What did you do to your DSM today?

[90 TSI FWD]

I had my last drive in the talon for the year yesterday. I was getting on the highway after lunch, accelerated in 3rd, then the head gasket blew when the boost peaked. Beautiful white cloud followed behind me. She lasted a good 13 years since I rebuilt the motor. The stock head gasket didn’t like 35psi .

I’ve got other priorities at the moment, so I’ll be DSMless for the next year. But you can bet all the “might as well” stuff will be done while the motor is apart! Might as well increase the displacement. Might as well get a SMIM. Might as well redo the suspension and change all the bushings. Might as well paint the engine bay. Might as well just have the whole car repainted. Might as well redo the wiring harness. Might as well get a dogbox??

Project “might as well” may have its build thread starting next year. I’ll have to get my DSM fill reading everyone’s posts on this forum and watching YouTube videos

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[USDMJDMStyle]

So I was trying to mess around and get the car started today, and I noticed that underneath the center console by the clutch pedal and clutch pedal switch underneath it’s a little toggle switch.

There’s also one for the brake toggle switch and there’s one for the gas pedal too. I believe another toggle switch OK my problem is on the car. I can’t really see and take a picture of it so I’m using this generic photo I found on Google of the same issue in the photo. I post here.

You see that little thing I circled in red it’s like bluish or purple. It’s like a plug or something that sits inside recessed inside the pedal to help stop the pedal against the switch when it comes to arrest. recessed inside the pedal to help stop the pedal against the switch when it comes to a resting spot stationary.

How can I find or get that piece replaced is like a little bushing or something that goes into the pedal that when you press the pedal down the pedal goes to the floor you release it. It comes back up and it’s supposed to stop on that purple thing that I circled in the picture and Red. It’s like some plastic rubbery thing. Mine is straight through. There’s a hole and nothing there to stop it how can I fix and replace that?

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[pauleyman]

How can I find or get that piece replaced is like a little bushing or something that goes into the pedal that when you press the pedal down the pedal goes to the floor you release it. It comes back up and it’s supposed to stop on that purple thing that I circled in the picture and Red. It’s like some plastic rubbery thing. Mine is straight through. There’s a hole and nothing there to stop it how can I fix and replace that?

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Read this.

Resolved - 2g brake and clutch pedal grommet hack

I have a 1995 Eclipse GSX with 5k miles that sat in a garage for 25 years. I started having brake lights staying on and eventually the cruise control not engaging. I found the blue grommets on the pedals had dry rotted and crumbled leaving just the mounting hole. After reviewing several posts...

www.dsmtuners.com

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Drove car to work today! Then took coworker for a ride to his house to pick up this cheapo pdr kit to let me use. Had to let him feel it compared to last timr he rode in it before upgrades. he wasn't ready (in my Kevin Hart voice still fine tuning but gonna start on paint and body soon.

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Not sure if you friend is an actual pdr tech or just has the tool, so thought id throw you a warning so you dont find out the hard way about using a mini lifter. Great tool when you learn control. When I would do hail, i would use just a spot of glue and was able to pull hail dents up level instead of high spotting. However, if you use too much glue while trying to lift metal that is on the stiffer side(like the a-pillars/roof rails areas) and the glue pug grips really tight, it will raise the dent in the center, but depress the metal where the feet are in order to compensate for the metal being pulled into the high spot created under the glue tab. I usually take a microfiber towel or two and double it up under the feet so that the downward force get spread out and less likely to depress the metal. The rubber padding under the feet dont help much. If its on a panel that has more flex to it then you dont have to worry much.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

Not sure if you friend is an actual pdr tech or just has the tool, so thought id throw you a warning so you dont find out the hard way about using a mini lifter. Great tool when you learn control. When I would do hail, i would use just a spot of glue and was able to pull hail dents up level instead of high spotting. However, if you use too much glue while trying to lift metal that is on the stiffer side(like the a-pillars/roof rails areas) and the glue pug grips really tight, it will raise the dent in the center, but depress the metal where the feet are in order to compensate for the metal being pulled into the high spot created under the glue tab. I usually take a microfiber towel or two and double it up under the feet so that the downward force get spread out and less likely to depress the metal. The rubber padding under the feet dont help much. If its on a panel that has more flex to it then you dont have to worry much.

