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what do i need to do to make 300-325 hp?

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First there is the upgrade path check it out, you have a lot to do, tuning devices, fuel wideband, basics the 14b get something bigger, i would look at build threads lots of information on your question.

Tech Guide - DSMtuners

costs start with basics, things you need to have.
 
You need.. to do a lot of reading and research. Most people will not hit 300fwhp, let alone 300awhp on a 14B. Especially in the stock 6cm2 housing.

Seriously, this is not to be snarky or a dick. While those numbers sound common, there is still a good deal of learning, time and money involved.

You will need to look for a 16G sized turbo, prices on these are going through the roof at the moment, so good luck with that. Do not buy one off eBay, you will regret it. Try to find one used and have it rebuilt by someone reputable.

JusMX141 on here is the go to guy around here, and he supports the community and commits time here. Help support those that support us and give him the business.

You wasted your money in buying a BOV. Sell it, and stick with the stock 1G bypass valve and keep it recirculated as long as you are on the stock MAS.

What do you mean when you say headers/exhaust? You have nothing listed in your profile. Did you buy a manifold that can accept the stock MHI turbine inlet flange? Did you buy a downpipe that connects to the turbine discharge? Do you have a full turbo back exhaust? If yes how large?

Or did you just put a fart can on the back?

You will need at minimum a Wideband UEGO sensor and gauge/controller. ~$200-220

You will need a fuel pump, at least 190lph and larger injectors. ~$90 for the pump, ~$50-$300 depending on which injectors you choose.

You will need a way to tune the car for the added airflow and requisite fuel. There are several options.

The single best mod you could make before changing anything would be to buy ECMLink V3 lite, and then have a bung for a Wideband UEGO put in. Then buy, install and log a UEGO from group like AEM, Innovate, PLX, Zeitronix or similar.

ECMLink Lite goes for $425 at the moment, plus socketing for your ECU, provided it is an EPROM which you or they can look up. Expect to pay more if your ECU is not EPROM or needs repair.

You will have to pay to play in order to do this right. Don't cheap out. If you can't afford the price of entry don't do it. You will regret it.
 
Yeah its already on and idk I bought the car with it on and the exhaust which is a magnaflow and yes its recirced

Another question is what does heat wrap do? I already searched and it was unclear
 
Don't worry about heatwrap at the moment. It keeps underhood temps down and more heat in the exhaust system. Heat is what spools turbos and allows them to recapture wasted energy from combustion.

You don't really need it for a turbo that size, but it doesnt hurt I would do it after you have already got all the other necessary bits.. You can see my divided T4 manifold is wrapped in my profile. The entire side exit 5" exhaust pipe I'm having fabbed as we speak will be wrapped as well.
 
DSMlink, Wideband, e316g, boost controller, and a good tune...

A e316g isnt exactly a great idea right now. They cost as much as my FP Green did brand new.. Now worth it at all.

Oh and Landspeed. You forgot an AFPR. Always a good idea.
 
A e316g isnt exactly a great idea right now. They cost as much as my FP Green did brand new.. Now worth it at all.

Oh and Landspeed. You forgot an AFPR. Always a good idea.

I would tend to agree with this^^ and would go one step farther to suggest a gauge should be mounted on the AFPR where provisioned or on an adapter fitting at the rail!

But usually not an issues until you step up to a 255lph. Everyone's setup has its own quirks though and it is possible you could overrun the stock FPR on a 190.

Good Call!
 
14b is possible for 300whp. People here have done it and with Evo 560cc injectors you won't run out of fuel. 190 walbro pump or Evo viii/ix pump will be fine and you don't need a afpr because it won't overrun yor fuel system. Set of 264/264 cams if you want a either ecmlink lite or you can use a logger,wide band and safe to tune with.
-shane
 
You could do it on stock 1G "D" and "F" cams as well, because a 14B even in a 7cm housing is gonna fall on its face with or without a stock intake manifold in the way. Will make a ton of torque though.

