with the right kit, correct?
So, if I buy a tubular mani and o2 housing that fits my current setup, I can upgrade the turbo with no problem?

Also, why port it and not get a tubular?


Thank you all for the help!
Joe

PS - yeah, I don't have the money to upgrade fuel or turbo with this car. (college) but cranking up the boost to the max would be fun, and get my feet wet for future tuning
 
Ok... It would be an occasional daily driver. Definitely not a racer.

HP - 400 I guess? I'm pretty new to this, so I don't know what RPM range

Is the Evo316G the "Big 16g"? It sounds like that's the turbo for me. Now, the 16G will bolt to stock manifold and o2 housing with the right kit, correct?
So, if I buy a tubular mani and o2 housing that fits my current setup, I can upgrade the turbo with no problem?

Also, why port it and not get a tubular?


Thank you all for the help!
Joe

PS - yeah, I don't have the money to upgrade fuel or turbo with this car. (college) but cranking up the boost to the max would be fun, and get my feet wet for future tuning

The RPM range I meant is when would you like to be hitting boost. The bigger the turbo the later the boost (lag). The E316G will spool faster than the HX35 but the Hx35 will be easier to hit the 400 mark.

No, there are 3 16gs; small, big and Evo3. If you purchace one, DO NOT get the ebay turbo. MHI turbos do not have "turbocharger" written on them and the ebay turbo for the evo3 16g will have "GT" on it as well. Those equal garbage.

The 16g is a direct replacement on a 1g car but on the 2g you will need a j-pipe, oil feed line and oil drain. You do NOT need a new manifold as the 2g manifold is good for 400-500 (I think) HP. The porting is port matching the gasket to allow more flow through.

If you must upgrade, the tubular manifolds are more prone to cracking if they are cheaply made (cheap prices usually) and raise the underhood temps. signifigantly.

The cast manifolds are heavier but are more durable. They are less prone to cracking, cheaper in price and can still look nice. The Forced Performance race manifold is a great replacement manifold.

There is also the ERL manifold which is cast but a tubular design. It's a T3 flange however and will need a T3 flanged turbo which the 16g is not. A HX35 with a T3 housing would work on that or you can get the BEP bolt on housing to use the stock manifold.

The o2 housing won't cause any problems with bolting on. If you get the Evo3 o2 housing, you may have a slight fitment issue to the downpipe as the flange on the o2 housing is at a slight angle. The E3 o2 housing being cast, can be ported out and be ported out more than the 2g housing up to around 3 inches ID.

Before getting a new turbo, upgrade your fuel and follow the upgrade path. More fuel now will allow for a better tune even with the T-25 and you will be safe for when you do get a new turbo and not be limited to running lower boost than what you are now due to the difference of airflow.

Remember, maintenance and repairs before upgrade.
 
Thanks so much for your help. That answers a lot of questions for me.

I'm definately rethinking my plans for this summer. Maybe hard pipe intake, port the manifold and turn up the boost instead of messing with the exhaust. As you said, follow the upgrade plans.

Will have to give it some thought.

THANK YOU
 
Upgrading your fuel system HAS to be one of first things you do before you up the boost. If you don't, you're going to end up running lean and destroying your motor :nono:

Ok, so you're saying that I should replace the fuel pump before turning up the boost. Can you elaborate on why you would upgrade fuel before boost, when the upgrade paths have fuel listed later?
 
You need to upgrade the fuel system first if you want to eventually make around 400hp. Larger injectors and a larger pump along with a fuel pressure regulator. Do these upgrades properly and you will only have to buy injectors once. You can use a piggyback to take out or add fuel as needed for your boost level.

Why fuel before boost? If you turn up the boost and don't have the fuel to support that amount of airflow, you will run lean and damage/destroy your motor via detonation. If you upgrade your fuel system first, the fuel will be there, you will just have to tune its delivery to get maximum performance.

If you wan't to turn up the boost, my first recommendation would be to purchase a wideband. They are everywhere nowadays so there is no reason not to have one. This way you will always know you are in the safe zone. I wouldn't touch my boost levels without a wideband.
 
Yes, fuel before new turo (after stock size) is always a good thing. If you only go to a 16g variant, you can turn the boost up to 14psi and still be fine. Anything more than that and you are starving the cylinders for fuel because the injectors can't handle too much, the fuel pump isn't pumping enough fuel and the ECU is only programed for a certain amount of fuel/boost.

As I was stating before, once you fix what we talked about, you can drive your car perfectly fine. I am still going to say upgrade your fuel system however to maximize your potential and future upgrades. If you go the SAFC route, you can only goto a max of 750cc injectors before the tuning becomes a lot harder/impossible. You'll also need a logger and a wideband o2 (Innovate LC-1). If you go with ECMLink or Jackle, you can tune for reletivatly any size injector. Same goes with chip burning.

Just remember, follow the upgrade path located on the "tech" drop down window. Your first mod and one and what I consider a repair/maintaince is putting in an accurate boost gague so you know what PSI you are running. I do believe everything is all answered for you now. Let us know is there is anything else.
 
Any manifold and o2 housing that will bolt to your stock turbo will also bolt to any other turbo that uses the same style of exhaust housing (i.e. Mitsu TDo5h). These include: 14b, s16g, b16g, E316g, as well as a number of hybrid turbos such as FP's SCM series and the new-ish HTA-68, the time honored 20g, and the bolt-on Garret lineup from BEP. These turbos run the gambit from stock power levels up to well over 400whp potential so you've got options. But, IMHO a tubular manifold is not indicated until you get well past the 16g range, particularly if you're more interested in torque then hp, so I'd wait on that one and use the money for supporting mods instead.
 
Look at the month. I think the op made is decision...

Anyways this is what happens when the op's don't post resolve or something!!!
And to add benefit to the cause. Sounds like the t25 will be all he needs. You can net low 14's with this turbo. That's enough for street power!

I apologize for not closing this thread. I actually sold the car in the spring. :cry:
Someday in the future I hope to have a nice GSX. (HX35 with the BEP hot side :p )
In the mean time I'm restoring a '69 Charger :D
Thanks everyone for your help. I've learned a LOT from this site.

-Joe
 
is there power to be gained when you switch to a 2.5 tubulat o2 housing on a big 16g?
 
is there power to be gained when you switch to a 2.5 tubulat o2 housing on a big 16g?

Tubular o2 housings and manifolds are only applicable for racing. They cannot stand the extended extreme heat of a daily driver car and will eventually disintegrate. As for power-gains, you wouldn't see any notable difference between the tubular and the cast o2 housing. My suggestion would be to port your existing cast manifold and o2 housing and put 3" turbo-back exhaust on it. That will make a big difference.

Please don't post on this thread anymore, as it is marked "resolved"

-Joe
 
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