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I got a quick question. Does anybody know where I can get a replacement cap for this? it’s circled in red. The cap looks like it’s blue or something. It’s for the clutch pedal underneath the dash there’s a little hole on the top of the pedal and this little plug sits inside of it. Mine is not there so when I put the pedal down, it comes back up and it goes right through the hole. There’s a trigger switch there that controls the clutch pedal.

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The switch doesn't control your clutch pedal. In fact, most of us disable it by disconnecting it so that the clutch isn't required to be depressed to the start the engine.

However, the stop does prevent metal to metal banging, switch thread against pedal assembly. A link to a 3d printed version was provided to you earlier. If you're looking for OEM, try JNZ Tuning. Josh might be able to source one.
 
Man, did you sanded the surface under paint ? If not, whatever color start peeling off very quickly, even from plastic side skirt without plastic primer… and when tape something, do it with glass panels, wheels, etc… simply cover everything you dont want to be painted by mistake… im not professional, but i did many jobs and after years still holds together
I'm still wet sanding the entire vehicle, filling in door dings, etc. The parts that have been primed have been sanded underneath the primer. I'm ordering a new rear bumper (97-99) cover, and both front fenders, so I'm not worried about any overspray that may get on the existing ones. The new fenders and bumper cover will be painted off the car. I'm definitely taping off everything that I don't want paint to get paint on.

I spent about an hour trying to figure out why my idle wasn't consistent between 750-850. It turns out that the throttle cable is dragging on something under the hood, it simply needs to be replaced and rerouted. Prior to noticing the issue with the condition of the throttle cable, I adjusted the idle screw on the front of the throttle body as well as the base idle speed set screw. This did help lower the idle, of course.
The check engine light came on after ONLY adjusting the bisss. The vss has been replaced but the speedometer has never worked, this is the first time a code showed up. Wierd. I'm not sure what the PO125 code is, yet. I'll look into it tomorrow. I know it's something to do with fuel/air mixture and possibly an oxygen sensor issue.

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I always wanted an R/C plane growing up... Especially when i saw the jets...and thats my biggest setback from pursing that. Id want to go straight to the $1000+ jets and bypass the dinky little bi-planes that would let me learn how not to crash a jet on the first try, but my mind refuses to let me follow that logic. Ive become very good at recognizing my own shortcomings that would lead to blowing a lot of money before I even get started 😄
 
@pksystems You have to take the block box off that is under where the glove box would be. Take the black box out of the car and split it in half. Inside you will find the heater core.

-Daniel
Beat me to it... but remove this box

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Tried my hand at some.pdr today and realized I'm wasting my time LOL this thing has more dimples than a fat chick's butt cheeks. 😒🤷‍♂️ I guess it's gonna be a lot of filler used LOL probably not worth the time effort or money it's gonna take to make it pretty again but i don't care im doing it anyway. I hate oklahoma hail storms 😒
 
Finished doing a semi-wire tuck. Looks way better I think.


Before

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Now the attention is on the pipes. Right where I want them to be.

Once I get back from shopping I’ll pop the new outlander brakes on.
 

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Took delivery of some super prohibited sway bar links that got the attention of Canada Customs on entry. I wondered why the shipment was running late, turns out it's because some CBSA Agent was fondling my RoadNutz to make sure they won't be used inappropriately.

The RoadNutz (Viamoto UK) adjustable links are really nice, though. I'm genuinely surprised since the price was so much lower than Whiteline's adjustable links, so I think the Whiteline links are just hugely overpriced at this point. The CV boots look good too. Better than the low grade trash rubber boots from Rock Auto, but the same price (these buggers are hard to find).
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Canadian Customs: Would you care to explain why your car runs low 12's, but you seem to be running high 10's for the last hour?
"Just making sure we've taxed you appropriately on all that power"
I do know what they were looking for in the box, and I'm sorry to disappoint them. Their main job is to collect taxes though, and they do that admirably. My favorite (not) decision of theirs lately was to collect tax on ND state sales taxes paid when I get things shipped to the border. Gotta love taxes on taxes.
 
Started trying to remove the black box behind glove box so I can replace the heater core. This is the A/C cooler, and you won't be able to remove it unless you disconnect your A/C lines. No reason to disconnect it and then need to get it recharged.

Started removing everything on the center console so I can remove the actual heater core that is in the middle of the dash.
 
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After I got the injectors back from FIC(keep in mind they only charged me for a flow test), they got a clean bill of health. So I popped them in, fixed a few leaks with some new o-rings and started her up...to my amazement the idle is so much smoother now that I can actually lower idle RPM in Link to 750RPM! Down from 1100. This car refused to idle at anything below 1000 for the entirety of me owning it. Needless to say, I'm stoked.


Talking with FIC, part of their process is to remove the filter baskets at the top of the injector before they flow test them. I guess that must have been a restriction or a blockage there, because they idle better with NOTHING CHANGED than before and all they charged me for is a flow test, not a cleaning service. Couldn't be happier.

Fuel map and timing map needs some tweaking here because it did eventually die out after extended idling, but with some tweaks I think it'll purr.
 
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