Some cam gears would let you squeeze every last ounce out of it.

The stock SMIC should be enough, it does heatsoak fast though.

I have often used a large FMIC with 14B/16Gs in spite of friends and others protesting to say 'teh response n lag will be teh sux0rs" picked up some power from lower IATs and never really noticed any downsides to it

Maybe its because I only use efficient/low drop cores...

At the end of next season, I anticipate putting the 14B back on my current setup for shiggles and seeing how it does with a big 4.5" garrett core, 3"-2.75" hardpipes, JMF intake, port/polish/blended head and some big bumpsticks with the RTM dumped O2 housing and 3" open downpipe i keep handy for such occasions.
 
I dont want it to run on its last leg I want a reliable set up not it may or may not fail today set up..something that can be built on 300 HP is a good starting point though?

Can you explain more about heat soaking and cores?
 
I dont want it to run on its last leg I want a reliable set up not it may or may not fail today set up..something that can be built on 300 HP is a good starting point though?

Can you explain more about heat soaking and cores?

I am not sure what you are asking or stating in the first part of the post but with regard to heat soak..

Compressed air, even on an efficient compressor gets very warm. This is going to be dependent on the PR and inlet temperature/PR as well as where on the compressor map you are using at a given point in time.

The air/air charge coolers used by most here take ambient air passing over it to pull the heat out of the aluminum fins between the bars on the outside to pull the heat from fins inside the core.

The capacity to remove heat is limited as function of this process and the constraints of the SA on the inside and outside of the core, as well as the style of the fins on the inside/outside as well as material properties.

A smaller less efficient core is going to have a harder time shedding this heat, then a bigger more efficient core. Over time the whole thing just becomes very warm and cannot keep up with demand, which we refer to as heatsoaking.

Loss of power and knock tend to ensue.

Typically you want to match the charge cooler to the applications demands, and the SMIC would be able to deal with 300awhp worth of air for short periods of time, but IATs would continually rise unless you give it adequate time between pulls.

Even then there will be diminishing returns on subsequent runs unless the core is sprayed(using evaporative cooling on the outside or chemical intercooling on the inside) or left to cool off back to ambient.

So it all depends on use and other parameters of your system.
 
Tuning set up first then you can add things as you get loser to your goal, take your time and get, things as you can. Make it a goal but dont expect to get there so soon, its a learning process, as far as tuning and the mods to get YOU to your goal.
 
After reading your other thread, it seems like you do not actually have the car yet.

Before worry about modding any car not currently in your possession, you should find out what is potentially wrong with it and do all the maintainence first.

Especially if this is a requirement as DD for work/school.

Almost any car, even when modded can be reliable. You just have to do it right and not be cheap or cut corners.

The WRX and MS3 will require more time and money to make fast, but I would wager both have less wear and tear than a 20 year old potentailly used and abused DSM.

I would go for the DSM, as I have had more than a couple over the years and they are easy as hell to work on and modify. Support is phenomenal for these cars even 20 years on.

Just pick what fits your needs.
 
Don't worry about heatwrap at the moment. It keeps underhood temps down and more heat in the exhaust system. Heat is what spools turbos and allows them to recapture wasted energy from combustion.

You don't really need it for a turbo that size, but it doesnt hurt I would do it after you have already got all the other necessary bits.. You can see my divided T4 manifold is wrapped in my profile. The entire side exit 5" exhaust pipe I'm having fabbed as we speak will be wrapped as well.

Nice car and mine also has a split manifold but just stock turbo would heat wrap make it more reliable? Or anything?

Yes I don't have the car in my posession yet the reason I say like I do is just to get people past the fact I am looking to modify a car I don't have but I'm picking it up tomarrow. I decided to go dsm not wrx or ms3 I love any dsm with Passion gotta be one of my favorite cars. People my age say I'm crazy but really they are for wanting an impractical car like a veyron
 
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