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What did you do to your DSM today?

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I'm not familiar with the Delrin Shifter kit. What's it suppose to improve?


Improve is a loose term. Supposedly the bronze/solid metal shifter bushings at the transmission can cause transmission damage(something to do with the forks I think) because there's no give to them, and the Delrin bushings are not metal, and allow for a tiny bit more "give" than metal, while also firming it up nice and tight.


That's if your transmission goes into gear.
 
Update to this thread, I did do one more thing.

Caressed it's hood and apologized to it for threatening it and losing my temper with it.


Problem turned out to be it has 1990 shifter cables in it. The control lever cable(left hand side in the cabin) is like 2" too short, so it only has reverse and neutral, but locks out all other gears as a result because it won't extend all the way forward like it should. With all the cables off, it has every gear butter smooth. With only the selector cable on, again it all moves and goes like it should. With both selector and control lever cables on, bam. Only fourth and neutral.


Sooooo yeah. Gonna buy it something nice as an apology. I've heard of people being in abusive relationship with DSMs...but I realize that I'm the abuser. Shit. :p LOL


Edit: Video if you're curious for a visual.

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Well finally got the undercoat on it got two coats on should do good. Picked up calipers from powder coat now to mail them to get rebuilt. Some parts came in waiting on some more and waiting for the rest of my subframe and pieces to get powder coated then assembly time 🤘🏻 also took off rear bumper and qtr glass molding getting it semi ready to head to paint after the underneath is done.

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Someone asked about the size of the vanity mirror lights in a thread last week and i ordered a set to test out for $10.

Personally i dont like the light distibution as they are quite hot, but they do fit. THey are a 3-SMD 5050

amazon

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God I want a GVR4 so bad. My daughter loves when I hit boost in the Edge, and she loves the DSM. Really don't want to ride dirty with her in the backseat and a car seat ain't gonna fit in the DSM rear seat. Lol. GVR4 would be perfect.

One day, maybe.
 
Installed my new red coated stainless brake lines and bled the brakes. Most were okay but holy cow did the driver's side rear caliper need it bad. I may keep an eye on it and do it again later because that fluid that came out was brown and sputtering. It eventually came clean-ish, but yeah.


I'm gonna let the hottest part of the day go by and hopefully..HOPEFULLY, install the turbo finally. Get everything ready to start.
 
I bet there's a BUNCH of us who had to give up our early DSMs over the car seat issue. I'm one.
Just put her in a tiny harness and hang her from the roll cage (must install one for safety purposes. )
 
:D

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:)

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(The lower heatshield fits better than pictures make it seem because it's loose and I had to do some strategic bending. But when you press it up like it's bolted in, it fits perfect. So happy with this!)
 
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God I want a GVR4 so bad. My daughter loves when I hit boost in the Edge, and she loves the DSM. Really don't want to ride dirty with her in the backseat and a car seat ain't gonna fit in the DSM rear seat. Lol. GVR4 would be perfect.

One day, maybe.
Man I have twin 6 year old girls myself and the old DSM is just not a good spot for car seats or booster seats I understand how you feel
 
Dropped the oil pan to find a pretty clean state.
feeler gauged my thrust bearing clearance. Somewhere between .003 and .004. bought a dial indicator and checked my gauge to find they are indeed accurate at .002, .003, .004. Will set up the indicator on the balancer tomorrow as a final confirmation but so far I'm pretty optimistic.

Motor is from a VR4 RS complete with 16g and Cyclone manifold, so it's possible it has pretty low mileage but I'm not 100% because the turbo had noticeable in/out play. I changed it out in favor of my own b16g but now will be a 68HTAv3 with JMFab o2 housing and MVS wastegate..
 
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Dial indicator showed .007-.0073 for crank endplay

I mean, that's still *ok. just not fantastic.
I now know the reason why the feeler gauges showed tighter.. on releasing the clutch, it returned to .004ish.

As a note, I stuck the base on the frame rail and aimed the feeler at the crown of the crank bolt. Zeroed out the gauge, had the wife press and hold the clutch all the way down. It settled at ~0.007
After she let off the clutch, it returned to .004, but I could tap the crank back to zero either with a light deadblow or my palm.
We did the test 3 or 4 times, and once offset at 0.001+ ending up with somewhere between .008 and .009. Every time I reset to 0, I got .007-.0073

So I'm assuming that's an accurate enough number.

*Edit LOL
 
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I was Today years old the first time I saw a DSM door switch with TWO wires. The prospect of getting all door-open functions working again in my car is mind-blowing. ( The body harness connector only has -one- pin in it, but that's an easy fix. )

I'll go out on a limb here. Given the rust problems that occur in that area, I predict that this is the kind of small-part unobtanium that future DSM restorers will go begging for. To me, sending a DSM shell to the shredder with this stuff still in it is a downright shame. There is a finite (and decreasing) number of them on this planet.

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I was Today years old the first time I saw a DSM door switch with TWO wires. The prospect of getting all door-open functions working again in my car is mind-blowing. ( The body harness only has -one- pin in it, but that's an easy fix. )

I'll go out on a limb here. Given the rust problems that occur in that area, I predict that this is the kind of small-part unobtanium that future DSM restorers will go begging for. To me, sending a DSM shell to the shredder with this stuff still in it is a downright shame. There is a finite (and decreasing) number of them on this planet.

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I grabbed a couple here.
 
Refurbished/reconditioned my windshield wiper arms, installed the turbo feed line in the OFH, removed the 90 ofh bypass spring, and pulled off my good VC so I can remove the flaky green paint and threw on my spare cracked/dirty AF VC so the head stays sealed from the elements while I paint the other one. Need to order some nylon brushes for my drill so I can speedily clean this VC without cutting marks into it all over. I want it to be smooth and nice.

But yeah, busy day. Now I just need to start tying up the loose ends. Can't wait to hear this thing run, man.
 
One of the previous owners of the gsx I just picked up decided to spray paint most of the tail lights and the back center piece so I've been wet sanding the paint off the best I can for right now.
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One of the previous owners of the gsx I just picked up decided to spray paint most of the tail lights and the back center piece so I've been wet sanding the paint off the best I can for right now.
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I've heard brake fluid or oven cleaner do a good job of removing paint without harming plastics. Haven't tried it though.
 
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