The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

What did you do to your DSM today?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

flushed the coolant, washed the tank out, searched for a battery, replaced the fuel filter, researched which turbo i'm getting to replace the stock one for CA SMOG. Wondering if someone offers a ball bearing version of a 20G. looked up gs-t wheels. wondering how to start a wheel fitment competition thread for best wheels for a 2G. . . . .
 
First time ive taken my car for a drive since July.

Had a very unexpected falling out with the shop that Ive been working with for a few years back in May after they kept my car for 7 months. Not really trying to go into the story so i dont make myself bitter about it all over again since ive let it go. Car is back in my hands and have been fixing the issues on my own when I get time.

The initial ride home from picking up the car was not great but decent. Apparent that they didnt even take the car for a single test drive during those 7 months. Reversed into the garage and the car started to smoke real bad and went super rich on the wideband. Smelled raw fuel in the oil. Bought a fuel lab afpr because I questioned several times, why i was being told that i didnt need one.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Problem solved. (No, the fuel pressure isnt actually set to 24. :) )
Problem #2. Car was still starting up at 2200 rpms. Took off my throttle body and blocked off my FIAV.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Problem solved. Idle was better, cold started at like 1500rpms and moved down to around 900 which is what is set in ECMLink.

Problem #3. Clutch drag and hard to put into gear after driving for like 10 minutes. Clutch had been replaced at the shop when it failed with the car on the dyno. Was told that it wasnt dragging anymore because my last clutch was. I tested it and it wasnt dragging, but was short lived for some reason and didnt pass the drag test on my next drive. I put in the short stainless clutch line Ive had sitting around for years, adjusted the master cyl and bled the slave. Yay! More parts out of the garage. Did a quick test while parked in the garage and it didnt move.. Soooo... problem solved, but Im going to say TBD until i do it again.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

About halfway into the initial drive home and then after, there was this nasty creaking from the rear. Im glad they took care of the control arms and axles/seals for me after i saw what they had to do to get the old ones out. Was definitely not a job for an amateur like me. My old strut/spring setup was ancient. Good time to put on the coilovers ive had in garage, along with the brakes and lines while ive got everything off.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Left the car a little high knowing that it will sink a bit.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Problem solved. No more creaking, Halfway between hard/soft is a good ride so far.
BLT time. Checking the throttle body for leaks after reinstalling, exposed a major leak from the first injector. I considered taking a bath in all the bubbles it was making. Ordered seals from Extreme PSI, depressurized the fuel system and took off the fuel rail. Old rings at the top of injectors were disintegrating.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Plugged that leak... and then the leak in an intercooler coupler....and another coupler... and a third coupler...and a small one at the BOV.... and the J-pipe...makes me concerned that the shop tuned the car with all of these leaks. Id only driven it twice including bringing it home and stayed out of boost so cant imagine that these leaks appeared with the little driving Ive done. 🫤

Remaining issues Im tracking down:
1. After plugging the boost leaks, the car starts up at like 1100/1200 rpm. Seems low to me but maybe its just been that long since Ive started the car without a 2200 rpm start up that I dont remember what "normal" is.
2. Im rev hanging really bad during shifts. Im starting to narrow it down to the throttle cable used for the cruise control delete. Seems like its not tight enough at the pedal.
3. Dont think the guy that was tuning had an opportunity to finish everything since he was suppose to come back to do some last minute things, so would appreciate if someone could let me know what state the tune is in because all I have to go on is what the shop was telling me. Not sure if I should just completely start over on my own or try to continue with what he has going. Car is on SD, considering there were leaks and I added a afpr, not sure if what he has there is still relevant.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited:
First time ive taken my car for a drive since July.

Had a very unexpected falling out with the shop that Ive been working with for a few years back in May after they kept my car for 7 months. Not really trying to go into the story so i dont make myself bitter about it all over again since ive let it go. Car is back in my hands and have been fixing the issues on my own when I get time.