Lol hes definitely not a pdr guy. We had a bad hail storm bout a year and a half ago and he bought it to try and fix a couple dings in his car. He never used it so i asked him to let me try on mine. Most of its on the trunk lid and a couple on the hood. Figured id try this before filling with bondo when its time for paint. Smart thing to do would be replace my trunk lid with a clean one and paint it with car but im stubborn and hard headed

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Lol hes definitely not a pdr guy. We had a bad hail storm bout a year and a half ago and he bought it to try and fix a couple dings in his car. He never used it so i asked him to let me try on mine. Most of its on the trunk lid and a couple on the hood. Figured id try this before filling with bondo when its time for paint. Smart thing to do would be replace my trunk lid with a clean one and paint it with car but im stubborn and hard headed

Pulling the dent up is the easy part, knocking the high spots down so that the metal is level is the part that takes skill. The metal on dsms is very thin compared to most cars especially compared to domestic cars. The less glue you use, the better. You might have to start really small just to test how well iits gonna stick. Been out of the PDR game for about 8 years so things have probably changed but if the glue is black or any other color than white or yellowish white....use even less of it cause that colored glue makes a super tight bond and youll quickly notice that youve pulled up a Mt. Everest sized petrusion.

Hood and the trunk, you probably wont need to worry about using a towel for the feet.

 

[MacMarty15221]

So I was trying to mess around and get the car started today, and I noticed that underneath the center console by the clutch pedal and clutch pedal switch underneath it’s a little toggle switch.

There’s also one for the brake toggle switch and there’s one for the gas pedal too. I believe another toggle switch OK my problem is on the car. I can’t really see and take a picture of it so I’m using this generic photo I found on Google of the same issue in the photo. I post here.

You see that little thing I circled in red it’s like bluish or purple. It’s like a plug or something that sits inside recessed inside the pedal to help stop the pedal against the switch when it comes to arrest. recessed inside the pedal to help stop the pedal against the switch when it comes to a resting spot stationary.

How can I find or get that piece replaced is like a little bushing or something that goes into the pedal that when you press the pedal down the pedal goes to the floor you release it. It comes back up and it’s supposed to stop on that purple thing that I circled in the picture and Red. It’s like some plastic rubbery thing. Mine is straight through. There’s a hole and nothing there to stop it how can I fix and replace that?

Seems like something we ought to be able to 3Dprint, in (flexible) TPU plastic. (Reaches for calipers)

 

[steve]

Seems like something we ought to be able to 3Dprint, in (flexible) TPU plastic.

Pretty easily, just have to pick a good shore hardness so it won't wear out quickly or damage the switch.

 

[enriquez2000]

Pretty easily, just have to pick a good shore hardness so it won't wear out quickly or damage the switch.

Maybe someone already does?

Mitsubishi Eclipse '90-'12 Clutch Pedal Stop

Replace worn out or missing clutch limit pads, made from a durable elastomer. These parts are designed to replace the original parts for the clutch pedal. Each purchase comes with two parts.Fits Mitsubishi Eclipse years 1990 - 2012.

www.apolloinnovate.com

 

[curt-s]

Pretty easily, just have to pick a good shore hardness so it won't wear out quickly or damage the switch.

I've got 95A coming that I'm going to be doing some testing/playing around with for various parts... But @enriquez2000's set for $13usd is well priced.
The biggest concern is layer adhesion.

Me I'd probably find some rubbery caps/furniture protectors and a tube, and glue them together

 

[chrisman287]

Replaced these incorrect suspension bolts. One was stripped

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[pagosa dsm]

pressure washed the underside of the car.