The initial ride home from picking up the car was not great but decent. Apparent that they didnt even take the car for a single test drive during those 7 months. Reversed into the garage and the car started to smoke real bad and went super rich on the wideband. Smelled raw fuel in the oil. Bought a fuel lab afpr because I questioned several times, why i was being told that i didnt need one.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Problem solved. (No, the fuel pressure isnt actually set to 24. :) )
Problem #2. Car was still starting up at 2200 rpms. Took off my throttle body and blocked off my FIAV.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Problem solved. Idle was better, cold started at like 1500rpms and moved down to around 900 which is what is set in ECMLink.

Problem #3. Clutch drag and hard to put into gear after driving for like 10 minutes. Clutch had been replaced at the shop when it failed with the car on the dyno. Was told that it wasnt dragging anymore because my last clutch was. I tested it and it wasnt dragging, but was short lived for some reason and didnt pass the drag test on my next drive. I put in the short stainless clutch line Ive had sitting around for years, adjusted the master cyl and bled the slave. Yay! More parts out of the garage. Did a quick test while parked in the garage and it didnt move.. Soooo... problem solved, but Im going to say TBD until i do it again.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

About halfway into the initial drive home and then after, there was this nasty creaking from the rear. Im glad they took care of the control arms and axles/seals for me after i saw what they had to do to get the old ones out. Was definitely not a job for an amateur like me. My old strut/spring setup was ancient. Good time to put on the coilovers ive had in garage, along with the brakes and lines while ive got everything off.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Left the car a little high knowing that it will sink a bit.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Problem solved. No more creaking, Halfway between hard/soft is a good ride so far.
BLT time. Checking the throttle body for leaks after reinstalling, exposed a major leak from the first injector. I considered taking a bath in all the bubbles it was making. Ordered seals from Extreme PSI, depressurized the fuel system and took off the fuel rail. Old rings at the top of injectors were disintegrating.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Plugged that leak... and then the leak in an intercooler coupler....and another coupler... and a third coupler...and a small one at the BOV.... and the J-pipe...makes me concerned that the shop tuned the car with all of these leaks. Id only driven it twice including bringing it home and stayed out of boost so cant imagine that these leaks appeared with the little driving Ive done. 🫤

Remaining issues Im tracking down:
1. After plugging the boost leaks, the car starts up at like 1100/1200 rpm. Seems low to me but maybe its just been that long since Ive started the car without a 2200 rpm start up that I dont remember what "normal" is.
2. Im rev hanging really bad during shifts. Im starting to narrow it down to the throttle cable used for the cruise control delete. Seems like its not tight enough at the pedal.
3. Dont think the guy that was tuning had an opportunity to finish everything since he was suppose to come back to do some last minute things, so would appreciate if someone could let me know what state the tune is in because all I have to go on is what the shop was telling me. Not sure if I should just completely start over on my own or try to continue with what he has going. Car is on SD, considering there were leaks and I added a afpr, not sure if what he has there is still relevant.


First thing I see is you don't have a wideband, MAP sensor, or IAT sensor assigned in your inputs. Is this a recent log? Start your own thread about the tune so we can help you more. This is intriguing!
 
First thing I see is you don't have a wideband, MAP sensor, or IAT sensor assigned in your inputs. Is this a recent log? Start your own thread about the tune so we can help you more. This is intriguing!

Thanks for taking a look.Yes, this is the most current that i have. I see what youre talking about the missing inputs in the miscellaneous tab, right?
Also noticed that my fuel trims are running rich and openLoopThreshold has been altered from stock values. Thought that was suppose to stay stock, but im no tuner... yet :)

I debated on making it a thread, but with my job and going in to winter in Chicagoland( I dont drive it in the winter), I didnt want to start something and waste peoples time if i wasnt able to be consistent, hence the general update and just an inquiry into where the overall tune stands. But since its still hovering around 60 degrees, im goiing to try and get some time away from work... maybe i can get it done before it snows.
 
Thanks for taking a look.Yes, this is the most current that i have. I see what youre talking about the missing inputs in the miscellaneous tab, right?
Also noticed that my fuel trims are running rich and openLoopThreshold has been altered from stock values. Thought that was suppose to stay stock, but im no tuner... yet :)

I debated on making it a thread, but with my job and going in to winter in Chicagoland( I dont drive it in the winter), I didnt want to start something and waste peoples time if i wasnt able to be consistent, hence the general update and just an inquiry into where the overall tune stands. But since its still hovering around 60 degrees, im goiing to try and get some time away from work... maybe i can get it done before it snows.


Eh, think of it this way, even if YOU don't use the advice right away someone in the future is gonna find the thread and the advice left will be very useful. Plus, once you get started it kind of snowballs and you'll get motivated to try stuff.

And the OL tables have definitely been messed with so that basically any throttle input over 4000rpm puts it in OL which ignores everything really. I'm curious how it even runs without a MAP Sensor hooked up/referencing boost. A bunch of stuff in the direct access tab has been changing. BaseThrottleTipIn, CrankingFuelAdjust, and etc.
 
Eh, think of it this way, even if YOU don't use the advice right away someone in the future is gonna find the thread and the advice left will be very useful. Plus, once you get started it kind of snowballs and you'll get motivated to try stuff.

And the OL tables have definitely been messed with so that basically any throttle input over 4000rpm puts it in OL which ignores everything really. I'm curious how it even runs without a MAP Sensor hooked up/referencing boost. A bunch of stuff in the direct access tab has been changing. BaseThrottleTipIn, CrankingFuelAdjust, and etc.
Yeah, not sure how it runs well without any of those inputs.. Overall, it idles fine and also drives fine except for the rev hang. But since i havent really tuned anything, I dont know what I dont know to be able to say things are... "fine" or "decent" are just a shot in the dark. Havent really gotten on the gas since I didnt know how complete the tune was. Didnt want to a find out the hard way if it were to go super lean or something. Hopefully, the winter holds off till the week of Thanksgiving. That might be my only opportunity to take the whole week off and dive into some of these things.
 
Last edited:
😡🤬 if it's not one thing it's another. More than likely self inflicted from jamming a paperclip in ports 1 and 4 in the obd2 plug trying to get into program mode (which failed). Now can't get connected to ecmlink. It did this last time i tried to get into program mode for keyless entry and i had to get in there under the dash and "tighten" the connector pin in the obd2 port and it worked again. This time it won't. It got dark so I couldn't really dig in deeper. I'm off Thursday so after appointment I'll see what I can see. Maybe I pushed the pin out of place or something. Ecmlink just says no response received.
 
Did a little wire re-routing and tucking. Also replaced my red intake coupler with a black one w/ t-bolt clamps, then finished by installing/mounting my catch can. Some quality black OEM style tubing is on the way, and I plan to run it under the pipes so they're more invisible/hidden. I want the focus on the UICP/Intake pipe, and not any of the wires or tubing. I have way more work planned for the IM/firewall area too, but for now...I'm happy.

Before

You must be logged in to view this image or video.



After!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


So much better. It was driving me crazy all the wires and clutter.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Did a little wire re-routing and tucking. Also replaced my red intake coupler with a black one w/ t-bolt clamps, then finished by installing/mounting my catch can. Some quality black OEM style tubing is on the way, and I plan to run it under the pipes so they're more invisible/hidden. I want the focus on the UICP/Intake pipe, and not any of the wires or tubing. I have way more work planned for the IM/firewall area too, but for now...I'm happy.

Before

You must be logged in to view this image or video.



After!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


So much better. It was driving me crazy all the wires and clutter.
Is that a tee off the bov line, sir? Your MAP sensor and your BOV are using the same hose?
That will cause a response delay to your sensor due to the fact that it either has to pressurize the rest of that hose and the top of the BOV "hat" and your MAP won't read correctly until it's all equalized, or evacuate it of air to cause vacuum and the same equalization must occur.

How much, well, maybe not much.. but a tee off your BOV is forbidden around these parts. Bad, sir, bad


Me, I need to do something. I'm going stir crazy and 3D prints take a long time, so i'm going to probably put all four new wheelies on and see how it looks. I'll store the car in the air and off the brand new rubber to dissuade against any flat spots. Give them a season until I don't care anymore LOL
 
Is that a tee off the bov line, sir? Your MAP sensor and your BOV are using the same hose?
That will cause a response delay to your sensor due to the fact that it either has to pressurize the rest of that hose and the top of the BOV "hat" and your MAP won't read correctly until it's all equalized, or evacuate it of air to cause vacuum and the same equalization must occur.