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[Bigmike4g63t]

Got the rear main seal, starter plate, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate installed today

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

Had some fun with a lambo while out yesterday

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[curt-s]

Got the rear main seal, starter plate, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate installed today

How do your pressure plate fingers look? Did you measure flywheel step-to-block on both your new and your old? Just asking for the reasons of fork positioning in window which is still a WTF topic. Trying to gather data

 

[Bigmike4g63t]

Yea, Marty reminded me to as well. I did. I made notes. Seemed to be in recommended area. I can't remember offhand what it was which is why I make notes. Lol My memory sucks on anything not dealing with money.

Headed to church currently.

 

[pksystems]

Continued pulling apart my dash. All my extra gauges are making it a real pita. And then I got to the tweeters.....

Do these look factory?

I saw a video of the dash removal, and he said they have a quick disconnect fitting, which I see, but it looks like it's been bypassed, unless there is a clip buried under that foam????

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[curt-s]

Yea, Marty reminded me to as well. I did. I made notes. Seemed to be in recommended area. I can't remember offhand what it was which is why I make notes. Lol My memory sucks on anything not dealing with money.

Headed to church currently.

Probably step height (.609ish) but what I'm trying to figure is top of step to block itself. The less distance there is, the more the fork end will settle to the left of center. Same thing with flatness of pp fingers ,which can be caused by an overly thick clutch disc. That will wear down a bit in time but so many variables will dictate shimming needs.

Even though my fork sits an itty bit right of center, it still disengages right off the top. It doesn't even start to grab until my pedal is three quarters up off the floor. my slave can be compressed by hand, so I'm not getting pump up.

Clutches are sometimes funny and when we mix aftermarket parts all over the place, things go crazy quick

 

[USDMJDMStyle]

I got a quick question. Does anybody know where I can get a replacement cap for this? it’s circled in red. The cap looks like it’s blue or something. It’s for the clutch pedal underneath the dash there’s a little hole on the top of the pedal and this little plug sits inside of it. Mine is not there so when I put the pedal down, it comes back up and it goes right through the hole. There’s a trigger switch there that controls the clutch pedal.

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[Bigmike4g63t]

Continued pulling apart my dash. All my extra gauges are making it a real pita. And then I got to the tweeters.....

Do these look factory?

I saw a video of the dash removal, and he said they have a quick disconnect fitting, which I see, but it looks like it's been bypassed, unless there is a clip buried under that foam????

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I would say from what I see that they look stock. After my car is back on road I will address my sounds. I did replace the head unit with a Bluetooth double din and replaced the door speakers with some cheapish ones bc they didn't work at all. I will be going the Kicker route as usual as on all the cars I normally do. Occasionally I will use Rockford Fosgate.

 

[pauleyman]

I got a quick question. Does anybody know where I can get a replacement cap for this? it’s circled in red. The cap looks like it’s blue or something. It’s for the clutch pedal underneath the dash there’s a little hole on the top of the pedal and this little plug sits inside of it. Mine is not there so when I put the pedal down, it comes back up and it goes right through the hole. There’s a trigger switch there that controls the clutch pedal.

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I gave you the part number in this thread yesterday.

 

[99dsmer4g63]

@pksystems there is indeed a clip under that foam IIRC.

-Daniel

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I moved all of my "retirement" projects away from damaging trees (one took out the glass of the Laser hatch, I have it covered tho). Fk those trees. I moved 2 trailers and put THEM in the "danger zone". The Blue GSX has a frozen front drivers rotor so I left it out so I can take it apart to get it put with the other cars. This is where all the DSMs are hiding.....

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[cswindel]

@curt-s shoot man i commend you for the data collection! We need someone to do it haha. Im about to throw on the clutch and flywheel assembly but unfortuntely i dont have the right tools to take measurements. Won't be of much help sadly but even more sad for my over analytical/note taking self but I can't wait any longer for this 2 year project to finally be driving. Shame on me I guess but I am also running out of time. Hopefully nothing bad will happen without verifying

 

[pksystems]

@pksystems there is indeed a clip under that foam IIRC.

-Daniel

I just cut them out, and then scrubbed off the foam with wire brush. Yep, there is a push clip hiding under the foam.

Tested them with my computer speakers, they both still work. I think I'll add like 6" of extra wire and some spade connectors.