How much, well, maybe not much.. but a tee off your BOV is forbidden around these parts. Bad, sir, bad


Me, I need to do something. I'm going stir crazy and 3D prints take a long time, so i'm going to probably put all four new wheelies on and see how it looks. I'll store the car in the air and off the brand new rubber to dissuade against any flat spots. Give them a season until I don't care anymore LOL


I’m not afraid of you. I do what I want :p


But: I actually ran a dedicated line from intake to map sensor that was barely like 3” long back a little bit ago and it made zero difference to the tune or logs. I actually posted back to back logs without saying anything and no one pointed out any difference in the sensor readings between dedicated line and the current tee situation. The line running to the bov that tees into the map line is like 3mm in size so honestly compared to how big the map sensor line is it may not actually be all that big of a difference as far as pressure differential/volume goes.

So yeah. The day may come when I’ll pull the intake just to drill and tap new ports for bungs, but it is not this day! (LOTR reference!)
 
@curt-s

If he ran the pcv hose to the catch can like in the engine pic on your profile... Would that be a legit way to free up an extra port and not have to take the IM off or would it cause issues or too big of a port? Asking because im in a similar situation and dont have the time or motivation (Dont judge me) :)
 
Last edited:
@curt-s

If he ran the pcv hose to the catch can like in the engine pic on your profile... Would that be a legit way to free up an extra port and not have to take the IM off or would it cause issues or too big of a port? Asking because im in a similar situation and dont have the time or motivation (Dont judge me) :)
Not really as it looks to be a 2 port. If he plugs both into his valve cover, he won't circulate oil vapour through it and won't be solving crankcase pressure at all.
It would need to be a 3 port so that the remaining line could be plumbed to the intake pipe.

If that thingy on the top is a removable plug, you could put a 90 degree elbow in there and run a line to the intake. Then you could use both of the other two runs to the valve cover. I'd just make the top line larger in diameter than either of the lower two, so that you're getting closer to equal cross-sectional volume between the two "groups" of hoses.

I’m not afraid of you. I do what I want
You must be logged in to view this image or video.



But: I actually ran a dedicated line from intake to map sensor that was barely like 3” long back a little bit ago and it made zero difference to the tune or logs. I actually posted back to back logs without saying anything and no one pointed out any difference in the sensor readings between dedicated line and the current tee situation. The line running to the bov that tees into the map line is like 3mm in size so honestly compared to how big the map sensor line is it may not actually be all that big of a difference as far as pressure differential/volume goes.

So yeah. The day may come when I’ll pull the intake just to drill and tap new ports for bungs, but it is not this day! (LOTR reference!)
Well, if you're not experiencing any changes and your response is still good, then there ya go
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Now, if you were in a drifting or rally scenario where you have constant HUGE changes in throttle position, it may make the difference between sudden lean (or rich) spikes, but mooching around town is probably not nearly as problematic because we have lower throttle position deltas.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited:
The catch can is run in line from the hose that goes from VC to intake pipe. It doesn’t use both hoses from the VC. There’s a missing hose on the PCV valve because it was the wrong size and I’ve got the proper one ordered.
 
The catch can is run in line from the hose that goes from VC to intake pipe. It doesn’t use both hoses from the VC. There’s a missing hose on the PCV valve because it was the wrong size and I’ve got the proper one ordered.
Didn't think it was. The Q was could both hoses go to the can to free up the one normally used for PCV.
So you have it basically right, except without a can between vc and im, you're sucking oil vapour like factory

But you're blowing out at least when you're producing the most blowby.


Threw on the coil overs on the front and put the new wheels on.
I think I'm going to drop the front by a quarter inch and leave the rear for now as I set it

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Was randomly searching for photos of 2G carbon hood yesterday when I came across an ad on Offer Up for a Seibon Hood, slight damage in the gel coat but worth repairing for the price he was asking.

After borrowing a vehicle, renting a small trailer, 1.5 hr drive and 400$ later, I couldn't pass it up.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Drove car to work today! Then took coworker for a ride to his house to pick up this cheapo pdr kit to let me use. Had to let him feel it compared to last timr he rode in it before upgrades. 🤣🤣🤣 he wasn't ready (in my Kevin Hart voice 🤣🤣🤣 still fine tuning but gonna start on paint and body soon.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top